Hello Cernui,
I listened to rock and electronic music on mine and with FRS8 they were fine, go ahead and make a pair you won't be disappointed, if they are your first pair of homemade speakers it's a very good project to start with.
I used mine for about 5 years before making some others.
Cheers - Jim
I listened to rock and electronic music on mine and with FRS8 they were fine, go ahead and make a pair you won't be disappointed, if they are your first pair of homemade speakers it's a very good project to start with.
I used mine for about 5 years before making some others.
Cheers - Jim
Hi there,
im willing to try my hand on building some DIY speakers, and theese seem to be a nice, good sounding and cheap enough to start with (as seen on youtube and reading comments). I can get Tang Band's W3-871B. Can some one point to the building plans for the Needle tower? Looks like everyting here is so old its not working anymore (pics of plans).
im willing to try my hand on building some DIY speakers, and theese seem to be a nice, good sounding and cheap enough to start with (as seen on youtube and reading comments). I can get Tang Band's W3-871B. Can some one point to the building plans for the Needle tower? Looks like everyting here is so old its not working anymore (pics of plans).
I have the same combo, I did not put in BSC, and it sounds good and balanced to my ear.
It seems like this design is less sensitive to driver parameters than say a typical bass reflex design. People seem to get good results using pretty much any driver. But how far can it be stretched? I'm thinking of building a 1.5-way using RS100-8 drivers--would this cabinet design need much tweaking?
Cyburgs with Tang Band W3-1878 instead ??
I'm a newbie speaker builder who would appreciate some advice. Also please forgive me if my project seems like an exercise in overkill--kind of the opposite of the usual DIY ethic of using as little as possible to get the best results possible. I would like to build the Needles according to the plans at SPLIBS, using baltic birch plywood, as my office system, running from a DIY mod/rebuild Dynaco ST-70 that I'm already committed to.
The Tang Band driver that many people have used is the W3-871SC 3" (Parts Express listing and specs), which is now apparently discontinued. I would replace it with the W3-1878 3" bamboo (Parts Express listing and specs -- and also further description here) -- unless someone can suggest a driver that is better sounding or significantly more efficient (for possible later use with SET). I've searched and a few people on the web seem to have tried this combination, but there are no details.
Are the specs of the w3-1878 close enough to those of the w3-871 that I could use the plans as-is, other than just adjusting the size of the driver cut-out? Or is there some simple mod (different port size? taller box? wider? etc.) that would make it work better?
Also, would I likely need a notch filter? Could someone explain how to wire and install one?
Thanks,
Bill
I'm a newbie speaker builder who would appreciate some advice. Also please forgive me if my project seems like an exercise in overkill--kind of the opposite of the usual DIY ethic of using as little as possible to get the best results possible. I would like to build the Needles according to the plans at SPLIBS, using baltic birch plywood, as my office system, running from a DIY mod/rebuild Dynaco ST-70 that I'm already committed to.
The Tang Band driver that many people have used is the W3-871SC 3" (Parts Express listing and specs), which is now apparently discontinued. I would replace it with the W3-1878 3" bamboo (Parts Express listing and specs -- and also further description here) -- unless someone can suggest a driver that is better sounding or significantly more efficient (for possible later use with SET). I've searched and a few people on the web seem to have tried this combination, but there are no details.
Are the specs of the w3-1878 close enough to those of the w3-871 that I could use the plans as-is, other than just adjusting the size of the driver cut-out? Or is there some simple mod (different port size? taller box? wider? etc.) that would make it work better?
Also, would I likely need a notch filter? Could someone explain how to wire and install one?
Thanks,
Bill
I traced the spl of the W3-871 (tangbands 100db scale makes it look smoother) but even on a 50db scale I can't see anywhere where you would be putting a notch, other than maybe 250 Hz which would probably be impractical, unless you were thinking above 12Khz??
I've no experience with this driver or the Cyburg needles though so take this with a grain of salt
Tony.
I've no experience with this driver or the Cyburg needles though so take this with a grain of salt
Tony.
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I wonder how practical it is to run a driver below its resonant frequency.
I guess it can be done with line array. But then you loose the benefits of point source.
Or maybe transmission line.
I have been considering running in parallel like a push - pull arrangement with one on the front baffle and the other (out of phase) and one on the back baffle.
