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Old 13th January 2005, 04:36 AM   #1
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Default fe167 harsh

Just completed a small project , fostex fe167 in a simple base reflex cabinet. Sound is Ok but seems harsh ( normal brake in ?)

Has a big sound for a small driver , good imaging , high end is killing me .
Jeff
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Old 13th January 2005, 04:43 AM   #2
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Default Re: fe167 harsh

Quote:
Originally posted by tenderland
Just completed a small project , fostex fe167 in a simple base reflex cabinet. Sound is Ok but seems harsh ( normal brake in ?)

Has a big sound for a small driver , good imaging , high end is killing me .
Jeff
Break in is reported to be in the 200 hour range!

Cheers,
Gio.
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Old 13th January 2005, 04:46 AM   #3
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Default brake in

In a word , WoW
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Old 13th January 2005, 04:47 AM   #4
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What do you use to drive it? They have a reputation for being picky about amplifiers... they are supposed to benefit from tubes and current sources. A search of the archives should bring up some suggestions that have been made for taming the sound.

-joe
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Old 13th January 2005, 04:50 AM   #5
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Default driving

Using an OLD ADCOM GFA-535 II ,NAD PREAMP
SONY X555ES CD player. THe AMP is CHEESE .
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Old 13th January 2005, 05:02 AM   #6
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The amp is the part that matters here.. some series resistance might help. Have a look at the article- "Current Source Amplifiers and Sensitive / Full-Range Drivers" at Pass DIY:

http://www.passdiy.com/articles.htm

It's just a hunch that this could be helpful or interesting- I haven't tried it. Good luck, and don't give up. These drivers go into some very expensive speakers, and have a ton of good reviews.
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Old 13th January 2005, 05:05 AM   #7
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Default driver

Thank you Joe , and thanks for diging up that link


Jeff
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Old 13th January 2005, 07:56 AM   #8
drongo is offline drongo  Australia
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Default fe167e harsh

Don't do anything drastic yet, they do take some time to break in, I was still finding improvements after 3 months. You can probably speed up the the breakin process by playing some reggae or whatever from time to time (but don't over do it :-)

I am using mine in the Brines design FT1600 mark1

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Old 13th January 2005, 03:41 PM   #9
GM is offline GM  United States
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Quote:
The amp is the part that matters here
While I agree that some series R should be used, and probably some BSC also, FWIW every Sony tape/CD/DVD player I've owned in the last ~35yrs has had a 'hot' sounding tonal balance that many folks consider more 'HIFI', especially when driving a typical low efficiency/resolution, underdamped consumer speaker. For me, it's enough that I use three different digital EQ 'room curves' for Sony, non-Sony, and tube/LP sources to get a ~uniform tonal balance regardless of the source.

Then there's the interconnects, speaker cables, etc., that can have this kind of impact on the sound.....

Anyway, I just wanted to point out that we're dealing with a 'system', with many potential tonal/timbre defining components in the chain that must be balanced out or we tend to wind up wrongly 'accusing' a component for being the sole 'weak link'.

GM
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Old 13th January 2005, 04:54 PM   #10
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Has anyone tried rolling up a small piece of polyester wool and placing it between the whizzer and the main cone? I've seen this done on other drivers to control vibration.
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