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Good full range kit?
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Old 13th June 2018, 12:48 PM   #11
hellokitty123 is offline hellokitty123  United States
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Ah, I'm assuming I'm going to have to cut this hole myself
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Old 13th June 2018, 01:30 PM   #12
perceval is offline perceval  Taiwan
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Well... it's called DIYAudio for a reason!
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Old 13th June 2018, 01:37 PM   #13
KaffiMann is offline KaffiMann  Norway
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You could always just ask some random carpenter to make a simple baffle with cutout. I am certain it would not add a lot to the material cost. Certainly cheaper than purchasing lots of tools and making a mess you'd have to clean up.

Just figure out what baffle dimensions you want to go for, take those measurements to the carpenter and get a price quote first.

Edit:
Oh! and use 18mm ply or better if you decide to go with the Fane 15".

Last edited by KaffiMann; 13th June 2018 at 01:39 PM.
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Old 13th June 2018, 01:48 PM   #14
hellokitty123 is offline hellokitty123  United States
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Yeah, the Fane seems like a good idea. My uncle is a skilled craftsman. I may be able to get a baffle done for free if I get the materials. I just need to know the design and dimensions. Is there a rule for how big the baffle needs to be or anything else I should know?
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Old 13th June 2018, 03:48 PM   #15
phivates is online now phivates  United States
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OB needs space away from back and side walls. Then there's IB. BR. TL. SB.
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Old 13th June 2018, 03:51 PM   #16
hellokitty123 is offline hellokitty123  United States
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Lol you people and your acronyms. You're talking to a speaker design noob here. I have no idea what that means
Instead of room space I was referring to the design and dimensions of the baffle itself. Is there a certain size, angle, thickness, material parameter I should aim for?
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Old 13th June 2018, 04:03 PM   #17
chrisb is offline chrisb
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IB= Infinite Baffle - theoretically the "enclosure" represents a large enough barrier between the front and rear output of the moving diaphram(s) that it could be considered infinite . Of course that means no way of using that rear energy.
BR= Bass Reflex - "vented" - can cover a very wide range of configurations
TL= Transmission Line - almost too widely misused to mean anything
SB= Sealed Box - self explanatory

then there's

FLH - front loaded horn
BLH - back loaded horn

and some very creative descriptions for hybrids / bastardizations of combinations of any of the above.

For an open baffle, the material probably only needs to be thick /stiff enough to support the driver without flexing. Size will determine how low you can go without requiring tons of EQ/power, which the driver must be able to handle. While some of the OB shown aren't huge, your current little 1 watt (ish)amp would not likely yield much SPL or dynamics.
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Old 13th June 2018, 04:12 PM   #18
hellokitty123 is offline hellokitty123  United States
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What are the best materials I should look for?
Is there an audible effect of a larger/smaller baffle from reflections or such?
Stiffness aside is smaller or bigger more ideal?

The Fane driver is 101db/W, how many watts would I need for it do be what you consider "dynamic"?
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Old 13th June 2018, 04:26 PM   #19
chrisb is offline chrisb
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Note that while sensitivity ratings are certainly meaningful, they're not all made under the same conditions, so read carefully, and those circumstances may not relate to your actual listening environment. The size of room and listening distance will be major factors in the calculus of required power for any given system / configuration.

"Best" materials? - no absolute consensus there - I'm a big fan of Baltic Birch plywood - it costs more than MDF, but .......

Size/stiffness? - almost dangerous to generalize what would be ideal for all situations . Oh yeah, some of us go there a lot.
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Old 13th June 2018, 05:05 PM   #20
hellokitty123 is offline hellokitty123  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
Size/stiffness? - almost dangerous to generalize what would be ideal for all situations . Oh yeah, some of us go there a lot.
Ballpark it for me, I need some kind parameter to work off of.
What you tell me is what I know. You say Baltic berch Plywood is good. I'm assuming this is due to some stiffness factor?
How do I know how much surface area of this wood I need in order for it to dampen the vibrational energy?
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