Sounds like in my situation then with both analog and digital sources in the mix I am better off staying away from the miniDSP or other DSP solutions.
There are actually quite a few pre-amps, integrateds and receivers (2-channel and multi-channel) that do - for example the Outlaw (2) and Emotiva T100 (1), Onkyo TX NR818 (2), Rotel RC1570 (2) . Admittedly, not too many power only amps - or maybe I've just not stumbled across them.
spiggs - the minidsp and like products are I think targeted to the PC / digital signal stream market - it'd be hard to avoid that interim ADC with a vinyl front end in such a system - for example in the case of a surround receiver. Of course, the internal DSP can be bi-passed for pure / direct audio mode, but that usually drops back to L&R front channels only.
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Hello, I was wondering what your impressions/feelings are on the Onkyo 8020 on it's own merit? I read many favorable reviews on it, and decided to order one just a few moments ago at a good price of $199 CAD with free shipping. Seems a nice bit of gear performance/price wise for a 2 channel old/new school receiver.
How do you like it?
Thanks,
Dave.
Funny, I have a circa early 2000s Sony STR-DE895 in the garage that has 4 TOSLINK inputs. This is what the Onkyo 8020 replaced.
I am happy with the Onkyo 8020. It was what I was looking for, a basic 2 channel setup for music that was inexpensive and eschewed extra features to focus on good basic performance. I can listen quietly in the evening or crank it as loud as I want when no one is home and the music has detail and life. I can hear the difference between high quality sources and lower quality for example flac vs mp3 files. For this price point I think you will be pleased.
Sure, but that doesn't stop you from grabbing a free software equaliser and just trying it out.
A quick listening test will cost you nothing, and would tell you whether removing the 8kHz peak is the solution you need.
Hmm...
Some users have tried doing an A/B test with a miniDSP (set to flat), and report that they can't hear whether it is in the signal chain or not.
When powered from a battery or it's own wall wart, I don't hear any degradation with mine. It does sounds pretty noisy when powered by USB from some computers.
If the OP were to buy a new miniDSP, and decided that it "degrades the signal quite a bit", I'd be grateful if he put it on ebay and let me know. I'd like a 2nd unit, and haven't gotten around to ordering one.
Looking up the specs for that old Sony for curiosity’s sake reminded me of my first couple of Denons, that pre-Audyssey were frustrating to set up with test tones and SPL meter - I’d never rely on just my hearing for that.
I’m quite happy with my current Onkyo surround receiver, which is a breeze to set up, and even stops you with an error message if any of the channels are out of phase - not all that hard to do when some locations are awkward or poorly lit when connecting.
It sounds like the 8020 is a modern equivalent to the huge bang for the buck value of the 70’s vintage NAD 7020 - which was modestly rated at 20WPC - I won’t debate about how much more powerful than that they sounded, but if memory serves me correctly, sold for more that $200 back then. So really, the 8020 is sounding more every minute like a stupidly good bargain for a basic no frills box - particularly if you’re blessed with decent terrestrial FM reception, or a cable provider that still carves out room for the FM radio band - not all do much to ensure decent signal for that these days.
hollowboy - I’m not sure if spiggs mentioned that his digital source(s) included a ‘puter that would be required to operate software EQ, whether built into the media player or separate app?
I’m quite happy with my current Onkyo surround receiver, which is a breeze to set up, and even stops you with an error message if any of the channels are out of phase - not all that hard to do when some locations are awkward or poorly lit when connecting.
It sounds like the 8020 is a modern equivalent to the huge bang for the buck value of the 70’s vintage NAD 7020 - which was modestly rated at 20WPC - I won’t debate about how much more powerful than that they sounded, but if memory serves me correctly, sold for more that $200 back then. So really, the 8020 is sounding more every minute like a stupidly good bargain for a basic no frills box - particularly if you’re blessed with decent terrestrial FM reception, or a cable provider that still carves out room for the FM radio band - not all do much to ensure decent signal for that these days.
hollowboy - I’m not sure if spiggs mentioned that his digital source(s) included a ‘puter that would be required to operate software EQ, whether built into the media player or separate app?
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Yeah the Sony had a lot of stuff going on and never really sounded great regardless of the settings I tried. It was a gift to bring surround sound to my home and came with some Polk satellite speakers and a sub. That replaced a Yamaha receiver and some big speakers I bought from a friend back in the 80s who was the local HiFi nut. Can't remember the details but I miss those, they were great in a I want to blast AC/DC kinda way.
Listening to over the air FM radio right now and it is sweet
Hey point taken and I appreciate the suggestion hollowboy. My setup for digital is a Plex server running on a Raspberry Pi which I then use my phone to cast to a chromecast audio hooked to the Schitt Mani. I looked for an eq I could get working on android but the ones available were far too basic to do much beyond what the tone controls do on the receiver.
