mr Chang, thanks for the tang band recommendation. Why havn't I hit on that with google search for best full range diy? I followed the link to Parts express and read up on the reviews and questions, and have a couple more questions. My biggest concern is directivity or lack of dispersion mentioned off axis? some use open baffle to help? It will mostly be used nearfield but I like to fill the room too and stand up and walk around the room. will the treble disappear then? I like the sensitivity for the lm1875 at 20-30W. what size box do you have them in? my current setup with zaph hivi have driver center at 15.5" or ear level. I have not much in the way of width to play with either, probably 8" for each speaker, maybe some more. they get great reviews sans one guy got a bad one. I was thinking a mini tower? I will try and get a pic of my current setup.
thanks again CHang
thanks again CHang
NIgel! My girl is right, I am obsessed with speaker and cheap amp building. Can't help myself, but she is right. Time to stop. I presume you are womanless! Only reason I can build one more set is because she made the mistake of telling me she never liked the ones I currently have. Not because of the sound mind you. Because I put them in a stand to raise them to ear level and I painted them metallic silver to match my (now dead) Apple Imac. I admit they are ugly!
i agree about the hardship of working with oak!
thanks for the reminder of oak difficulty. the mahogany is dare I say even worse! Don't take glueing well and is tough as nails to cut. Wouldn't make them solid just use wood accents I think?
Always make sure you keep your woman happy, coz for sure if you don't someone else will !
One advantage of living alone is being able to spend as much time as I like on making audio gear. A woman just wouldn't tolerate the time I spend on it.
I have 7 large speakers in my living room. A woman would just freak out at that !
7liters dont tell me anything as I am metric poor
so I need to keep the size small for desktop real estate, and WAF but need driver at ear level at 15-16 above the desk width around 6,7,8" about max. Do you thing the little drivers sounds as full as the bigger4, or 5 inch drivers? that little fe85wk gets a lot of press in internet world! but not much power handling. I do like the wow factor of something so little sounding so BIG, tho. how small/big a box would you predict the tang band to go in without causing sound to bounce back thru the cone? I saw you giving min widths for other drivers in...FH3 or fonkens if I remember? I know you said optimum 7L but I have no idea what size 7 liters is. so dims in inches if that is not too much trouble?
yep
especially when you pour 300 watts to them! do you have any neighbors?
happy wife (girlfriend) happy life.
especially when you pour 300 watts to them! do you have any neighbors?
happy wife (girlfriend) happy life.
is 2db bump at 200hz easy to hear? does it equal boomy bass? is a Q 0f .707 the magic number? soo many variables. So, don't u just need a slightly bigger box then? what would be the sound of the tang band sealed? smooth, tight? just not as low? what is a good crossover frequency to a single 8 inch sub? is below 60hz the golden rule to prevent localization? I really would like more input on the tang band Mr Chang referred to as the price point is around $100 and there is one really rave review that ticks all the boxes for me? what about open baffle? never heard it. Would my sub integrate? I am so nervous about getting this last one right
There are more options,
Than going cold turkey.
Might try a separate space, for your obses-
excuse me,
hobby.
Some miles away -
(inTampa)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This yellow building, might make a really nice shop,
Listening room combination.
The neighborhood around this looks like some
upward financial happening, as well.
Might be a worthwhile investment .
the possibilities,
Are huge.
Only took , maybe a minute and a half,
to find this On satellite maps.
Attachments
For XOing to something below and using the sealed roll-off Q=0.707 is the magic number. Q over that is underdamped, and as it gets larger gets boomy. Since you want to XO below were a single sub is not an issue, you want a sealed box to reach that 80-100 Hz.
I haven’t heard the 5”mentioned, but we have a similar 4” and well pleasant it wa snot to my taste, too coloured. You may have gotten few hits googling them as i think Mr Chang is their prime booster.
The smaller a driver, tpically the dispersion gets better, but much is determined by the cone shape. Fuller usually means solid midbass (40-80 Hz) and upper bass (80-160). The 3” will be missing in action for midbass, and upper bass might be found lacking — we moved the XO in our FF85wKeN WAWs up from 160-180 Hz to 240-250 Hz because of (some) comments that upper bass was a little weak.
Power handling — particularily in a near-field system (and generally in home hifi systems)) is pretty much immaterial. Besides that there is no way to compare them because there is no standard for measuring or specifying the number.
dave
I haven’t heard the 5”mentioned, but we have a similar 4” and well pleasant it wa snot to my taste, too coloured. You may have gotten few hits googling them as i think Mr Chang is their prime booster.
The smaller a driver, tpically the dispersion gets better, but much is determined by the cone shape. Fuller usually means solid midbass (40-80 Hz) and upper bass (80-160). The 3” will be missing in action for midbass, and upper bass might be found lacking — we moved the XO in our FF85wKeN WAWs up from 160-180 Hz to 240-250 Hz because of (some) comments that upper bass was a little weak.
