Well, I have done one for the 15in Fane. Actually there's two, but the other will have to wait for another time. This thread is a dumping ground for misc. existing designs I'd done rather than new ones, but I had one of my very few spare moments, so a quick one-off. Nothing fancy here, just a sealed box. Anybody who knows their audio history will recognise the original inspiration (pictured), although the construction & internal dimensions are different, along with the driver configuration.
Not small by current standards, so obviously of limited appeal, but the Fane likes a big box; it's heading in a traditional direction in terms of its basic EM characteristics. No bad thing, so long as you treat it as such, and fewer compromises in alignment terms than a smaller cabinet. I've called it a large sealed; acoustically speaking even this isn't 'large' per se for the Fane, but it's probably pushing it for a lot -there's no way I could house a pair of these cabinets for e.g.
I imagine Dave will have a big Fonken in the offing, so I don't want to get too heavily involved with this sort of load. The size here is sufficient that step loss is pushed right down into the region where room-gain should help compensate; Qtc is moderate, in the 0.8 region depending on damping & how good the sealing is.
Not small by current standards, so obviously of limited appeal, but the Fane likes a big box; it's heading in a traditional direction in terms of its basic EM characteristics. No bad thing, so long as you treat it as such, and fewer compromises in alignment terms than a smaller cabinet. I've called it a large sealed; acoustically speaking even this isn't 'large' per se for the Fane, but it's probably pushing it for a lot -there's no way I could house a pair of these cabinets for e.g.
I imagine Dave will have a big Fonken in the offing, so I don't want to get too heavily involved with this sort of load. The size here is sufficient that step loss is pushed right down into the region where room-gain should help compensate; Qtc is moderate, in the 0.8 region depending on damping & how good the sealing is.
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Hi Scott, it's wide, but not too deep. We had some custom cabinetry made that makes placement impossible now, but I would have had no reservations about trying it out before. It's not as if micromonitors don't take up a lot of space, on stands and with inch-thick cables, placed out from a wall...
Did you see my pipe horn effort for the Fane over at the BIB-thread? I was thinking classic alignments as well and started out with the Olson corner horn. It turned into an off-set driver, down/rear-firing parabolic horn. Placed in a corner and meaured at 1m distance, lower response is below 30Hz really flat. At the listening position, room gain adds "a bit."
With some EQ for the bass and the rising/peaky mid-treble, it has turned into fascinating loudspeaker. It's exquisite on timbre and sound character of acoustic instruments. Very fine detail, you can pinpoint individual string players in a symphony orchestra so to speak. And the sudden dynamics, not just sudden loud but also decay into silence is beautiful. I listen a wide range of music from classical philharmonic to reggae. It does it all and without sweat strain.
It's not your typical musical instrument/PA fullrange driver that struggles to reach 7kHz. This is genuine real and enjoyable sound playback.
Did you see my pipe horn effort for the Fane over at the BIB-thread? I was thinking classic alignments as well and started out with the Olson corner horn. It turned into an off-set driver, down/rear-firing parabolic horn. Placed in a corner and meaured at 1m distance, lower response is below 30Hz really flat. At the listening position, room gain adds "a bit."
With some EQ for the bass and the rising/peaky mid-treble, it has turned into fascinating loudspeaker. It's exquisite on timbre and sound character of acoustic instruments. Very fine detail, you can pinpoint individual string players in a symphony orchestra so to speak. And the sudden dynamics, not just sudden loud but also decay into silence is beautiful. I listen a wide range of music from classical philharmonic to reggae. It does it all and without sweat strain.
It's not your typical musical instrument/PA fullrange driver that struggles to reach 7kHz. This is genuine real and enjoyable sound playback.
PS: I'm not sensitive about my technical knowledge and ability to translate a simulation to a cabinet. If you have criticism or suggestions for improvement, they are more than welcome.
(The FH3/FH-XL was in the back of my mind when I starting re-rolling the Olson into an off-set driver folded pipe. I didn't think you'd do a FH-15, so got busy myself.