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So my plan now is to try the speaker treatments that Dave suggested in stages and see if that makes a difference, since that is inexpensive and easy as far as integrating into my current setup, and report back. I may do the speaker cabinets as well just to add that extra bit of quality. If that doesn't do it I will explore the DSP route more.
Question though before I invest a lot of time into the FF105WK speakers. If you were to recommend speakers for my situation, small speaker cabinets on stands, small living room, single sub, range of music, what would you recommend? Am I on the right track for a solid budget setup?
Question though before I invest a lot of time into the FF105WK speakers. If you were to recommend speakers for my situation, small speaker cabinets on stands, small living room, single sub, range of music, what would you recommend? Am I on the right track for a solid budget setup?
Could you borrow someone's laptop for an afternoon (or take your speakers to a friends house) to give a computer-based eq a quick try?
I'm not familiar with your gear, but a search for android + parametric eq should get you something that's more advanced.
e.g. Neutron Music Player is $6 and has a "Parametric Equalizer (4-30 band, fully configurable: type, frequency, Q, gain)"
...and this one is free, but apparently it can be hard to install on some devices:
Viper4Android
Thank you for your impressions and it sounds exactly like what I've been looking for as well. I'm glad I pulled the trigger on it now especially after seeing it on sale at a hundred off the regular price here in Canada with free shipping, plus it has a two year warranty which is nice. Looking forward to it's arrival and getting it set up! I'll be using it with a cd player, sub amp, a C.Crane am/fm antenna, and a dac for music via my laptop.
Cheers,
Dave
OK, if you're asking for speaker recommendations in this forum, don't be surprised if the name Mark Audio pops up. Depending on how far your budget can be stretched, and how small a stand mounted enclosure you can accommodate, my short list would include:
Fostex FF105WK = $55 ea
MA CHR70 = $36
Pluvia 7 =$45
Alpair7.3 = $85
Alpair10.3(M) - $85 *
Pluvia11 = $110
Alpair10P - $110
I've heard all of the above, some in several different size / design enclosures, and would normally suggest the A10.3M as an all round best bet for a first build - particularly at Madisound's current clearance pricing. But in your case I think the Pluvia7 is a great deal - for the minor difference in price it's certainly more than halfway between the CHR and A7.3. There are numerous enclosure designs from very compact to floorstanders for all of the above.
Fostex FF105WK = $55 ea
MA CHR70 = $36
Pluvia 7 =$45
Alpair7.3 = $85
Alpair10.3(M) - $85 *
Pluvia11 = $110
Alpair10P - $110
I've heard all of the above, some in several different size / design enclosures, and would normally suggest the A10.3M as an all round best bet for a first build - particularly at Madisound's current clearance pricing. But in your case I think the Pluvia7 is a great deal - for the minor difference in price it's certainly more than halfway between the CHR and A7.3. There are numerous enclosure designs from very compact to floorstanders for all of the above.
There are a couple 10Fs. The cheaper ones (8414) seem to be closer to FR, the ones we got (8424) but the latter are really midranges and IMO over-priced. A5.2 or FF85wk would be my pick over them.
dave
He didn't.
Listing a jillion drivers, especially expensive ones, seems like a big swerve off-topic.
EDIT - I missed the post where he did
Sorry, chaps.
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Regarding the miniDSP discussion earlier, and the sound being affected by the A/D -- D/A conversions..
There is an all analogue solution out there for the OP (spiggs) that might work with everything, including the turntable.
This unit does XO with OP amps, and has selectable frequencies and either 12dB or 24dB slopes.
I never heard it, but it looks nice and might work better when dealing with analogue sound.
K231 Stereo 3-Way Active Crossover – Xkitz Electronics
They also have a single board (would need one for each cabinet) with less possibilities that is quite cheaper.
There is an all analogue solution out there for the OP (spiggs) that might work with everything, including the turntable.
This unit does XO with OP amps, and has selectable frequencies and either 12dB or 24dB slopes.
I never heard it, but it looks nice and might work better when dealing with analogue sound.
K231 Stereo 3-Way Active Crossover – Xkitz Electronics
They also have a single board (would need one for each cabinet) with less possibilities that is quite cheaper.
I guess you missed post #28, just above your own reply...
Indeed, 'twas my mistake.
Well that was more than I was expecting, thanks for all the suggestions. So the question is should I stick with the FF105WK speakers or cut my losses and try something different. The FF105WK made the list of suggestions so I guess I am not barking up the wrong tree.
I do have to ask though. I looked up the Pluvia 7. The specs said it will do f3 100Hz in a small 4.3l sealed cabinet. Does that mean I could build that box and bring my subwoofer in at 100Hz and get decent sound?
I do have to ask though. I looked up the Pluvia 7. The specs said it will do f3 100Hz in a small 4.3l sealed cabinet. Does that mean I could build that box and bring my subwoofer in at 100Hz and get decent sound?
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