I'm in the process of designing powerful amplifiers for large projects but it will take some time to get them finished. For now I am looking for something that I can drive with around 1W-ish. I've read that full range drivers can do this. This would be perfect for me at the present time.
I want something that has high quality sound but is not too expensive. Can anyone recommend me a good diy full range kit? Size is not a concern, only sound quality and drive requirements. I listen to a mix of EDM, classical, orchestra, and rock.
I want something that has high quality sound but is not too expensive. Can anyone recommend me a good diy full range kit? Size is not a concern, only sound quality and drive requirements. I listen to a mix of EDM, classical, orchestra, and rock.
It’s not cheap, but I’m sure this will do the job.. instead of buying cheap and to replace later..
Lowther Fullrange DIY speaker kits. The world's best sound at prices anyone can afford.
Lowther Fullrange DIY speaker kits. The world's best sound at prices anyone can afford.
Too expensive, it would need to be something really special for me to spend that much. It's too bad something like the CBT24 kit doesn't have typical full range sensitivity, that would be ideal, I'd probably dish out the cash for that.
I don't need something that plays that loud, just something that has quality sound at medium volumes.
Um, I have access to a blade saw and standard tools but I've never built a cabinet and I don't know what is required to do so. If that gives you an idea.
The amp is a headphone amp that I built, I can tune up the idle current to give it a few watts of power.
Haha, I'm not sure about that
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You could always just ask some random carpenter to make a simple baffle with cutout. I am certain it would not add a lot to the material cost. Certainly cheaper than purchasing lots of tools and making a mess you'd have to clean up.
Just figure out what baffle dimensions you want to go for, take those measurements to the carpenter and get a price quote first.
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Oh! and use 18mm ply or better if you decide to go with the Fane 15".
Just figure out what baffle dimensions you want to go for, take those measurements to the carpenter and get a price quote first.
Edit:
Oh! and use 18mm ply or better if you decide to go with the Fane 15".
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IB= Infinite Baffle - theoretically the "enclosure" represents a large enough barrier between the front and rear output of the moving diaphram(s) that it could be considered infinite . Of course that means no way of using that rear energy.
BR= Bass Reflex - "vented" - can cover a very wide range of configurations
TL= Transmission Line - almost too widely misused to mean anything
SB= Sealed Box - self explanatory
then there's
FLH - front loaded horn
BLH - back loaded horn
and some very creative descriptions for hybrids / bastardizations of combinations of any of the above.
For an open baffle, the material probably only needs to be thick /stiff enough to support the driver without flexing. Size will determine how low you can go without requiring tons of EQ/power, which the driver must be able to handle. While some of the OB shown aren't huge, your current little 1 watt (ish)amp would not likely yield much SPL or dynamics.
BR= Bass Reflex - "vented" - can cover a very wide range of configurations
TL= Transmission Line - almost too widely misused to mean anything
SB= Sealed Box - self explanatory
then there's
FLH - front loaded horn
BLH - back loaded horn
and some very creative descriptions for hybrids / bastardizations of combinations of any of the above.
For an open baffle, the material probably only needs to be thick /stiff enough to support the driver without flexing. Size will determine how low you can go without requiring tons of EQ/power, which the driver must be able to handle. While some of the OB shown aren't huge, your current little 1 watt (ish)amp would not likely yield much SPL or dynamics.
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Note that while sensitivity ratings are certainly meaningful, they're not all made under the same conditions, so read carefully, and those circumstances may not relate to your actual listening environment. The size of room and listening distance will be major factors in the calculus of required power for any given system / configuration.
"Best" materials? - no absolute consensus there - I'm a big fan of Baltic Birch plywood - it costs more than MDF, but .......
Size/stiffness? - almost dangerous to generalize what would be ideal for all situations . Oh yeah, some of us go there a lot.
"Best" materials? - no absolute consensus there - I'm a big fan of Baltic Birch plywood - it costs more than MDF, but .......
Size/stiffness? - almost dangerous to generalize what would be ideal for all situations . Oh yeah, some of us go there a lot.
Ballpark it for me, I need some kind parameter to work off of.
What you tell me is what I know. You say Baltic berch Plywood is good. I'm assuming this is due to some stiffness factor?
How do I know how much surface area of this wood I need in order for it to dampen the vibrational energy?
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