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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ont.
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O.K. I've been doing lots of reading and surfing so far regarding Full range drivers. I'd like to try a project that doesn't require me doing the math. Here is a list of my criteria.
1- Budget $500 Fostex drivers (167 or 206e maybe) 2- Proven design suitable for Newbie 3- Aesthetically pleasing! I'm more into something like a C&C ABBY , Martin King's, ML TQWT, something similar to a Hedlund Horn or tonight I saw something unique called a Replikon Horn. I prefer curves and or angles. Boxes don't appeal to me. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Germany
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The website of the makers of the Replikon horn:
http://www.klangform-akustik.de The Replikon is unique by having a BIG pressure chamber behind the driver. Look at this dialog, where Till Roemhild, one of the developers of the Replikon, suggests a horn for the Fostex FP 253: http://www.audiomap.de/forum/index.p...id/19186/page/ You may contact Till and ask him for a equivalent simulation for the 206E. I´m quite sure he has already done it. Rudolf
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www.dipolplus.de |
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#3 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: oregon
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That Replikon really caught my eye. If you read its pdf file you learn that a pair costs 10,000 euro, which is cruising thirteen thousand bucks. As much as i love the design I'm just not prepared to accept that anyone should have to pay that kind of money for fostex.
I second the idea that a speaker should look great. What all DIY and good commercial speaker designs have in common is that they are significantly larger than mass-market offerings. Which means that they tend to loom large in any decor. The looks of the speakers increase along with the scale. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Wisconsin
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Quote:
folkie13- you mentioned you were a newbie to speaker building, but I guess the real question in regards to the topic is: how is your wood working? If you are pretty comftorable with a saw than something like the Hedlund horn or the horn in my avitar is not all that difficult to design. Although they do take a fair amount of time to build. Joe |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Germany
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Quote:
If you want to SELL that kind of design oriented one-off manufactured loudspeakers you better give them a hefty price tag. There are so many audiophiles who wouldn´t even consider looking at a loudspeaker beyond 5.000 Euro. Actually you shouldn´t blame the manufacturers but the buyers
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www.dipolplus.de |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ont.
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Quote:
I would say average to above average with a fair amount of tools. Also an older retired friend that just putters around doing woodworking as a hobby all week long with a fully loaded shop. Some people always factor in what their time is worth but having too much on my hands, to be able to see and hear something that I did myself more than outweighs it! That's why I said that having a proven plan without having to do all the math designing one is my best choice. Compared to all those mathcad figures you guys are throwing around buying the drivers and building the cabinet seems the easy part. That's why I want to pick your brains as to a very musical full range system that makes a statement aesthetically. Is there much of a different sonic signature whether choosing to build a ML TQWT or horn based on the same driver? These will become part of my analog system with tube amplification and vinyl. At present my main system has a Celeste4070se (SS) amp, ASL tube pre, Shanling CDP and Totem speakers. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Wisconsin
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I believe that MLTL for drivers designed for horn loading is a bit of a compramise: easy contruction, and slightly lower f3; for less effeciency and dynamics. I would certainly go for a horn given the choice. Here is where I got my insperation (sp?) for my horns. http://melhuish.org/audio/DIYRH9.html
All I did was plug the numbers into a horn calculator, figure out how big of a horn I could put up with, then match the size with the frequency. Then just add a filter chamber, plot it out, and start building. Just remember that you cann't overbrace a large horn. Joe |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
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For some creative Fostex designs you might consider contacting Madisound for copies of the Nagaoka books. Set of 5 for USD89.
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