I just want to keep the original spider and surround. make some adjustments and recone.
In a pan for 5 minutes full heat with a cover,
Danger: Neodymium must lost magnetism, Use this recipee at your own risk,
YouTube
works only with a few drivers, I just overcooked 4 of them and not eatable now, BE CAREFUL !!!
In a pan for 5 minutes full heat with a cover,
Danger: Neodymium must lost magnetism, Use this recipee at your own risk,
YouTube
works only with a few drivers, I just overcooked 4 of them and not eatable now, BE CAREFUL !!!
Last edited:
That's insane.
While ago, when i had an old fullrange rubbing the coil, i had my own procedure to fix them. I removed dust cap, allowing me access to the voice coil and magnet gap, i inserted voxed paper, you know the one which holds you cassette tape stickers, or march of pennies address stickers, then gently moistured the cone and spider, making it all loose...then let it dry for few days. Once voxy paper removed, voice coil naturally stays in right place centered, mostly.
While ago, when i had an old fullrange rubbing the coil, i had my own procedure to fix them. I removed dust cap, allowing me access to the voice coil and magnet gap, i inserted voxed paper, you know the one which holds you cassette tape stickers, or march of pennies address stickers, then gently moistured the cone and spider, making it all loose...then let it dry for few days. Once voxy paper removed, voice coil naturally stays in right place centered, mostly.
It works on *some* speakers, but you can´t modify much, if anything at all (besides recentering if that was the problem).
Often spider to frame, cone edge or suspension to frame and cardboard gasket to cone edge are glued with white vinylic carpenter´s type glue, which can redissolve in boiling water.
What you did.
But sadly you will not be able to dissolve voice coil to spider and cone joint because on modern speakers it´s either Epoxy or sometimes some kind of thick Krazy Glue (cyanoacrilate),so you will not be able to "mod" anything, only recone with all fresh components.
In any case, congratulations for having rediscovered this on your own.
When I was a kid (think the 60´s and early 70´s) , cheap speaker factories kept large vats which they filled with speakers to be repaired and very hot water ... next day they could safely separate *all* components, including voice coils, because the "universal" glue used everywhere was vinylic.
But those were cheap 5 to 15W speakers, so white glue was enough.
Often spider to frame, cone edge or suspension to frame and cardboard gasket to cone edge are glued with white vinylic carpenter´s type glue, which can redissolve in boiling water.
What you did.
But sadly you will not be able to dissolve voice coil to spider and cone joint because on modern speakers it´s either Epoxy or sometimes some kind of thick Krazy Glue (cyanoacrilate),so you will not be able to "mod" anything, only recone with all fresh components.
In any case, congratulations for having rediscovered this on your own.
When I was a kid (think the 60´s and early 70´s) , cheap speaker factories kept large vats which they filled with speakers to be repaired and very hot water ... next day they could safely separate *all* components, including voice coils, because the "universal" glue used everywhere was vinylic.
But those were cheap 5 to 15W speakers, so white glue was enough.
Good info can be found by googling:
curie point
Perhaps add the specific magnet type and you may get some info on what temperature to stay under.
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