Cyburgs-Needle for Tangband W3-871S

gychang said:



I am not sure what you mean, should the speaker opening cutout be angled 45 degrees?

gychang

A few pages back, this was covered pretty well:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=47403&perpage=10&pagenumber=19

To recap, Cyburgs uses a 60 degree slope, and mod_sonic posted a nice howto-ish PDF. You can use a file or a dremel or whatever to round out the opening. Leave some wood for the screws to hold on to.

Regarding the mm/inches thing, you can use Google to convert. Just query for "xx mm in inches", and it gives you the result. You can even do funny things in there, try Googling "c in furlongs per fortnight". C being the speed of light.
 
hm said:
best way to breathe,
use an alu extra baffle 3mm, glue the driver
from the back, cut out the box larger than the driver itself,
8 screws to fix

That's a pretty neat idea. Thanks. I didn't get it when you first posted it here. This looks like it solves the countersinking problem, too.

How do you cut the aluminium?

Edit: gychang, I think there's a pic at around page 20 in the thread. It could be easier to find in the printable view of the thread, with all the pages set to appear on one page.
 
in germany 76 mm diameter drill is standart
of metall workers.

it works also with a "sting-saw"
 

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The flush-mount method shown in the photo above , only has the advantage that it be simple to make - if you happen to have a kit of hole-saws with the correct diameters (93 and 73 mm).

Using the ordinary method with a router can be a bit difficullt with the small diameter openings - depending on your tools and skills.

SveinB
 
icon3.gif
Ah! I assumed that groove had been made with a router (and wondered why the author didn't use the router for the inner bevel). It's not evident from the photos that the groove was made with a hole saw. This indeed can be called a trick.

(...hang on while i get my cam...)

This was easily achieved with a router and a circle-cutting jig (that I made the quick and dirty way from some hardboard scraps) which allows the spike to slide under the router's base, thus allowing for very small radii (you see one of the Tangbands that sit on my desk; enclosure still raw):

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
Just to make this clearer for the eventual DIY newcomer: Svein's posting wasn't a plea for flush mounting a chassis (which - undisputedly, I dare to say - is, in many cases, optically or even sonically preferrable). I think he just wanted to show an alternative way of making the recess for a chassis with a stamped frame that doesn't require a router and a suitable circle-cutting jig (but instead a hole saw with exactly the right diameter). To flush mount a tweeter, a cast aluminum frame or a stamped steel frame bigger than common hole saws, a router is still needed. For the TB W3-871s, which this thread is about, the hole saw does appear to be a suitable substitute for a router.
 
how to acquire notch filter parts?

I am getting ready to build the speaker with W3-871S, and know nothing about electronic components etc. I gather I will need a notch filter.

Can I order the following parts from Partsexpress ready to install?

1. C: 6.8 microF
2. L: 0.56MH
3. R: 6.8 Ohm

Do I have the decimals and units right? Is there a schematic?

thanks.

gychang
 
lohk said:
I implemented the Tangband W3-871S.
Oh boy, now I know that it was worth waiting for the suitable construction plan. What a terrific little speaker! It sounds wonderful

I used the Tangband without the much recommended notch filter. Well all loudspeakers (and amplifiers) do actually sound so different one from the other, I do not hear any unbearable emphases with this one. I just wanted to have music on, maybe I will try that later. But I do actually like the idea of the completely passive-filter-less loudspeaker very much.
The Needle is at present positioned close the back wall (about 10cm), 2m apart, more than 1m of the corners and slightly angled inwards.
At present I still experimenting, being amazed how much tuneful bass is possible with speakers this small.

Thanks Bernt for that one.

Klaus :happy1:

I will be driving my Needles with Class D amp, anyone know if I will need the notch filter?

thanks,

gychang
 
Schematic: they are all in parallel, in line to the positive speaker terminal. Parallel means wire connects to all 3 components on one side, then all 3 components connect back together before going on to the driver.

Parts Express: that's where I got my filter components. I had to sum a 5.6 and a 1.2 ohm resistor (couldn't find 6.8 at the time). That is, solder the two together, end-to-end - the values will add.

- Adam