Sort of what Audio Physic did with the bass drivers in their Virgos.
I guess it can be done with line array. But then you loose the benefits of point source.
Or maybe transmission line.
I have been considering running in parallel like a push - pull arrangement with one on the front baffle and the other (out of phase) and one on the back baffle.
Sort of what Audio Physic did with the bass drivers in their Virgos.
Dear Berndt,
I would like to express my gratitude for providing the DIY community with this awesome design.
I built a pair of needles 8 years ago. Drivers inside are FRS8 and ever since I've been happy with the way they sound.
These are far from the perfect speakers, I know it, but (as many others already mentioned) I really enjoy the slim tall design, the drivers at my ears height, the lovely sound stage and the high WAF.
For 3 years the needles are ditched in a closet, because my son was born and the small footprint design is not suitable for crawling/walking toddlers. Plus they're attracted to the dustcaps like a moth to a light bulb...
Anyway...now it is time to get them out of the closet and I'd like to upgrade the FRS8 to something "higher" end. My options are:
1. Top of the line AP6, everybody says this is the optimal speaker. Can somebody confirm/simulate if the latest version - Alpair 6.2 (6M) is still suitable? The first generation is discontinued, can't find the TS parameters to compare to AP6.2. The AP6P, with the blue paper cone is also discontinued.
2. Omnes audio BB3.01 is reported to be a good fit as well. What about the slightly bigger BB3.5. Did somebody tried those? In theory, the slightly larger Sd should be beneficial for the sound pressure. They have a bit more power handling, which is also welcome.
3. Does somebody has experience with the Monacor SPX-31M and the SPX-32-M? I can easily obtain those in my country, we've a local dealer selling them. Would they be an improvement, compared to the FRS8? I would really appreciate if someone can simulate those in the MJK's software, speaking of which, I can't also find it on the net anymore...
Any advise is welcome!
Kind regards,
Stanislav
I would like to express my gratitude for providing the DIY community with this awesome design.
I built a pair of needles 8 years ago. Drivers inside are FRS8 and ever since I've been happy with the way they sound.
These are far from the perfect speakers, I know it, but (as many others already mentioned) I really enjoy the slim tall design, the drivers at my ears height, the lovely sound stage and the high WAF.
For 3 years the needles are ditched in a closet, because my son was born and the small footprint design is not suitable for crawling/walking toddlers. Plus they're attracted to the dustcaps like a moth to a light bulb...
Anyway...now it is time to get them out of the closet and I'd like to upgrade the FRS8 to something "higher" end. My options are:
1. Top of the line AP6, everybody says this is the optimal speaker. Can somebody confirm/simulate if the latest version - Alpair 6.2 (6M) is still suitable? The first generation is discontinued, can't find the TS parameters to compare to AP6.2. The AP6P, with the blue paper cone is also discontinued.
2. Omnes audio BB3.01 is reported to be a good fit as well. What about the slightly bigger BB3.5. Did somebody tried those? In theory, the slightly larger Sd should be beneficial for the sound pressure. They have a bit more power handling, which is also welcome.
3. Does somebody has experience with the Monacor SPX-31M and the SPX-32-M? I can easily obtain those in my country, we've a local dealer selling them. Would they be an improvement, compared to the FRS8? I would really appreciate if someone can simulate those in the MJK's software, speaking of which, I can't also find it on the net anymore...
Any advise is welcome!
Kind regards,
Stanislav
Hello Stanislav,
I'm not sure if Berndt is still active. I built several needles sometimes in a slightly adapted housing.
The BB3.01 is better than the FRS8. Never used the BB3.5 but it has the right parameters.
Best results I had with Markaudio Alpair 6P Gen2. This driver is excellent but availability limited.
Big advantage is their filterless usability.
The spx-32m seems better than the spx-31m but I have no experience with those.
I'd go for the Alpair 6 paper cone Gen2.
I'm not sure if Berndt is still active. I built several needles sometimes in a slightly adapted housing.
The BB3.01 is better than the FRS8. Never used the BB3.5 but it has the right parameters.
Best results I had with Markaudio Alpair 6P Gen2. This driver is excellent but availability limited.
Big advantage is their filterless usability.
The spx-32m seems better than the spx-31m but I have no experience with those.
I'd go for the Alpair 6 paper cone Gen2.