454Casull said:
yup. Amorphous metal material is in its infancy right now, but "core" materials are more prevelent than wire (or coatings). I think the only audio wire manufacturer that uses it is Indra (and even then only with a limited stock of the stuff). No one I know of uses it for an elecromagnet material - it is however making its way into audio purpose transformers (thankfully). (Tango, Tribute, Automatic Electric Europe, and now Lundahl.)
Wool Felt
Wool felt source
I purchased a yard of 1/8" thick (approximately) x 60" wide 100% wool felt for $29 US.
I unable to find anything locally.
Bill
Wool felt source
I purchased a yard of 1/8" thick (approximately) x 60" wide 100% wool felt for $29 US.
I unable to find anything locally.
Bill
Variac said:
I think the better magnets are from Japan (not Taiwan), and their production is set-up for a quite strong (gauss) - though with older methods of traditional manufacturing. I think they (Foster), can get a gauss up to around 1.6, which is more than most neo magnets produce (look at the magnets available for hobby interests - they rarely are stonger than 1.4). So it probably isn't a cost benefit to them (yet), without killing-off more Japanese labor.
Europe seems to be the ones using the stronger neo magnets. The OEM Ciare I mentioned is 1.75, and BMS uses magnets up to Lowther's highest of 2.2 (and at reasonable prices). Only the Exact (Japan) drivers and the most expensive of the AER (Europe) drivers have higher gauss ratings. (And Note that the Exact drivers also use old manufacturing methods with extremely costly materials - i.e. not a neo magnet).
454Casull said:
For conductors it isn't a matter of resistance (at least not with the lengths and guages we use), but crystal structure does seem to have an audible effect (and at EXTREME (pacific telco) lengths a "directional signiture"). My guess is that it alters the "quality" (not quantity) of voltage. Additionally nanocrystalline materials don't oxidize - so impurities (particularly surface impurities) won't be present (see "skin effect").
We know more about magnetics (transformers and magnetics in general). See "Hysteresis".
Update Note on the ESR:
After breaking in the driver for over 300 hrs. I tried them on my laptop measurement setup last night.
Caveat:
I'm having "issues" with LspLab and my measurement setup (which is anything but "laboratory grade"). So far however I have done a moderatly succesful (I think) free-air measurment "sweep" at 1 meter. I'll have to look into exporting and importing gif's before I can post any measurements. Because its free-air the only usefull freq. response is from about 1.3kHz up.
What I observed:
See the pdf for reference: http://www.madisound.com/fe166esr.pdf
The PDF shows a trough roughly between 1.3 and 3.3 kHz of about 3-4db. You didn't really think it would be this nice did you?
Instead what I get are essentially 3 peaks at 1.3, 4.3, and 9kHz. Each peak is about 3 db lower than the last. With 1 octave smoothing (i.e. HEAVY smoothing) the response is essentially down 6db's on axis between 1.3kHz and 10kHz. (it is possible that the overall reduction in output is from my crappy amp - but I don't think so.)
Resistance may be futile, possibly advantageous.
FWIW, Fostex of Jp has exhibited the last 2 years at CES with large Acuphase amplifiers and "tungsten" wires. The first year the amps had meters and ran about 50% capacity at moderate volume. An entire system's worth of connectors of lead and teflon sheilded tungsten weighs about 150lbs. A power cord was 60lbs. A spkr wire pair would run you about us$2500 available only to freinds of Fostex in Japan. Made my Mr. Miyanohara himself, the driver eng.
Bass was great!
TC
... and for those wanting a similar effect without spending so much $ on cables but instead on amplification you could purchase a Firstwatt amp
I have been breaking in my 166es-r's on my Powermac G5 using just the analogue output with a combination of Pinknoise, 30Hz - 1KHz sweeps, a 30Hz tone and plenty music (itunes) for the the last 10 days for about 12 hours each day just sitting on my desk.
They are now louder but more importantly clearer. Bass (you know what I mean when I say bass) has much improved as well.
Overall I think these speakers sound quite good so far. I have not yet decided which cabinet I will be using but the three finalists are the recommended cab as per Madisound, the D-37 and the D-168 and I am leaning towards the D-168.
Andrew
I have been breaking in my 166es-r's on my Powermac G5 using just the analogue output with a combination of Pinknoise, 30Hz - 1KHz sweeps, a 30Hz tone and plenty music (itunes) for the the last 10 days for about 12 hours each day just sitting on my desk.
They are now louder but more importantly clearer. Bass (you know what I mean when I say bass) has much improved as well.
