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Old 1st May 2004, 11:57 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally posted by pooge
If you want to compensate for the baffle loss, better to offset it with radiation resistance than electrical input.
Why my preferred BSC is a bi-pole.

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Old 2nd May 2004, 12:01 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally posted by pooge
A decent amp would maintain the voltage into 4 ohms
By that i assume you mean that a "decent" amp will double its power into 4 ohms vrs 8 ohms, then there aren't very many "decent" amps.... certainly a clear majority of amps sold or made today do not met this criterion.

There are many, many really good amps that don't meet this criterion.

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Old 3rd May 2004, 06:49 AM   #63
navin is offline navin  India
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I like the Carolina Audio jordans a lot. The thin JX92 tower seems perfect fro my need except if I was building a florr stander i would prefer a little more extension at both ends of the freq. spectrum.

I have 2 options.

(1) wall mounted speaker like B&W VM1 operating from 100hz+ or (2) a floor stander operating from 40Hz+

each of these should be able to deliver 95db at their F3 (100hz or 40Hz) with about 10W rms (my amps will be capable of about 28-30Wrms but I'd like to have some headroom)

the speaker choice (wall/floor) depends on how the furniture in our apt gets arrranged by my wife and her friend. considering that the builder has not even finished the building yet we have time.

I am trying to have both options ready so that i can begin to collect parts as soon as my speaker location is chosen.

in either case I would have to supplement the bass using a sub.
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Old 3rd May 2004, 06:52 PM   #64
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Default ok it is a go ahead...

I'm going to try the bipole jordans.

I threw together a small bipole with some RS drivers in a cardboard box tuned with a toilet paper roll.

)

suprisingly very nice sound. actually very effortless.

SOO...

question is:

What type of wood should I use for the enclosure??

A) MDF with Veneer?
B) Plywood with Veneer?
C) Real wood?

Thanks!!!
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Old 3rd May 2004, 07:07 PM   #65
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Default Re: ok it is a go ahead...

Quote:
Originally posted by AudioGeek
What type of wood should I use for the enclosure??

B) Plywood with Veneer?
Void free...

dave
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Old 3rd May 2004, 07:11 PM   #66
Colin is offline Colin  United Kingdom
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Dave - thanks for putting me right on the 100litre enclosure. Liked the design and may query you on it further when I plot my next JX125 enclosures...

Colin
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Old 3rd May 2004, 07:16 PM   #67
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Default plywood huh???

any good places for purchase?
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Old 2nd April 2013, 03:19 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
I haven't unleased my JX150s yet, so don't talk from personal experience, but i have reports that even FR the JX125 & 150 will outdo a JX92 -- no mean feat.

The FW168HP would be very interesting... with something smaller than the FE83. I don't have an opinion on the FW168N, but it looks good...

dave
I was considering the Fostex FW168N woofers for a project that was started then I used the woofers in another project and sold them. My problem is that in two catalogs the flange is listed at 180 mm but online at Madisound it is listed as 190 mm. I have seen the FW168HP listed as 190 mm. So is the online measurement a mistake that lists the FW168HP measurement for the FW168N?
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Old 2nd April 2013, 08:54 AM   #69
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Ye Gods, first post on this thread in nine years.

The frame diameter of the FW168N is listed as 190mm in the dimensioned drawing on Fostex's data sheet. Since it is probably safe to assume Fostex know the dimensions of their own products, that's the one I'd go with. This appears to be further confirmed by the fact that the FE168ESigma, which evidently uses a very similar frame (albeit with slightly smaller screw-heads), is also listed as 190mm in the dimensioned drawing on its data sheet.

Last edited by Scottmoose; 2nd April 2013 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 2nd April 2013, 12:30 PM   #70
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Talking Woke the neighbors again!

Sorry Scottmoose. I didn't mean to wake this thread from such a deep sleep. Thank you for the info.

Gary
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