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Old 7th February 2018, 04:40 PM   #1
Kyngfish is offline Kyngfish  United States
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Default Dallas II Build

Dallas2-plans-redraw-251215.pdf

Hi All - I started breaking down some Baltic Birch stock last night and drawing lines for a Dallas II build. I'll post pictures here as I progress - but I had two quick questions:
  • I noticed the plans shared on the forum were made for 1/2" stock, my baltic birch is 3/4" I don't especially want to start redrawing, how big a deal is that 1/4" internal dimension? Should I redo?
  • I have a track saw, table saw and sliding miter saw, so I think I'm good with the tools. The miter should easily handle the 11+ inch width for the angled cuts. EXCEPT that 12 degree cut on the 28 inch board. I'm trying to visualize the best way to do it, but the only way I can see is by standing that board up and hoping those 12 degrees clear my miter housing. Anyone else have any clever ideas? Chisel? Handsaw? Sandpaper?

Thanks!

Last edited by Kyngfish; 7th February 2018 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 7th February 2018, 05:00 PM   #2
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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Dallas II Build
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyngfish View Post
[*]I noticed the plans shared on the forum were made for 1/2" stock, my baltic birch is 3/4" I don't especially want to start redrawing, how big a deal is that 1/4" internal dimension? Should I redo?
Actually an omission in the plans you linked. I did a recently upgraded plan which indicates the material thickness is 18mm.

Do take a micrometer to your material. 18mm is often called ¾”. ¾” is 19.05mm and the extra 1mm will add up. But it can be anywhere from <18mm to >19mm. Plans need to be adjusted for the actual material thinkness.

The easiest fix might be to make the box 19.05/18 x as wide to maintain the path cross-section areas.

dave
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Old 7th February 2018, 05:05 PM   #3
Kyngfish is offline Kyngfish  United States
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Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
Actually an omission in the plans you linked. I did a recently upgraded plan which indicates the material thickness is 18mm
Thanks Dave. The plywood is definitely stamped with cyrillic characters so I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s a metric thickness. I’ll double check tonight. So you’re saying that if the material is 18mm then I’m good with the existing plans? If not - I should modify height width and depth by 1mm?

Edit: Sorry. I’m a bit lost. 19mm thickness actually means I’m losing 2mm interior in each of the three dimensions right?

Last edited by Kyngfish; 7th February 2018 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 7th February 2018, 10:19 PM   #4
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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No. 1mm. half a mm each side… front back, top, bottom extend to the outside of the box.

dave
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Old 7th February 2018, 11:10 PM   #5
phivates is offline phivates  United States
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The 12 degree cut...you could make a sled with a tall fence, such as a 4x6, and clamp the panel to it. A bit of work for two cuts. Or a dado. Then there's the hand plane option, where you lay out the edges of the bevel and plane down to the lines. That would be a sharp hand plane. I like the #3 or 4 for these kinds of things. ChrisB knows how it's done...
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Old 7th February 2018, 11:15 PM   #6
Kyngfish is offline Kyngfish  United States
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Originally Posted by phivates View Post
The 12 degree cut...you could make a sled with a tall fence, such as a 4x6, and clamp the panel to it. A bit of work for two cuts. Or a dado. Then there's the hand plane option, where you lay out the edges of the bevel and plane down to the lines. That would be a sharp hand plane. I like the #3 or 4 for these kinds of things. ChrisB knows how it's done...
I was thinking of the plane. I have a number 7. Not ideal but may work. Thanks!
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Old 7th February 2018, 11:15 PM   #7
Kyngfish is offline Kyngfish  United States
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No. 1mm. half a mm each side… front back, top, bottom extend to the outside of the box.

dave
It’s 18mm stock. Crisis averted.
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Old 7th February 2018, 11:50 PM   #8
phivates is offline phivates  United States
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#7 has the heft to carry the plane through all those plies. Recommend dri-cote on the sole.
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Old 8th February 2018, 01:19 PM   #9
jimbro is offline jimbro  United States
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Don't know if you want to go to this much trouble but a horizontal tilting router table would work Horizontal Tilt-top Router Table Project / Rockler How-to
or even a simple diy hand-held tilting router base.
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Old 8th February 2018, 04:37 PM   #10
phivates is offline phivates  United States
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The tilting router base is one of those 'one of these days' additions to the kit for sure
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