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#181 | |
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Apa's DIY
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
thanks, great! gychang |
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#182 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Could someone give me some details about routing to open up the space around the driver to let it breathe?
I wonder if clearing out this space leaves less wood for your speaker mounting screws to grab into... is this a problem? Is there any trouble about decreasing the strength of the speaker face in this area? When you clear out this space, approx what angle have people been using to cut it back at? (call 90 no cut - people like it steep, like 60 or 70 degrees? and even 45? Shallower?) Would making a smooth transition to the flat inside of the panel be worth the effort, or is a hard transition acceptable? I'm considering using a dremel to carve out spaces around the mounting screws, leaving thick board running up to the driver in those areas for mounting strength and panel vibration control. Also I consider trying to make a nice rounded space through here, leaving no sharp edges where the driver will be radiating backward into the box. Does this sound like it would be worth the effort? Perhaps I will eventually construct multiple boxes in order to examine this issue. But if any of you can save me the work by just telling me that would be cool. - Adam (noob) |
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#183 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: near Hamburg Germany
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for small speaker try:
cut out larger than the driver, glue the driver B or FL on 3-4 mm aluminium, 8 srews hold the felt alu baffle. like my TROMBONE
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http://www.hm-moreart.de |
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#184 | |
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Apa's DIY
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
thanks, gychang |
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#185 | |
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Apa's DIY
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I am considering getting the TB speaker but am not sure which design I should consider. gychang |
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#186 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Copenhagen
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Hi gychang
I have just tried to make a speaker as simple as possible and with the best possible frequency repsonse with this nice TB drivers. I have never heard Needle, and can not say if my design is better or not. I have compared Needle and TABAQ using MJK simulations software. This shows TABAQ has a more flat frequency response. Furthermore, I have not tuned the cabinet fundamental as low as Needle. TABAQ is tuned to 55 Hz, which I found was the lowest fundamental the TB drivers could manage. Please note, MJK MathCad simulations is a prediction of the finished result in an anechoic environment. The actual in-room repsonse will be different depending on the actual room and the location of the speaker. Hi from Bjorn |
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#187 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Austria
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@greenie512,
these are one of the nicest Needles I have seen by now, congratulations! @AdamThorne: The most important thing is that the drivers have enough space to breathe. I usually make the cut in about 60°. In this case the screws still find enough wood. Rounding the cut on the inner side can theoretically give an advantage, but I doubt that one can hear the difference. But if you can do the woodwork, do it. It gives a good feeling afterwards. Nice greetings, Berndt |
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#188 | |
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Apa's DIY
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Bjorn: thanks for your clear explanation, I found your speakers very attractive as a DIY project. gychang |
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#189 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: London
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Adamthorne,
A couple days ago you asked about opening out the back of the baffle on Cyburg’s Needles. I used a 45 degree ½ inch chamfer bit with a guide bearing. Because I had routed out a recess running the bearing on the remaining thickness wouldn’t have given much of a chamfer (see right router bit in diagram attached). I therefore cut a hole in some scrap the same diameter as the speaker hole using a home-made router compass, put it underneath the baffle and ran the bearing round it (see left router bit in diagram attached). The photo under the diagram shows a test piece I made. You can see I’ve left material around the bolt holes. The pencil circles are approximately ½ inch diameter. These are a visual ‘stop’ when routing. I don’t think this weakens the baffle much. There’s plenty of material left for whatever small compressive load you get from 4mm bolt. If you need any more information please ask. Mark |
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#190 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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thx, mod-sonic, that's just what I was planning to do by hand with a dremel... =)
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