! )
(The FH3/FH-XL was in the back of my mind when I starting re-rolling the Olson into an off-set driver folded pipe. I didn't think you'd do a FH-15, so got busy myself.
! )
For non-sinister reasons out of my control I'm losing internet access for a while as of the 25th of this month. Will be back when I can. In the meantime though, getting a few bits complete while I can.
On that basis: I had a couple of requests for MLTLs for the new Alpair 7MS & 11MS units that are more compact than the pensils or the tall box in a post above for the 11MS.
They who ask shall sometimes receive (time permitting ) so attached under the usual conditions.
7MS first. Quite nice, alignment targets a bit more extension than the pensil, without quite as much gain through the mid-upper bass, & with a slightly more conventional impedance load. Still mild though, an easy load. Name your poison.
Imperial & metric attached.
Shamelessly thieving Troels's text approach, Questions with the answer 'yes':
-Can I use MDF? (if you really, really must, but a quality multiply is preferred)
-Can I use xyz wire or binding posts? (providing you don't raise series R by > 0.2ohm)?
-Can I use acoustastuff, BAF etc. for the lagging?
-Can I omit the over-sized plinth? (providing you maintain a doubled baseplate)
-Can I tilt the enclosure back to angle the driver toward the listening position?
-Can I build a false base into the bottom to raise it up a bit? (although it rather goes against the object of a compact box).
Questions with the answer 'no'
-Can I omit the doubled top & front baffle?
-Can I move the driver?
-Can I move the vent?
-Do I have to use spikes?
On that basis: I had a couple of requests for MLTLs for the new Alpair 7MS & 11MS units that are more compact than the pensils or the tall box in a post above for the 11MS.
They who ask shall sometimes receive (time permitting
) so attached under the usual conditions. 7MS first. Quite nice, alignment targets a bit more extension than the pensil, without quite as much gain through the mid-upper bass, & with a slightly more conventional impedance load. Still mild though, an easy load. Name your poison.
Imperial & metric attached.
Shamelessly thieving Troels's text approach, Questions with the answer 'yes':
-Can I use MDF? (if you really, really must, but a quality multiply is preferred)
-Can I use xyz wire or binding posts? (providing you don't raise series R by > 0.2ohm)?
-Can I use acoustastuff, BAF etc. for the lagging?
-Can I omit the over-sized plinth? (providing you maintain a doubled baseplate)
-Can I tilt the enclosure back to angle the driver toward the listening position?
-Can I build a false base into the bottom to raise it up a bit? (although it rather goes against the object of a compact box).
Questions with the answer 'no'
-Can I omit the doubled top & front baffle?
-Can I move the driver?
-Can I move the vent?
-Do I have to use spikes?
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And for the Alpair 11MS.
Similar approach to the above; aims for a bit more extension than the pensil, without quite as much gain through the mid-upper bass, and with a more conventional impedance (again, not particularly reactive). Back to naming those poisons.
Following above, questions with the answer 'yes'
-Can I use MDF? (if you really, really must, but a quality multiply is strongly preferred)
-Can I use xyz wire or binding posts? (providing you don't raise series R by > 0.2ohm)
-Can I use acoustastuff, BAF etc. for the lagging?
-Can I omit the over-sized plinth? (providing you maintain a doubled baseplate)
-Can I tilt the enclosure to angle the driver to the desired axis?
Questions with the answer 'no'
-Can I omit the doubled top & front baffle?
-Can I move the driver?
-Can I move the vent?
-Do I have to use spikes?
Imperial & metric sketches attached. Poor quality, but I can't plague Dave constantly & they're not really rocket science.
Similar approach to the above; aims for a bit more extension than the pensil, without quite as much gain through the mid-upper bass, and with a more conventional impedance (again, not particularly reactive). Back to naming those poisons.
Following above, questions with the answer 'yes'
-Can I use MDF? (if you really, really must, but a quality multiply is strongly preferred)
-Can I use xyz wire or binding posts? (providing you don't raise series R by > 0.2ohm)
-Can I use acoustastuff, BAF etc. for the lagging?
