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Cyburgs-Needle for Tangband W3-871S
Cyburgs-Needle for Tangband W3-871S
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Old 31st May 2006, 09:07 AM   #141
Cyburgs is offline Cyburgs  Austria
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@BSDprophet: Mitering or rounding the inside of the speaker cutout is very important, when you use the Tangband W3-871S because of it's huge magnet. When you use the Visaton FRS8 it is not critical.

@Croat47: Without having tried I think that the position of the port is not critical, because the cutoff frequency is low enough. But keep in mind that you need some space between the wall and the speaker, when you place the port on the backside.

@mazeroth: I have not tried the Hi-Vi driver by now so I can not give any recommendation. But if you have the driver anyway, just build a test-needle from cheap chipboard and give them a try. Much experience gain for a few bucks, hehe.

Nice greetings, Berndt
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Old 1st June 2006, 06:28 AM   #142
BSDprophet is offline BSDprophet  Antarctica
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Thanks!
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Old 11th July 2006, 11:17 PM   #143
kristleifur is offline kristleifur  Iceland
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Hello all,
I'm planning on building a pair of Needles -- I'm very curious about their sound. They can also be made to look very pretty, as we've seen earlier in the thread. Here's some things I'm unsure about:

1)
If I were to put the notch filter in front of the amplifier, would I keep the same resistor, cap and inductor values?
I assume that parts specced for lower wattage and perhaps voltage could be used.

I'm thinking something similar to biamplification here (but as there's only one driver per speaker I guess it's uniamplification ) What I mean is a passive notch filter on the line-level signal -- I won't be putting the filter in an opamp feedback loop.

My idea is actually to build the vanilla notch filter into the speaker, but with a switch to bypass it, and then experiment with an RLC line-level notch filter, and some form of digital "crossover" in the computer as well. (BruteFIR or something similar.) Just to get extra education out of the project and a feel for the difference between these three methods.

2)
Would plywood be OK? Would any thicknesses or measurements need to change?

I'll probably use MDF, but I seem to have numerous friends with carpenters for dads. They might have scrap plywood, so that's why I'm asking.

OK that's it. Thanks!
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Old 12th July 2006, 06:54 PM   #144
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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Cyburgs-Needle for Tangband W3-871S
Quote:
Originally posted by kristleifur
1)
If I were to put the notch filter in front of the amplifier, would I keep the same resistor, cap and inductor values?
I assume that parts specced for lower wattage and perhaps voltage could be used.

I'm thinking something similar to biamplification here (but as there's only one driver per speaker I guess it's uniamplification ) What I mean is a passive notch filter on the line-level signal -- I won't be putting the filter in an opamp feedback loop.
If you can get it right this should work better.

Quote:
2)
Would plywood be OK? Would any thicknesses or measurements need to change?
Void free is recommended. I won't build any serious speaker out of MDF any more... with plywood you can most often get away with thinner material, but here i'd just use the same thickness to save having to figure out the changes needed.

dave
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Old 12th July 2006, 07:14 PM   #145
kmj is offline kmj  Sweden
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Quote:
I'll probably use MDF, but I seem to have numerous friends with carpenters for dads. They might have scrap plywood, so that's why I'm asking.
I'm working at a brewery and when we get PET-bottles delivered they are piled on top of each other with chipboard in between for stability. Every now and then the supplier run out och chipboard and use whats handy instead. To keep this short they used 12mm thick plywood some weeks ago (5 layers) and those are now made into a pair of needles. In other words, I used scrapped 12mm plywood for my Needles, also at the top and base.

I drive them with a LM3875 gainclone with my computer as a source and this works fine. Since you probably, as me, will get the scap plywood for free just try this at first and if you like it then apply some nice finish. If not, put it in the scrap pile again.

Total cost: approx 60€
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Old 12th July 2006, 07:26 PM   #146
kristleifur is offline kristleifur  Iceland
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Many thanks!

I'll post any results of the notch filter experiments when I know more.
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Old 12th July 2006, 07:36 PM   #147
kristleifur is offline kristleifur  Iceland
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Quote:
Originally posted by kmj
... just try this at first and if you like it then apply some nice finish. If not, put it in the scrap pile again.
Hehe, I love Scandinavian humor.

I actually came across your needles yesterday, I think it was over at hififorum.nu . They are NICE. They made me even more interested in trying plywood. Plywood has such a nice look sometimes, those swirls are really kind of psychedelic.
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Old 12th July 2006, 07:41 PM   #148
lohk is offline lohk  Europe
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Put the notch filter "in front of the amplifier"?- I suppose it will work, but definitely not with the same part values, because you handle much different impedances there. Here you very likely will need an active filter solution.
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Old 12th July 2006, 10:17 PM   #149
es44 is offline es44  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally posted by kristleifur


Hehe, I love Scandinavian humor.

I actually came across your needles yesterday, I think it was over at hififorum.nu . They are NICE. They made me even more interested in trying plywood. Plywood has such a nice look sometimes, those swirls are really kind of psychedelic.
I guess you are referring to these:


Lancetta
I must admit i'm curious too. I just wonder if it's possible to use W3-315SC instead, they should be more linear, but i don't have a clue how to design my own filter
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Old 13th July 2006, 03:49 PM   #150
kmj is offline kmj  Sweden
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Quote:
I think it was over at hififorum.nu .
thats it, then you did probably come across my disgust over the grounded grid
(OT, I know)

Quote:
I guess you are referring to these:


Lancetta
Nope, these


Quote:
They are NICE.
THAAANKS!
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