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Old 7th December 2004, 07:01 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally posted by Timn8ter
I could see the CSA but didn't know L. L=30" produces a slight bump in the upper bass which isn't a bad thing when contemplating baffle step. Could make calculating a BSC difficult or unneccessary.
A bump also probably means a bit less desirable group delay thou...

Here is V0.2 which is an inch taller to make the line 2 " longer. The driver also moved up an inch to keep it in the middle. (keep in mind that tho deflectors are probably more important as braces than they are as reflectors, ie the woodwork challenged could leave them out to simplify things).

dave
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Old 7th December 2004, 07:04 PM   #132
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A tapered TL can be created by getting some 2" thick rigid foam insulation at Home Depot while picking up the wood type material.

You cut it to size, taper the thickness along the length (from 2" to zero) then put this on one wall of the box.

The only tricky part is tapering the foam. The best way is using a hot wire cutter- which is pretty easy to make with nichrome wire and a transformer. BUT if you just cut it with a bread knife and a sawing motion you can do it. This leaves a rougher surface which his probably better actually. AND you end up with 2 pieces from one cut. Easy to make deflectors this way too....

Yes, let's also make the design buildable using shelving from there too. I'll try to do research - someone else do it too- the crowds are packing the place this close to Christmas.
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Old 7th December 2004, 07:32 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally posted by Variac
some 2" thick rigid foam... Easy to make deflectors this way too....
good reflectors... not so good as braces. if you were going to go this way you could try to follow the circular arcs done in dotted red...

dave
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Old 7th December 2004, 07:34 PM   #134
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I like monopole v0.2 for it's simplicity, inherent cabinet bracing and having built something similar I'm familiar with it's performance which is quite good.
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Old 7th December 2004, 07:35 PM   #135
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Actual board measures can be found here: http://www.arnoldlumber.com/size.html

This applies to solid wood boards (generaly spruce or pine). All of the board sizes should be readily available (with the possible exception of 1x10 in some areas).

Home Depot also carries MDF in 3/4 thickness in 12 and 16 inch widths. I believe the 16" width is available in 48" lenghts, and the 12" in 96" lengths.

Hope this helps.
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Old 7th December 2004, 07:37 PM   #136
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Yes, these are the actual dimensions of nominal lumber as I mentioned before. The unknown (for me ) is if shelving is in the same widths.
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Old 7th December 2004, 07:55 PM   #137
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I tend to agree with Timn8ter on the monopole. Although the bipole will produce more LFs, even with the rear driver inductored, it still wont point-source as well as the monopole. If we are building a "reference" speaker for the Fostex, we should concentrate on making the virtues of a single driver shine. And bass response isnt really one of them. The simplier monopole will really show the drivers qualities best and would probably be built by far more people than the bipole. Adding a sub can be easily done to round out the sound. Now we have a speaker that can be used in a satalite/sub system, office/bedroom/dorm etc. More flexibility lower cost and ease of construction. The cost savings from the extra drivers can go towards woofers or proper stands.

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Old 7th December 2004, 08:15 PM   #138
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Actually, the 1"x** boards are used as shelving material. Most often the 1x12. The only other shelving material that I am aware of is the MDF shelving, common particle board, and the various pre-finished-vinyl-coated ones.
Also, most home centers will have these boards available in different species and grades of wood, including red oak in most sizes - which may make a very nice finished cabinet. The oak, however, may be expensive for many.
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Old 7th December 2004, 08:29 PM   #139
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As has been pointed out, the monopole and dipole are pretty much the same thing. For simplicities sake we could focus on the monopole, but I certainly hope that people also make the dipole and that we can also discuss good/bad points and tweaking tips for the dipoles in this thread. After all, if you are willing to assume that bass is expendible and a sub is needed, then we might have to consider other approaches instead, such as open baffle.

Also in some rooms isn't it posible that the bipole would point source better?
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Old 7th December 2004, 08:59 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally posted by Variac
hope that people also make the dipole... for the dipoles

.... the bipole....
bipole. bipole. bipole.

dipole & bipole are not interchangable

(gotta keep harping on this until it is ingrained )

dave
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