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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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OK, bear with me a moment.
Goal: for $100 or so, get the most pleasant PC sound I can at a wall-facing table. (10'x10' room, home office) I've already ordered one of those $30 "Sonic Impact" digital amps that have been discussed elsewhere. Simplicity and small size seem to point to (a) single drivers and (b) a t-line enclosure as described here (http://www.t-linespeakers.org/design/rules.html) Were I to use the Fostex FE-103E, which seems to be the best that fits my budget and which has an Fs of 79.5 Hz, that indicates a 42.5" straight t-line, with an appropriate width and taper, a project that seems simple enough with mdf and some damping substance, plus the requisite stuffing. These things would be smack up against the wall (I'm happy to sacrifice imaging) and I'm hoping to manage w/o baffle-step correction. Listening would be nearfield, like about 3 feet away -- the speakers would be more or less jammed between table and wall. I worry about the upper-treble unevenness of these drivers, being that close. Might it make sense to point the drivers at the ceiling instead? More importantly, am I nuts? Am I overlooking something crucial? Thanks in advance for any sage advice. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Silicon Valley
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Been there. Done that. They sound great. Use the FE107E rather than FE103E. It has a smoother response, and a bucking magnet.
The Locust I
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Davy Jones |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Thanks! Much to think about. Did anyone ever build the Locust 2? It looks interesting too. There was also brief mention by GM of another taller speaker with the 127E (Locust 3?)
Quote:
And a dumb question: At what point does a t-line become a ported box, or does it matter? (More prosaically, are Locusts 1 and 2 being figured with the the ported box or t-line worksheets?) I notice Locusts don't taper; on the other hand I noticed with the open-end t-line worksheets that really small vents sometimes worked nicely, which is more or less what the locust 1 seems to have. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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I'm answering some of my own questions ... in Martin King's ported box worksheet, and FE127E specs produce nice-looking results for
L=40 zdriver=2 zport=36 S0,SL=60 Density=.9 rport=.75 Lport=.75 especially if you add a little resistance -- can I just up Re by an ohm or two to experiment with an added series resistor? The bottom-end output is definitely better-behaved (at least in the model) than in the t-line. I can't figure out how to get the worksheet let me try different stuffing levels in different parts of the box ... or does that not matter? Given that the worksheet only does top-to-bottom standing waves, should I worry about sideways waves? I'm thinking about say 12 inches wide and 5 deep as interior dimensions. |
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#5 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
Use MJKs models or tables. Probably the smallest TL you can build will be a folded one based on a high taper rate (ie the 10:1 in MJK tables) dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Sorry I missed the read-me-first! Where is it? And yes, you seem to be right about t-lines.
The worksheets are highly educational -- I know this is clear to most folks on this board , but I now understand why t-lines tend to use bigger speakers than 4" and why the smaller speakers work better with horns or ported boxes. And the exchanges between folks on this board that quote worksheet results are useful, as you get to see how people move between the model and the real world. |
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#7 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/readme1st.html dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#8 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Quote:
Quote:
Qes' = Qes*(1+Rs/Rvc), where Rs is the series resistance and Rvc is the driver's DC resistance, so: Rs = (Qes'/Qes-1)*Rvc. Remember to include the series resistances of your amplifier/cable/inductors in Rs, so the actual resistor you buy may be somewhat smaller than calculated value. Qts' = Qes'*Qms/(Qes'+Qms) Vas is unchanged Then to find B*L: Cms = Vas/(Sd^2*rho*c^2) where: Vas is in m^3 (liters*0.001) Sd is in cm^2 c is in meters/sec*0.0001 to get Cms in mm/N then: Mms = 1/[(2*pi*Fs)^2*Cms] BL = [(2*Pi*Fs*Re*Mms)/Qes]^0.5 Note that there's no need to calc Qts' since the WS will, I just copied/pasted this info from another post of mine on another TL thread. Quote:
Quote:
GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Thanks GM! As far as the worksheet, I'm having difficulty with "Driver in a Ported Box (Bass Reflex) - Acoustic and Electrical Response 12/20/03" Variable section-stuffing was easy in "TL Sections," but in "Ported Box" it looks like I need to specify something else first before I can vary stuffing densities.
OTOH I can't find anyone out there who stuffs ported boxes variably so maybe it doesn't matter. Thanks lots for the other guidance! |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Quote:
You're welcome! OK, this looks like the earlier version, so just highlight, right click on one of the '0.lb.ft^3' to copy it, then double click and paste it in the various 'density' fields. If you decide that some fields can always be the same, then change them back to 'density' and input it just once in the 'enclosure geometry definition' section. GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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