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Old 13th June 2018, 01:11 PM   #131
paul burchell is offline paul burchell  Canada
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My veneer before and after planing.
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Old 13th June 2018, 01:48 PM   #132
paul burchell is offline paul burchell  Canada
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Oh ya glued butt joints on solid end grain are weak and will break easy (screws,biscuits,dowels,datoes,dovetails or finger joints)should be used where end grain and long grain meet
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Old 13th June 2018, 03:56 PM   #133
chrisb is offline chrisb
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I've had pretty good success with combinations of dadoes and brad nails on my plywood builds. When a design calls for removable panels (usually back or bottom), those will be screwed onto perimeter cleats/battens and gasketed with foam weatherstripping tape. Dovetail or finger joints look gorgeous on Apple ply drawer boxes for higher end kitchens and office furniture, but I don't have the skills for that, and prefer post veneered finishes that would hide all that anyway.
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Old 13th June 2018, 07:54 PM   #134
paul burchell is offline paul burchell  Canada
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I frequently use datoes in construction but never try to match the width to the stock. Rather i run a 1/4 to 3/8" dato across the panel then bring a sakraficial fence to the dato blades on the table saw cutting the mating end close to fit then use a shoulder plane to create a nice slip fit. I never had luck sawing to a slip fit there was always that one that was to tight or worse to loose.
If fitted snug like this glue alone would be sufficent. But if down time waiting for glue to dry is a problem pins can be used. I just dont like wiggling and playing with it while glue is drying.
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Old 13th June 2018, 08:15 PM   #135
paul burchell is offline paul burchell  Canada
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Chris ive been using a hi friction pad with a peel off sticky back from lee valley for sealing removable backs. I cut it into 3/4" strips and stick it to the clets it has a much higher density than typical weather stripping. I think it runs about $20 for a 1'3' sheet.
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Old 19th July 2018, 06:26 PM   #136
niffy is offline niffy  England
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I hope you don't mind me flipping this thread back to the first post.

Hi Chris,

I spotted your speakers on the Jordan site several months ago and was highly intrigued as they are, in broad strokes, very similar to a system that I am currently working on.
This morning I stumbled across this thread.
Rather than translam I am using a more traditional construction method. Like you I am going to use a 5lt sealed enclosure for the eikona and sit this atop a powered sub. I haven't decided yet on whether to use the same seas ROY26/radiator as yourself or to use the scanspeak 23w/4557t00.
My plan is to build the eikona monitors and run them full range, augmented with my current sub. Next build the pair of subs that will double as stands. And finally add an active crossover to roll the bottom half octave or so off the jordans. I found that relieving my current full rangers of bass duties had a large positive impact on the midrange.
As my monitors are going to be in externally squared enclosures I may build a second pair and stack them to give two drivers per side.

I do have one area that I am completely unsure of and hope that you may be able to help. What are you using for your active crossover? Is it analogue or DSP? I gather that it is balanced as the input to your subs plate amp , as spotted in the Jordan site, uses the balanced input.

I just hope my speakers end up looking half as good as yours.

Niffy
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