Power handling — particularily in a near-field system (and generally in home hifi systems)) is pretty much immaterial. Besides that there is no way to compare them because there is no standard for measuring or specifying the number.
dave
I'd give my left nut to own a shop that sold my amplifiers and speakers (but only stereo).
great lesson
Dave, thanks for the education an taking the time to explain the fundamentals of sound and driver selection. Now I know what mid bass is! so the beaming issue gets worse with larger drivers or not well shaped cones? IS that why Zaph picked 3" for the best full range driver then? I read that long ago and seam to recall that is what he eluded to? Smaller than 3 and no midbass or excursion limits reached easily, larger is another issue, I think high end limits?
surprised that there isn't more suggestions for 'there can only be one". will do some more googling on the tang band 5" for more info. Still undecided at present time. You have helped me immensely thus far. Also will see how big 7liters is for size. And go back and read what size you spec'd for the A7.3 thanks.
Dave, thanks for the education an taking the time to explain the fundamentals of sound and driver selection. Now I know what mid bass is! so the beaming issue gets worse with larger drivers or not well shaped cones? IS that why Zaph picked 3" for the best full range driver then? I read that long ago and seam to recall that is what he eluded to? Smaller than 3 and no midbass or excursion limits reached easily, larger is another issue, I think high end limits?
surprised that there isn't more suggestions for 'there can only be one". will do some more googling on the tang band 5" for more info. Still undecided at present time. You have helped me immensely thus far. Also will see how big 7liters is for size. And go back and read what size you spec'd for the A7.3 thanks.
don't know about the series but the line from the movie should read
"there can be only one!"
yes, didn't want copy write infringement! lol. As of now I am going to go with the tang band w5=2143 but I cant find any enclosure plans. I have looked all morning for them and am blurry eyed.
I see Xki has a comment about them in a scaled version of the karlsonator
Bjorn something has some info about a tabaq or something?
Dave has some mention of them in?
the problem in searching the internet is other TB drivers get into the mix and difficult to sort out.
I am exhausted, nap time I guess.
I see Xki has a comment about them in a scaled version of the karlsonator
Bjorn something has some info about a tabaq or something?
Dave has some mention of them in?
the problem in searching the internet is other TB drivers get into the mix and difficult to sort out.
I am exhausted, nap time I guess.
There is an XKi W5-2143 plan somewhere in XKi thread.
Plan words at least:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...itio-karlson-6th-bandpass-73.html#post5196622
Plan words at least:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...itio-karlson-6th-bandpass-73.html#post5196622
As I mentioned in my early post, every fullranger presents a set of compromises, and how much weight is given to each compromise depends on the particular listener. As to the concern about directivity, it is an inherent problem of fullrange drivers. This issue does not bother me too much for multiple reasons. I think the most important one is actually about expectations. I don't expect to get the highs when I listen to the speakers off axis. If I move around the room, I just "imaging" that I am not in the best listening position (e.g., blocked by a crowd, not in direct sight, outside the door of the venue, etc.) for the music event depicted by the music being played back, so the sound is supposed to be compromised. In that situation, I still ask the question of whether the sound is still somewhat "realistic" to me, and having a good reproduction in the mid and bass is so much more important to answering that question than having all the highs.
An open baffle is not going to help the dispersion. I have tried the W5-2143 drivers on OB's sitting on woofer modules, and I like the results. Nevertheless, the OB's are just too wide. I normally use 24"-wide baffles, and even I find it hard to find the space for them. If you do want to try OB's, however, you can try adding back-firing tweeters to enhance the high frequencies and spaciousness.
The boxes in which my W5-2143 drivers are in now are recycled from some cheap BestBuy speakers. They are about 8.5" wide, and perhaps around 12" high, with a front port. They sit on two bass modules and from a pair of tower speakers. They are powered (bi-amped) by a Sure Electronics 4-channel 100W-channel class D amp.
Cheers,
Kurt
Well, less dispersion can be an improvement.
I'm angling in my foam wings in front of my tweet to prevent side wall reflections.
Sounds better even from the back room.
More often than not, horn guys settle on 90 x 40 dispersion over 90 x 90 degrees.
I keep coming back and looking at those w5's.
I'm angling in my foam wings in front of my tweet to prevent side wall reflections.
Sounds better even from the back room.
More often than not, horn guys settle on 90 x 40 dispersion over 90 x 90 degrees.
I keep coming back and looking at those w5's.
No way for an open baffle! The woman would think me mad? Every speaker I ever made has been “way too big” I begin to explain and she don’t care about sound. She liked the little satellites that came with the surround sound.
I have not placed the order for the w5 yet as I would like some kind of confirmed box design. I once tried to copy Linkwize design with a pipe pointing up and a cylinder above it. Spent hundreds of hours to build and the outcome didn’t sound good! Put it out for the garbage man sans drivers,
Sorry Xki I cant figure out what your karlsenator thread calls for. The thread jumps around and the one I found was a proposed one where you told someone to use eg a percentage of either the .53x or the .43x . Maybe that’s why my trial with the small one I built wasn’t optimum? Didn’t choose the right one?
I have not placed the order for the w5 yet as I would like some kind of confirmed box design. I once tried to copy Linkwize design with a pipe pointing up and a cylinder above it. Spent hundreds of hours to build and the outcome didn’t sound good! Put it out for the garbage man sans drivers,
Sorry Xki I cant figure out what your karlsenator thread calls for. The thread jumps around and the one I found was a proposed one where you told someone to use eg a percentage of either the .53x or the .43x . Maybe that’s why my trial with the small one I built wasn’t optimum? Didn’t choose the right one?
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