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Old 7th December 2004, 09:02 PM   #141
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next... v0.2 of the bi-pole & mono-pole with provisions for building out of shelf material (see note 6)

extend sides or front & back (or both) by ~19" to get a free-standing box with driver at 36"

dave
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Old 7th December 2004, 09:07 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally posted by planet10


bipole. bipole. bipole.

dipole & bipole are not interchangable

(gotta keep harping on this until it is ingrained )

dave
I'm really happy one minute then sad the next. What do you think that could be?
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Old 7th December 2004, 09:16 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally posted by Timn8ter


I'm really happy one minute then sad the next. What do you think that could be?

Not enuff Lithium?

Where is that FR plot for the 32" -er?

dave
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Old 7th December 2004, 09:27 PM   #144
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I must be BIPOLAR!
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Old 7th December 2004, 09:36 PM   #145
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The bipole cant point-source better since the reflected sound of the rear speaker creates a point the size of the rear wall. I have a switchable inductor on mine so I can use the rear driver below 150hz just for the LF help. It becomes a different speaker this way. And remember that if a bipole is placed close to the rear wall were the best LF reinforcement is, it destroys the midrange presentation.

As far as a dipole goes, they will probably always sound the most natural BUT implementation is always difficult. They have to be big, placed out in the room and little FRs next a pretty high XO so integrating the sub is tricky. A Basszilla concept is a good way to go.

My personal plan is to use the monopole and play with a 4th order BP stand w/o a crossover. Sort of a Whamodyne meets the LS35a sub.

http://home.freeuk.net/pwhatton/subs.html

Below is a winISD screenshot of a 1197BR and a 8" Dayton 4thBP. If the Fostex could be integrated, it could be a solid bottom end w/o passives. Just a thought.

amt
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Old 7th December 2004, 09:43 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally posted by Timn8ter
I must be BIPOLAR!
You should be saving those as gifs... i cleaned out the jpg noise, added a title and put it back.

60 Hz F3, 40 Hz F10... pretty amazing for a 127mm driver.

I'm thinkin' this could surprise a few people :^)

dave
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Old 7th December 2004, 09:51 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally posted by amt
The bipole cant point-source better since the reflected sound of the rear speaker creates a point the size of the rear wall. I have a switchable inductor on mine so I can use the rear driver below 150hz just for the LF help. It becomes a different speaker this way. And remember that if a bipole is placed close to the rear wall were the best LF reinforcement is, it destroys the midrange presentation.
by its very nature a bipole shouldn't be too close to the back wall -- particularily for bass reinforcement. If the speaker is far enuff out from the wall then any reflected sound should merge into the sound field and not be perceived as a source, making the bi-pole act like a mono-pole as far as direct sound goes... of course the bipole has flat power response.

Flipping the inductor in makes a 1.5 way with a monopole source on the top... power-response will be lean at the top -- having a switchable choke (or cap in the case of series wiring) is a good idea.... the filter should be sized to correspond with the baffle step.

dave
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Old 7th December 2004, 10:27 PM   #148
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Dave, granted the sounds will merge but this is placing the speakers 4-5' into the room. Mine are about 2.5' in and there not much merging going on. There a night and day difference inductored/versus non. But I do hate losing the dbs.

BTW, dont you have BDs with the angled up rear driver? Have you compared that design with an opposed driver design. Ive wondered how the reflections change and each sound relative to each other . Ive actually hung t-shirts and such over the back speaker for tweakng purposes. Looks bad but sounds good. This is a poor mans' inductor.

amt
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Old 7th December 2004, 10:40 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally posted by amt
BTW, dont you have BDs with the angled up rear driver?
We compared those against Tim's BP 1197 ML-Voigts... Tim's speaker was decididly better... in my room 2.5 ft is as close as i can get my speakers to the back wall when i'm tucking them in... 4-5' is normal and optimum room placement (i'd have to flip the whole room around again -- currently as is for SAF and to accomodate a TV monitor) they are more like 6' out (24' x 16' main room -- with another 8' x 24' mostly open next to it, and another 12'x24' space open on the end)

dave
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Old 7th December 2004, 10:41 PM   #150
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Quote:
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There a night and day difference inductored/versus non.
I have no doubt...

dave
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