There can only be one!

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Internal dimensions of the chamber is 20cm wide, 25cm deep, 30cm tall, Port is still 3cm from rear wall and 3cm distance from top(or bottom pending on personal preference) of enclosure. Calculated with 18mm material the external measurements should be within ca 237mm (width) x 287mm (depth) x 385mm (height).

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Corrected attachment.
80hz should be a good point to start trying out xo frequency to a sub, room dependant, might be lucky and be able to match it well down to 70hz in some rooms, in other rooms you may have to go up to 110hz. Also depends on the placement of the sub.
 

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No worries, try it without sub first.

Do not know how you normally match a sub to your speakers, but if using a single sub this has worked for me in the past:
After listening for a couple days try and match the sub in, the goal is to get more low end extension without being able to notice that the sub is there at all. In other words, you listen for the speakers for a few days first, to get a feel for the sound, then set the sub somewhere between the speakers, adjust to maybe 80hz, play around with phase until you hardly notice the transition, then fine tune with frequency again until the xo point "vanishes".

My vote still goes to stereo bass though.
 
... Actually, if you use reduce port size further to 2cm vs previously 3cm you will get nearly as good low end as the bigger box, fb 48hz, slow roll off to 50hz, group delay peaking lower in frequency at 40hz, and if you use LM1875 at max power, you are within xmax and particle velocity will also be only 14m/s at 40hz.

I apologize for any confusion. Just got time to crunch the numbers harder, the one previously posted was a bit rushed.
In-room you might get response down to 38hz (perhaps a few hz lower even) pending on placement, even though fb is 48hz. Quite surprising for a 16 litre box. Do note the slow roll-off, you lose a bit of output down low, but it will be a very detailed bass.
 

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Computer setup

The speaker stands were to match the now dead iMac on the floor to the right of the desk. Hi I B3s full range. For scale that is a 28” uhd monitor. I had a 9” cube with 5.5 inch woofer under the desk but gave it to my patient for a little system I did for her. Might go back to the little woofer as ther isn’t much room under desk?
 

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Yes I have cut all panels. Not assembled yet. So I can cut to new size. Again, the sim graphs are wasted on me. I don’t know enough to tell from good or bad. I can see a bump or dip in a frequency plot, but that’s about it. Nice program that hornresp. So is the last speaker a horn of some kind?

What would the graphs say if you made it taller and not quite as deep?
Say 22 inches high
 
Compare

Another pic to show sizes. The little 2 way is approx. size of the fr B3 in previous pics. This is the first box size you provided but using 3/4” mdf.

I know....most everyone is thinking, so what’s the problem, right. Big macho speakers are cool! Not if you can’t listen to them because you have no electricity living under a bridge somewhere! Lol.

Also, those deep boxes would help with early reflections of that monitor, and such. But they would also wall a Pearson of as in a cubicle.lol
 

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... Where's the port? Or is it just to show sizes?
If you want an even smaller box then just make a 8 to 10 liter sealed box, dimensions are not hugely important, so choose whatever suits you. Fill it up with damping material.
You'll get very little bass output, so then you're heavily dependant of a sub.

Edit:
And sub integration will be slightly more difficult when you have a single sub, especially when you move the xo frequency higher up.

Edit2:
That last speakeris not a horn, it's just the same but with a narrower port.

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Looks like you're moving into the garage allready...? :)
Is that the little subs I see in the middle of the picture, background area?
 
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Yes Kent it is just for size comparison. Good eyes, they are the 13” subs, one sealed and one with pair of pr’s. Did u see the klipsch floor standers further in? I have the plate amp at 50hz crossover as they go pretty low on there own. Also the volume at 1/3 (gain that is).

As far as enclosure size is concerned I am having hard time. I worry about letting size constraints hurting the magic that these 4 drivers are capable of. Your second enclosure size is a more realistic size than the first. I think I can manage that and put a desk divider stand under them to raise them up. Could even be not as deep as speaker to give more real estate to desk? Would it hurt anything to place the driver more toward the top of the enclosure or does it need to be centered mid baffle?
 
Going over the cut list and even though smaller by 3” tall and 3” deep, still big I guess?

If it’s not too difficult or time consuming what would be the sealed dimensions? I was told 7 liters required and min of 7” internal width? I wonder how that sims? How low it goes,etc. in general doesn’t going sealed help with limiting excursion, can play louder before distortion, etc?
 
7"x 8"x 8" internal measurements works out to ca 7 liters. You probably have to cut the sub in ca 110hz then.

...
It's a bit of a waste though, the W5-2143 are capable of much more in a different type of enclosure. And it is quite possible you would not miss the sub.
The difference in sound quality is not big enough to be relevant for your application. On the other hand: You would benefit from a lower xo point.
 
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So Kent,thanks a ton by the way! So, we have the smallest enclosure at 7wx8tx8D internal. Wow that is a far bit smaller then even your second design. I suppose the box Q is far away from the best of .707?

Can we get a happy medium between box #2 and the sealed box, sealed of ported whichever is best? I know I am asking a lot from your time and Imappreciate it tremendously! Thanks Kent, what do you want to call your design?
 
well, that was just a sealed box, so not any type of design as such.

Here you go.
Dimensions of the internal enclosure is 180mm wide x 220mm deep, still the same 300mm height, port is 20mm from internal rear wall and 20mm from top of the enclosure so same distance all the way. It is ruler flat to 80hz, and is good for playing a bit loud together with a sub. Here's also a very basic drawing of how it's supposed to go together. If you want, you can make the port with a 1.5cm aperture instead of 2cm, it will not be ruler flat anymore, but will have a slow roll-off and a lower fb tuning, with the added benefit of further reduced group delay and phase variations.

... Name? I do not know. It is just a basic variation of standard bass reflex done right. If it should have any particular name I'd like to call it K56 style bass reflex, applies to all different sizes, even my 129 liter ones.
 

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if i may ask, the wider port will play a bit loud? or handle more spl before cone breakup?

the narrower port height will play as loud, but not be as flat to 80hz but will extend a little lower (give a feeling of more or deeper bass?

K56BR is the ONE i will build, not sure about the decision for port size though. Will one sound better without sub, but the other will integrate better? Is the narrower slot what Dave with P10 was referring to by High-r ? does r stand for resistance? I worry somewhat about excursion limits. But quality is before and above all else.

Dave has graciously given me plans for the MA Pluvia 7, Kent has given me plans for the TB W5-2143, I will purchase the materials tomorrow and build asap. I think the MA's due on Tuesday(tomorrow!). Off the next two days. The little 2 ways are primed and almost ready for paint-finish sand.

thanks everyone for all the good information and valuable assistance. I will post progress to this forum, with pics and impressions. stay tuned, taking bets now on which one will win!
 
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