Overall I think these speakers sound quite good so far. I have not yet decided which cabinet I will be using but the three finalists are the recommended cab as per Madisound, the D-37 and the D-168 and I am leaning towards the D-168.
Andrew
The audibility of crystal structure and/or directionality hasn't been confirmed yet, has it?ScottG said:
So what happens when the surface of the wire has oxidized slightly? Supposing that resistance increases slightly due to the low conductivity of copper oxide (assuming a copper wire), I doubt that the high frequency rolloff of a cable is anything greater than 1dB at most. Unless you're worried about hearing the effect?
Last I heard, the stuff used in transformer cores aren't magnets. Magnetically permeable? Yes. But not permanently magnetic. (Laminated silicon steel, ferrite, FINEMET, etc. - none of these is a magnet)
So... I just went back and re-read your post, and I magically find an "electro" prepended to the word "magnet", which I understand to be a field coil of sorts. Using an amorphous alloy core (motor?) would make complete sense. My mistake, sir.
BTW, a 2" driver with +/- 1mm of x-max is limited to a maximum SPL of 99dB at 1m, given a 2pi space. If efficiency is over 95dB/1W@1m, (let's say 96dB), then x-max will be exceeded with only 2 W of input power, unless my math is completely wrong (and it has been known to be).
Yes, I built a pair of Swan 101 A or D's I forget now but they are using the FE108EZ.
Great imaging and bass like you would'nt believe, no it won't shake the walls but when you consider the fact it actually about a 3" cone you may shake your head in disbelief. I think they have a more open sound than the "usual" BLH.
Andrew
These are the freq. response graphs I've been getting (usable from 1.3kHz): The Top graph is a freq. sweep method and is more accurate (with no smoothing), The bottom is a gated freq. sweep which is less accurate. Note that my test equip is so poor that distortion measurements on the gated response are essentially worthless (and as a result are worthless for a CSD).
Attachments
Smashatoms said:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://www.geocities.com/dbr_audio/swan101a.html
dave
Go here http://homepage3.nifty.com/spida/eng-page9-1-4.htm
Madisound sells a set of 5 books with cabinets galore for about US$90.00 all for Fostex drivers.
Factory Horn Up and Running
I installed the drivers yesterday and fired them up. I am using a Curcio Premium modified Dynaco ST70 and PAS with a old Onkyo CD Changer.
I followed the plan exactly as printed, except that I have not yet installed the two back braces, and second layer of Baltic Brich on the sidewalls. I am not sure if is need as they sound wonderful. For dampening I used the less is more philosopy. In the compression chamber I used two layers of polyester quilt batting on on the back wall and bottom. The finished thickness is about 1/4". I also dampened the each drivers with duct seal and two layers of wool felt. To allow the driver to breath I used a wood rasp to backcut the front baffle between the driver mounting holes. I am currently using no series resistance or correction of any kind.
After playing the speakers a while I placed a layer of felt on the bottom horn ladder. This tweak really helped to smooth out the overall presentation.
Bass is more than adequate, but doesn't go real low, but what is there has good impact. Overall these are very fine sounding speakers and I am one happy camper. I also don't feel that need any help on top, although adding a T-90 Supertweeter could be interesting. Midrange as expected is wonderful, and I can't imagine how much nicer they will sound after they break in.
I will try and post some pictures in the next couple of days.
Bill
I installed the drivers yesterday and fired them up. I am using a Curcio Premium modified Dynaco ST70 and PAS with a old Onkyo CD Changer.
I followed the plan exactly as printed, except that I have not yet installed the two back braces, and second layer of Baltic Brich on the sidewalls. I am not sure if is need as they sound wonderful. For dampening I used the less is more philosopy. In the compression chamber I used two layers of polyester quilt batting on on the back wall and bottom. The finished thickness is about 1/4". I also dampened the each drivers with duct seal and two layers of wool felt. To allow the driver to breath I used a wood rasp to backcut the front baffle between the driver mounting holes. I am currently using no series resistance or correction of any kind.
After playing the speakers a while I placed a layer of felt on the bottom horn ladder. This tweak really helped to smooth out the overall presentation.
Bass is more than adequate, but doesn't go real low, but what is there has good impact. Overall these are very fine sounding speakers and I am one happy camper. I also don't feel that need any help on top, although adding a T-90 Supertweeter could be interesting. Midrange as expected is wonderful, and I can't imagine how much nicer they will sound after they break in.
I will try and post some pictures in the next couple of days.
Bill
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