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Woden Falcon Build
Woden Falcon Build
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Old 5th March 2018, 10:44 PM   #1
jdrouin is offline jdrouin  United States
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Default Woden Falcon Build

I wasn’t planning on any wood projects but came across some 3/4” Lauan multi-ply at Lowe’s that had purplish color and interesting grain patterns. It struck me that it would look good with the milky grey cones of a pair of FF105WK I have lying around, so I bought a 2x4 panel and made the cuts today.

I had debated whether to make a pair of l’Stylo 105s, but the low driver height and desire to improve upon the questionably made Woden Shrikes I knocked out a couple years ago prompted the decision to cement the woodworking skills I’ve developed since then.

These will be stand mounted at one end (short wall) of my home office, which is 18’L x 7.5’W x 9.17’H. Signal wire will be 24awg solid CAT5. Amplification is Apple Lossless files ripped from CD, played from my iMac into a breadboarded SET amp (depending on where whimsy takes me, will either be a 300B or 6CU6 next week).

I’m getting better with my dinky table saw. The old ikea table that was my desk for 17 years until I made one last Fall is now doing outflow duty on rip cuts, while a board in the Black & Dekker Workmate supports long planks during cross cuts. Not to worry about the scorch marks. I always make exterior pieces a little large so as to perfect them with the flush trim bit in the router.

Tomorrow I’ll cut and chamfer the driver holes, drill the binding post holes, and cut the biscuit slots.

Finishing will be interesting. The grain is so open and deep that I think sanding would probably ruin it. At most I’d apply some natural Danish oil, but my guess is that simply applying some polyurethane to the unsanded bare wood will look best. We’ll see what the test scraps look like.

Anyone had good results finishing “purple” Lauan ply?
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Last edited by jdrouin; 5th March 2018 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 5th March 2018, 11:03 PM   #2
chrisb is offline chrisb
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If you can get your hands on some real veneer or edgebanding tape (unglued), and band the exposed edges before assembly, I think you'd get a very tidy job.

As for finishing the Meranti plywood - yup, I'd not get too crazy trying to sand out the depth of grain, and a few coats of spar varnish applied with foam brush would be probably your best bet. It doesn't take oil finishes such as Watco, etc particularly well.
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Old 5th March 2018, 11:09 PM   #3
jdrouin is offline jdrouin  United States
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Spar varnish, neat idea -- I saw an OSB table that someone finished with spar varnish, which looked really good. Will try that on some test scrap.
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Old 6th March 2018, 08:10 AM   #4
paul burchell is offline paul burchell  Canada
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A coat of sanding sealer(shellac) then a sanding with 220 grit will help seal and raise the grain to help the varnish flow on much better.
You should still give the raw wood a light hand sanding.
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Old 6th March 2018, 04:35 PM   #5
chrisb is offline chrisb
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yeah, I guess it was a mistake to take that as a given - it's just that trying to get rid of the deep grain pores on the Meranti is a fool's errand
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Old 6th March 2018, 09:56 PM   #6
paul burchell is offline paul burchell  Canada
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Ive never seen meranti in 3/4"ply usually just the thinner 1/4 underlay.
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Old 7th March 2018, 05:33 PM   #7
chrisb is offline chrisb
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The 3/4" is one of several options we have here for "shop/ core" ply. Let's just say that when buying budget import plywood, you get what you pay for. Our sawyer has a list of defects, including foreign objects found impeded within the layers:

- sheets delaminated after cutting
- gravel
- zipper

no kidding about the last two.

The main / scoring blade for the production beam saw cost approx $500 per set, and either of those last two can wreak havoc on the carbide.
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Old 8th March 2018, 08:45 AM   #8
paul burchell is offline paul burchell  Canada
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I recall the interior slab doors of the 60s or 70s using a simular type ply for the finish face. I just use it to make pattern templets pieces for curved work and such.
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Old 8th March 2018, 04:50 PM   #9
chrisb is offline chrisb
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Indeed the 1/8" are still locally referred to as door skins.
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Old 8th March 2018, 05:00 PM   #10
jdrouin is offline jdrouin  United States
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Thanks for all these finishing suggestions. The previous owners of our house were sailors and left some spar varnish in the garage. Tomorrow I'll have time to cut the biscuit slots and will do up some test scrap as well.

A question just occurred to me: Since this build uses material that is 1/4" thicker than spec'd in Scott's original design, might it be worthwhile to chamfer or flare the vent opening at the back? Say, if I used the 45* chamfer bit or the miter saw for an even shallower angle at the top of the vent, or both top and bottom, keeping a 1/2" depth through the straight part? Wonder if that would help to spread or disperse the bass image and improve soundstage.

I imagine such a change would be negligible to inaudible, but the mind starts thinking about all the little details...

PS -- Paul: I enjoyed looking at the speaker builds at your website. Really beautiful work. Now you've got me interested in doing an A10P or A12P build after this one. Are those drivers actually useful down to 45hz?
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