-Can I omit the over-sized plinth? (providing you maintain a doubled baseplate)
-Can I tilt the enclosure to angle the driver to the desired axis?
Questions with the answer 'no'
-Can I omit the doubled top & front baffle?
-Can I move the driver?
-Can I move the vent?
-Do I have to use spikes?
Imperial & metric sketches attached. Poor quality, but I can't plague Dave constantly & they're not really rocket science.
Attachments
And here's a different one. This is for the 6in Sonido unit with the AlNiCo motor. Sonido get less coverage than they probably should here.
Nothing exciting; straightforward BR assuming an amplifier with a modest output impedance. Voltage source, it's a quasi-EBS. With something like a PP valve, single-ended SS or valve SET with a stiff power supply & an output impedance up to about 2.5ohms, should be quite nice. Doesn't get hyper-low, but not bad for a modest room or for those who want a standmount with a moderate footprint. Fairly compact, very stiff enclosure with the doubled panels.
Following the above, questions with the answer 'yes'
-Can I use MDF? (if you really, really must, but a quality multiply is strongly preferred)
-Can I use xyz wire or binding posts?
-Can I use acoustastuff, BAF etc. for the lagging?
-Can I put the vent on the front panel?
Questions with the answer 'no'
-Can I omit the doubled panels? (this was a bit of a design objective. If you really must, single thickness 25mm and hope I don't find out)
-Can I move the driver? (there is a little latitude here)
-Can I move the vent? (ditto)
Nothing exciting; straightforward BR assuming an amplifier with a modest output impedance. Voltage source, it's a quasi-EBS. With something like a PP valve, single-ended SS or valve SET with a stiff power supply & an output impedance up to about 2.5ohms, should be quite nice. Doesn't get hyper-low, but not bad for a modest room or for those who want a standmount with a moderate footprint. Fairly compact, very stiff enclosure with the doubled panels.
Following the above, questions with the answer 'yes'
-Can I use MDF? (if you really, really must, but a quality multiply is strongly preferred)
-Can I use xyz wire or binding posts?
-Can I use acoustastuff, BAF etc. for the lagging?
-Can I put the vent on the front panel?
Questions with the answer 'no'
-Can I omit the doubled panels? (this was a bit of a design objective. If you really must, single thickness 25mm and hope I don't find out)
-Can I move the driver? (there is a little latitude here)
-Can I move the vent? (ditto)
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Geeze , Scott, the q&n A11MS prototype I blasted together for Dave’s event were only single layer of 18mm on fronts - with of course some bracing between panels, and they sounded quite fine, at least to my ears.
Out of curiosity, whence the “Water Buffalo”?, these drivers are everything but ponderous
Out of curiosity, whence the “Water Buffalo”?, these drivers are everything but ponderous
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Idle whim really. I like water buffalo. Amiable sort of creature, wallowing away and enjoying some quality veg.
As for the panels -let's just say 'if enough is enough, then too much is just right.' Some people struggle with the bracing, so kicking up the stiffness of the panels themselves helps, plus the extra mass on the front baffles gives the driver something to work against. At least, it does in my mind...
As for the panels -let's just say 'if enough is enough, then too much is just right.' Some people struggle with the bracing, so kicking up the stiffness of the panels themselves helps, plus the extra mass on the front baffles gives the driver something to work against. At least, it does in my mind...
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Was there ever a design for a lab for an A7.3? I know I asked a long time ago, but I haven't been on these pages for a while. I just played my Frugal Horns with those drivers for the first time in a long time and I still don't think they sound right and have always had it in the back of my mind to build a different cabinet, and I like the Lance.
I'm retiring in a little over a year and I'll need some projects.
I'm retiring in a little over a year and I'll need some projects.
@Scottmoose, I'm in the USA and would like to know where I can purchase the Sonido SFR-175A driver???
AFAIK they're sold direct, like a lot of smaller companies are obliged to do these days -see the bottom of their 'About Us' page: About Us - sonido.hu