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Old 28th October 2004, 05:47 PM   #11
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Default ML TL stuffing position

Hi, very nice speaker.
A point I would like to know is at what point does the stuff start/end in a MLTL.
BTW, I also have a cab coming for the Jordan. Can't wait.
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Old 28th October 2004, 11:11 PM   #12
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It is common practice to start behind and just below the driver and go up.
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Old 29th October 2004, 12:10 AM   #13
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My experience is limited to only one example, but I've found that an MLTL is hard to match up with a sub. My little system (FE107E) sounds good without a sub, but for some kinds of music noticeably lacking in bass. With the sub, I managed to get the freq response real flat, but there was something about the sound that was mooshy. I plugged the port on the MLTL's with fiber and raised the crossover point on the sub to match the rolloff of the (now) sealed speakers. It was immediately apparent that it sounded much, much better.
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Old 21st November 2004, 12:34 PM   #14
artus is offline artus  United States
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Question Driver Brace

This link previously mentioned: http://melhuish.org/audio/images/press-screw.gif
no longer has this detail. Doe anyone know the how the brace is made? I have read GM's recommendation to include this brace in the construction. Also is felt recommended behind the driver in the trapezoidal and the triangular arrangements, if so, which walls? Thanks
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Old 21st November 2004, 04:05 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dave Jones
My experience is limited to only one example, but I've found that an MLTL is hard to match up with a sub. My little system (FE107E) sounds good without a sub, but for some kinds of music noticeably lacking in bass. With the sub, I managed to get the freq response real flat, but there was something about the sound that was mooshy. I plugged the port on the MLTL's with fiber and raised the crossover point on the sub to match the rolloff of the (now) sealed speakers. It was immediately apparent that it sounded much, much better.
Interesting! I find them as easy to blend to and can use a lower XO point with more acoustic gain, so I'm curious what all you tried.

Quote:
Originally posted by artus
This link previously mentioned: http://melhuish.org/audio/images/press-screw.gif
no longer has this detail. Doe anyone know the how the brace is made? I have read GM's recommendation to include this brace in the construction. Also is felt recommended behind the driver in the trapezoidal and the triangular arrangements, if so, which walls? Thanks
See attached. Theoretically the trapezoidal one will need some on the parallel flat back panel and none for the triangular, but as always, best to do your own listening tests. FWIW, I've found that lining the back and one side of the trapezoidal and one side of the triangular has the best balance of damping/acoustic gain.

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File Type: gif press-screw.gif (5.5 KB, 1773 views)
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Old 21st November 2004, 08:20 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dave Jones
I plugged the port on the MLTL's with fiber and raised the crossover point on the sub to match the rolloff of the (now) sealed speakers.
Probably more accuratly described as "now aperiodic"

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Old 7th January 2005, 02:20 PM   #17
GM is online now GM  United States
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FWIW, somewhere in all these posts or one of the linked threads there are comments from me that 19mm Baltic Birch, Appleply, or no void marine grade plywood be used and Jay Fisher and friend's subjective opinions on how much better it sounds compared to the MDF prototype he built.

Not being a master woodworker, I have never built a speaker using premium hardwoods, but if the wood is stable and with no voids, splits, etc., then they would be an excellent sounding material to use also.

GM
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Old 22nd January 2005, 04:11 AM   #18
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: New 48" ML-TL Review

Quote:
Originally posted by navin

I am looking for the exact opposite effect.
1. I dont need to impress my friends with gigantic speakers because my big DV12 based subs already do that.
2. I am looking to have speaker that are as small as possible that do not compromise on sound and are affordable (the JX92 is the upper end of affordability but I guess I save some money in XO and tweeter costs). Ideally I would be looking at a speaker that looks like the Bose Acoustimass system but that is more listenable.


I'm going to slap a couple of JX92S's in 1/4 cubic foot closed boxes and run them with a sub. The crossover will be around 80Hz. I'll let you know how it comes out. I expect to be every bit as impressed with the results as DIYers usually are. :-)

Annow... back to your regularly scheduled thread.
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Old 22nd January 2005, 04:20 AM   #19
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: New 48" ML-TL Review

Quote:
Originally posted by Dave Jones
I'm going to slap a couple of JX92S's in 1/4 cubic foot closed boxes and run them with a sub. The crossover will be around 80Hz. I'll let you know how it comes out. I expect to be every bit as impressed with the results as DIYers usually are. :-)
which sub drivers do you intend to use.
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Old 19th February 2005, 01:06 PM   #20
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Hi,
I have done this question to another thread but I'd like to do it again over here.
Are the Jordan (VTL or MLTL) good for 10W tube amp?
Or I need a more efficiency driver?
With what kind of amps are you listening them?
I'm very interested to build them but if they're not so good due to they're low efficiency,I'd like to try something else.
It will be my first FR speaker project.And I'd like to build something that will not disappoint me.
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