The amp is the part that matters here.. some series resistance might help. Have a look at the article- "Current Source Amplifiers and Sensitive / Full-Range Drivers" at Pass DIY:
http://www.passdiy.com/articles.htm
It's just a hunch that this could be helpful or interesting- I haven't tried it. Good luck, and don't give up. These drivers go into some very expensive speakers, and have a ton of good reviews.
http://www.passdiy.com/articles.htm
It's just a hunch that this could be helpful or interesting- I haven't tried it. Good luck, and don't give up. These drivers go into some very expensive speakers, and have a ton of good reviews.
fe167e harsh
Don't do anything drastic yet, they do take some time to break in, I was still finding improvements after 3 months. You can probably speed up the the breakin process by playing some reggae or whatever from time to time (but don't over do it
I am using mine in the Brines design FT1600 mark1
Don't do anything drastic yet, they do take some time to break in, I was still finding improvements after 3 months. You can probably speed up the the breakin process by playing some reggae or whatever from time to time (but don't over do it
I am using mine in the Brines design FT1600 mark1
While I agree that some series R should be used, and probably some BSC also, FWIW every Sony tape/CD/DVD player I've owned in the last ~35yrs has had a 'hot' sounding tonal balance that many folks consider more 'HIFI', especially when driving a typical low efficiency/resolution, underdamped consumer speaker. For me, it's enough that I use three different digital EQ 'room curves' for Sony, non-Sony, and tube/LP sources to get a ~uniform tonal balance regardless of the source.
Then there's the interconnects, speaker cables, etc., that can have this kind of impact on the sound.....
Anyway, I just wanted to point out that we're dealing with a 'system', with many potential tonal/timbre defining components in the chain that must be balanced out or we tend to wind up wrongly 'accusing' a component for being the sole 'weak link'.
GM
I've got the same driver in a TQWP, and it really does take time to break it in. I used to be skeptical of the "break in" concept, but I am convinced it is real now. The drivers will mellow out a lot, and the forward presentation will back off considerably.
You might also consider some stuffing or damping in the box, if you don't already have some in there. I've had good results from lining the inside of the basket legs with felt, and coating the metal frame with duct seal.
Don't give up, it's a good little driver.
-Jeremy
You might also consider some stuffing or damping in the box, if you don't already have some in there. I've had good results from lining the inside of the basket legs with felt, and coating the metal frame with duct seal.
Don't give up, it's a good little driver.
-Jeremy
On the FE164 BR which is similar, tried different amounts of polyester around the whizzer but the sound flattened to much to my liking so decided to take it off.
Brake in, as long as said, takes care of most of the short comings but I still think that the speaker has lot of potential and would like to try some mods to the drivers but no clue what to do.
driver tweeks..
Do a search on driver tweeks to try and tame the midrange beam. My favorite one so far is to line the inner basket legs with felt as mentioned earlier or this clay like caulking material sold at Home Depot. I forget what its called at the moment but its cheap and easily reversable. Currently, only three of the six legs are damped. The sound deadend too much with six legs covered. You could even stick it to the back of the magnet if you like to prevent reflections. Didn't help any in my case so I took it off. Cool stuff...
Oh yea, I agree with everyone else, break-in takes forever (>200hours). Be patient...
Do a search on driver tweeks to try and tame the midrange beam. My favorite one so far is to line the inner basket legs with felt as mentioned earlier or this clay like caulking material sold at Home Depot. I forget what its called at the moment but its cheap and easily reversable. Currently, only three of the six legs are damped. The sound deadend too much with six legs covered. You could even stick it to the back of the magnet if you like to prevent reflections. Didn't help any in my case so I took it off. Cool stuff...
Oh yea, I agree with everyone else, break-in takes forever (>200hours). Be patient...
now we listen
well we will have to brake in and see what we get before trying mods.
I did change the wiring internaly from driver to binding post. They do have some nice qualities.One thing that concerns me is that it seems strings seem a little thin . I wish I had a decent Amp to drive them. On To the next project, horn loaded subwoofer (curent issue audio xpress) ( I love this stuff ) .
[]
Jeff
well we will have to brake in and see what we get before trying mods.
I did change the wiring internaly from driver to binding post. They do have some nice qualities.One thing that concerns me is that it seems strings seem a little thin . I wish I had a decent Amp to drive them. On To the next project, horn loaded subwoofer (curent issue audio xpress) ( I love this stuff ) .
[]
Jeff
Re: ductseal
I have it around the circumference of the magnet, and all over the back of the basket. I also filled the voids behind the flange created by the stamping process, so it seals the driver to the cab.
I would think you could use it inside the legs instead of felt, I've just never tried it. The nice thing about duct seal is if you don't like result, just peel it off. It really does change the sound of the driver....try it out. Just be carefull that the cone and spider are well clear of whatever you put back there, you don't want it to hit.
I have tried some poly stuffing around the wizzer cone as well, but I like it better without on the 167. Try that too, totally reversable, and it tones down the highs. Takes about 30 second to do both speakers!
Good luck, and keep us posted,
Jeremy
tenderland said:
I have it around the circumference of the magnet, and all over the back of the basket. I also filled the voids behind the flange created by the stamping process, so it seals the driver to the cab.
I would think you could use it inside the legs instead of felt, I've just never tried it. The nice thing about duct seal is if you don't like result, just peel it off. It really does change the sound of the driver....try it out. Just be carefull that the cone and spider are well clear of whatever you put back there, you don't want it to hit.
I have tried some poly stuffing around the wizzer cone as well, but I like it better without on the 167. Try that too, totally reversable, and it tones down the highs. Takes about 30 second to do both speakers!
Good luck, and keep us posted,
Jeremy
smoothing the shout
Well boys and girls I went a little beyond everyone so far.
Duct seal on back was the first step. Then one morning I decide to put in a phase plug.
I am real happy with the out come, I have not heard of too many folks that have tried it. For me it seems to be pretty good.
Check out the photo.
Well boys and girls I went a little beyond everyone so far.
Duct seal on back was the first step. Then one morning I decide to put in a phase plug.
I am real happy with the out come, I have not heard of too many folks that have tried it. For me it seems to be pretty good.
Check out the photo.
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