FH mk3 vs. XL, sound quality

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frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
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If the sB extends beyond the sides it should be shaped at the rear so that it more closely resembles a tear drop (like the B&W nautilus midRange head). The sB in the plans is a vestigal version but a paint to build. The rectangle is just simple.

A circle with no trailing edge on the back is bad, an elipse is bad but still problematic.

This is a simplistic approach on Aiko. The height means we didn’t have to worry about the top, and still could be better — if the side wings tapered all the way to the back and it had a bigger roundover.

The effective width determines where the baffle step starts and with the FH3 has to be carefully mated with the extra gain of the horn part. Th esize of the roundover determines how smooth the transition is.

dave
 
Luigi - if you’ve not already done so, treat yourself to a really good carbide tipped blade - the highest tooth count you can find for the blade diameter. Don’t be surprised if it costs more than the equivalent of $100 Cdn - unless you’re not planning on ever cutting another piece of sheet goods on that saw again, it’ll be worth every penny.

Yes, the trailing tapered returns on Aiko’s elliptical SB were far easier to draw than to build, and IIRC, I never executed the full extent of the concept. A simple rectangular plate for the FH3 should be a breeze.
 
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So last week a pair of Alpair 7.3s arrived, and I ripped out the CHR70s and replaced them with the similarly sized A7s. Replaced junk wire with some Dueland hook up wire.

Even without being run in the A7s are a quite a step up on the CHRs, and they're already rivalling the A10Ps in the XLs I also have. Nice detail, nice bass and the impression of a more complete top end too.

Thanks for the heads up on these Dave. They're impressive little wonders, both the drivers and the enclosures.
 
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