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Old 13th January 2005, 04:18 PM   #11
jeremym is offline jeremym  Canada
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I've got the same driver in a TQWP, and it really does take time to break it in. I used to be skeptical of the "break in" concept, but I am convinced it is real now. The drivers will mellow out a lot, and the forward presentation will back off considerably.

You might also consider some stuffing or damping in the box, if you don't already have some in there. I've had good results from lining the inside of the basket legs with felt, and coating the metal frame with duct seal.

Don't give up, it's a good little driver.

-Jeremy
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Old 13th January 2005, 10:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Has anyone tried rolling up a small piece of polyester wool and placing it between the whizzer and the main cone? I've seen this done on other drivers to control vibration
On the FE164 BR which is similar, tried different amounts of polyester around the whizzer but the sound flattened to much to my liking so decided to take it off.

Brake in, as long as said, takes care of most of the short comings but I still think that the speaker has lot of potential and would like to try some mods to the drivers but no clue what to do.
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Old 14th January 2005, 12:32 AM   #13
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Default driver tweeks..

Do a search on driver tweeks to try and tame the midrange beam. My favorite one so far is to line the inner basket legs with felt as mentioned earlier or this clay like caulking material sold at Home Depot. I forget what its called at the moment but its cheap and easily reversable. Currently, only three of the six legs are damped. The sound deadend too much with six legs covered. You could even stick it to the back of the magnet if you like to prevent reflections. Didn't help any in my case so I took it off. Cool stuff...

Oh yea, I agree with everyone else, break-in takes forever (>200hours). Be patient...
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Old 14th January 2005, 01:02 AM   #14
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Quote:
My favorite one so far is to line the inner basket legs with felt as mentioned earlier or this clay like caulking material sold at Home Depot.
Duct Seal works very well for this. It's very pliable and never hardens.
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Old 14th January 2005, 04:06 AM   #15
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Default now we listen

well we will have to brake in and see what we get before trying mods.
I did change the wiring internaly from driver to binding post. They do have some nice qualities.One thing that concerns me is that it seems strings seem a little thin . I wish I had a decent Amp to drive them. On To the next project, horn loaded subwoofer (curent issue audio xpress) ( I love this stuff ) .


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Jeff
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Old 14th January 2005, 06:52 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by Timn8ter
Has anyone tried rolling up a small piece of polyester wool and placing it between the whizzer and the main cone? I've seen this done on other drivers to control vibration.
Not on Fostex, but on a number of other whizzer cones... i use low density open cel foam. it helps... i'm also starting to damar the whizzers (puzzlecoating the cone)... remember the blue & yellow Frugal-phile(tm) specials?

dave
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Old 14th January 2005, 06:49 PM   #17
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Default ductseal

When using Ductseal do you use it primarily on the outer basket
or can you aply it to the inside also instead of felt ?




Jeff
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Old 14th January 2005, 07:57 PM   #18
jeremym is offline jeremym  Canada
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Default Re: ductseal

Quote:
Originally posted by tenderland
When using Ductseal do you use it primarily on the outer basket
or can you aply it to the inside also instead of felt ?
I have it around the circumference of the magnet, and all over the back of the basket. I also filled the voids behind the flange created by the stamping process, so it seals the driver to the cab.

I would think you could use it inside the legs instead of felt, I've just never tried it. The nice thing about duct seal is if you don't like result, just peel it off. It really does change the sound of the driver....try it out. Just be carefull that the cone and spider are well clear of whatever you put back there, you don't want it to hit.

I have tried some poly stuffing around the wizzer cone as well, but I like it better without on the 167. Try that too, totally reversable, and it tones down the highs. Takes about 30 second to do both speakers!

Good luck, and keep us posted,

Jeremy
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Old 14th January 2005, 08:10 PM   #19
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Default thank you

Thanks for all the help I wish I had something to offer , however I just have questions (I know nothing ) .Any TV or consumer electronic repair questions, I could answer .

Jeff
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Old 21st January 2005, 10:47 PM   #20
SCD is offline SCD  Canada
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Default smoothing the shout

Well boys and girls I went a little beyond everyone so far.
Duct seal on back was the first step. Then one morning I decide to put in a phase plug.
I am real happy with the out come, I have not heard of too many folks that have tried it. For me it seems to be pretty good.
Check out the photo.
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