Hello,
I just bought a pair of Pioneer Pro Series TS-B400PRO 4" 500W Bullet Tweeters. I connected the 4-ohm tweeter parallel to the Klipsch Forte III 8-ohm speaker high/mid terminals on the back of the speaker. I connected the Forte lower frequency terminal to my Yaqin tube amp 8-ohm tap.
The sound was amazing and everything worked for a few days. Then, one power tube broke, no more light. Then my two right channel CV181(6SN7) tubes generated a very loud hum and sent my bias meter all the way to the max. I had to replace these "defective" tubes and disconnect the tweeters, now everything works again.
Did I just blow the tubes piggybacking the new 4-Ohm tweeters to 8-ohm speakers or was it just a sheer coincidence? The Yaqin tube also has 4-ohm taps, should I connect the tweeters to them instead and leave the the 8-ohm taps connected to the Forte sharing a common ground/negative tap? Will I short the amp this way?
Appreciate your advice!
Thanks,
JT
I just bought a pair of Pioneer Pro Series TS-B400PRO 4" 500W Bullet Tweeters. I connected the 4-ohm tweeter parallel to the Klipsch Forte III 8-ohm speaker high/mid terminals on the back of the speaker. I connected the Forte lower frequency terminal to my Yaqin tube amp 8-ohm tap.
The sound was amazing and everything worked for a few days. Then, one power tube broke, no more light. Then my two right channel CV181(6SN7) tubes generated a very loud hum and sent my bias meter all the way to the max. I had to replace these "defective" tubes and disconnect the tweeters, now everything works again.
Did I just blow the tubes piggybacking the new 4-Ohm tweeters to 8-ohm speakers or was it just a sheer coincidence? The Yaqin tube also has 4-ohm taps, should I connect the tweeters to them instead and leave the the 8-ohm taps connected to the Forte sharing a common ground/negative tap? Will I short the amp this way?
Appreciate your advice!
Thanks,
JT
I'm not a tube amp user but AFAIK you can use either the 4R tap or 8R tap but not both at the same time.
Your speaker is supposed to be 8R compatible but individual sections could be well below that. Even if the impedance above 5.2kHz is 8R, when you parallel a 4R driver it drops to around 2R67 which most amps do not like. You may have to run it in series which would give around 12R.
Other than that you have the roll off the original tweeter with a filter network and the added tweeter needs a filter to crossover at the desired frequency.
Your speaker is supposed to be 8R compatible but individual sections could be well below that. Even if the impedance above 5.2kHz is 8R, when you parallel a 4R driver it drops to around 2R67 which most amps do not like. You may have to run it in series which would give around 12R.
Other than that you have the roll off the original tweeter with a filter network and the added tweeter needs a filter to crossover at the desired frequency.
I connected the tweeter in series as follows:
Amp + to Main Speaker +
Main speaker - to capacitor to Tweeter +
Tweeter - to Amp -
The Tweeter now sounds louder than the main speaker. Is this because I don't use a cross over?
Alternatively, if I get an 8-Ohm Tweeter and connect it parallel to the 8-Ohm Main Speaker, would that combination result in 4-Ohm that I can connect to the Amp's 4-Ohm tap safely?
Appreciate the help! Thanks!
Amp + to Main Speaker +
Main speaker - to capacitor to Tweeter +
Tweeter - to Amp -
The Tweeter now sounds louder than the main speaker. Is this because I don't use a cross over?
Alternatively, if I get an 8-Ohm Tweeter and connect it parallel to the 8-Ohm Main Speaker, would that combination result in 4-Ohm that I can connect to the Amp's 4-Ohm tap safely?
Appreciate the help! Thanks!
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