A friend of mine has built a 9-10W SE tube amp. Now his existing speakers (Wilson Benesch Act 1) are not sensitive enough.
So I recomended he look at the Fostex 6" that are all about 94db/1W. He hos not built a speaker before and would like to know why the 168Sigma is twice the cost fo teh 1666/167 or FF165K. Is it worth the difference. He says he would like to build only one system and not have regrets later.
$170 per driver for teh 168 Sigma did not faze him. In either case he prefers to play safe and go with teh plans Fostex provides unless I can find him a plan that has been built before.
His musical tastes are 80% jazz, some vintage (60s-70s) rock and a bif of teh more well known classical scores but he likes it loud (atleast louder than I like it). He is looking at 100db across the musical spectrum.
BTW would his Velodyne 18" subs integrate well with teh Fostex? The work quite well with his Act 1.
So I recomended he look at the Fostex 6" that are all about 94db/1W. He hos not built a speaker before and would like to know why the 168Sigma is twice the cost fo teh 1666/167 or FF165K. Is it worth the difference. He says he would like to build only one system and not have regrets later.
$170 per driver for teh 168 Sigma did not faze him. In either case he prefers to play safe and go with teh plans Fostex provides unless I can find him a plan that has been built before.
His musical tastes are 80% jazz, some vintage (60s-70s) rock and a bif of teh more well known classical scores but he likes it loud (atleast louder than I like it). He is looking at 100db across the musical spectrum.
BTW would his Velodyne 18" subs integrate well with teh Fostex? The work quite well with his Act 1.
the 168 was built for a horn loaded cabinet. it has a chunkier magnet and thus the cost. i`ve heard it before and it does sound rather good. it requires fostex propritary sound diffusers to sound good thou...
if money is no object, i`d recommend the F200A. its probably the best FR around nowadays at that price range..
if money is no object, i`d recommend the F200A. its probably the best FR around nowadays at that price range..
F200A = $400. Ouch. I think he get fazed by that. I know he did not want to pay for Lowthers. Besides it is only 90db/1W.
Lets say $150 per side is what he can afford or to be more precise $150 per side is what I would recomend he spend after all this is his first DIY system.
Also i wonder if a 8" system would be too large for his bedroom. He does have the Act 1+Velodyne for his living room.
The room is 15' x 12' x 9' high. The speakers will be kept along the 15 ' wall flanking a 32" LCD TV. He was loking at a compact speaker say 8-9" square x 36" tall so I am looking at drivers that will work in about 22-25 liters.
Lets say $150 per side is what he can afford or to be more precise $150 per side is what I would recomend he spend after all this is his first DIY system.
Also i wonder if a 8" system would be too large for his bedroom. He does have the Act 1+Velodyne for his living room.
The room is 15' x 12' x 9' high. The speakers will be kept along the 15 ' wall flanking a 32" LCD TV. He was loking at a compact speaker say 8-9" square x 36" tall so I am looking at drivers that will work in about 22-25 liters.
If he is sure he was going to be using it with a sub I would skip the rear loaded horn and go for the fe167 or 168e sigma in a sealed enclosure. This sould intagrate much better than a backloaded horn, or BR enclosure. Just be sure the sub sounds alright to 100hz or whatever you need to go to.
Joe
Joe
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This is the FR curve of an FE167E in an 40" MLTL. The nearfield/farfield splice is at 522HZ. The is not the finished product. There is no stuffing, no filters and zero break-in. Is this not pretty close to full-range?
Bob
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I.D. 40x8.5x8.5in port 3x4in. Finish is MinWax Golden Pecan and three coats of MinWax Tung Oil Finish on quarter-cut red oak veneer.
Bob
Ft-1600
Those look great Bob. How does the Fostex driver do at high frequencies? Does it need a supertweeter to give it the '' air '' that some fullrangers seem to lack?
I`ve been admiring those tls of yours for a while now. Up to now i`ve only tried BR designs with the FX200s but i`m considering giving yours a try. Can you share the dimensions so i can try a set for myself?
Regards, Steve.
Those look great Bob. How does the Fostex driver do at high frequencies? Does it need a supertweeter to give it the '' air '' that some fullrangers seem to lack?
I`ve been admiring those tls of yours for a while now. Up to now i`ve only tried BR designs with the FX200s but i`m considering giving yours a try. Can you share the dimensions so i can try a set for myself?
Regards, Steve.
Steve,
I did a conventional taper TL for the F200A, not the FX200. Never worked with the FX200. If you can stand the freight, the bottom of the F200A in a TL is phenominal. Tops not bad, but a super tweeter would help. Better hurry, though. I understand that teh are soon to be out-of-print.
If you look at the trace above, the FE167E goes strong to ~13K, then is down 3dB to above 20K. It does beam though. A super tweeter firing off-axis is often a good bet.
Bob
I did a conventional taper TL for the F200A, not the FX200. Never worked with the FX200. If you can stand the freight, the bottom of the F200A in a TL is phenominal. Tops not bad, but a super tweeter would help. Better hurry, though. I understand that teh are soon to be out-of-print.
If you look at the trace above, the FE167E goes strong to ~13K, then is down 3dB to above 20K. It does beam though. A super tweeter firing off-axis is often a good bet.
Bob
Ft-1600
Those look great Bob. How does the Fostex driver do at high frequencies? Does it need a supertweeter to give it the '' air '' that some fullrangers seem to lack?
I`ve been admiring those tls of yours for a while now. Up to now i`ve only tried BR designs with the FX200s but i`m considering giving yours a try. Can you share the dimensions so i can try a set for myself?
Regards, Steve.
Those look great Bob. How does the Fostex driver do at high frequencies? Does it need a supertweeter to give it the '' air '' that some fullrangers seem to lack?
I`ve been admiring those tls of yours for a while now. Up to now i`ve only tried BR designs with the FX200s but i`m considering giving yours a try. Can you share the dimensions so i can try a set for myself?
Regards, Steve.
Bob Brines said:
we are looking at 42x10x10 outer dims considering 18mmm wood. just a bit larger than what my friend wants. he was looking at a 36"tall, 8" x 8" square.
Bob Brines said:
confused? will the F200A or FX200 be no longer produced? or are we talking about the 167?
so between the 3: 166, 167, 168 the 167 gets the nod for a small cabinet fullrange right? form what i understand so far the 168 was desinged for a horn. and the 167 is smoother than the 166. correct me if i am wrong.
43x10.5x10.5 actually. You might be able to shoe-horn an FE167E into 36x8x8, but F3 will be 50Hz or higher.
The F200A and F120A are reported discontinued. I don't know about the FX200. The FE series is back in production in China.
The FE167E is the one FE series driver with a Qts high enough to work in a BR or MLTL without resorting to a series resistor. All of the others are designed for back horns. I've never tried an FE166E because it won't work in the cabinets I design. Same goes for the 8"ers. The FE206E, the darling of the full-rangers, has way too low a Qts to work in a resonant cabinet. The FE207E is almost acceptable.
Bob
navin said:
You need to model your proposal. Putting a driver in too small a pipe has the same basic result as putting it in too small a BR. You will get a hump at and above cut-off. The roll-off will be quite sharp and 4th order. Room gain will only help 1/2 octave below cut-off and room gain may well make the speaker boomy at cut-off. Hoffmann's Iron Rule rules.
Bob
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