I am wondering if somebody could give me some advice. I am modifying some 2 3/4" full range drivers; I have them and want to do something with them, but they need improvement. I'm installing phase plugs. I am also curious about stiffening and dampening via application of solutions. My drivers aren't bright, perhaps boomy and sluggish. Any thoughts? By the way, I do not have the ability to measure things or do any professional diagnostics.
I use Yamato Nori starch glue to harden my paper. I apply a thin layer, dry it with hairdryer and apply one more layer.
Ideal method of applying to prevent too much water content from the starch glue from entering the paper which causes warping.
Yamato Nori (Starch Paste Tube Type) YAMATO CO.,LTD.
Ideal method of applying to prevent too much water content from the starch glue from entering the paper which causes warping.
Yamato Nori (Starch Paste Tube Type) YAMATO CO.,LTD.
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I think you want to be careful with too much stiffening of a paper cone FR. To a great degree, the wider bandwidth performance is based on "break-up", and while strategic location of mass / stiffening or damping materials can mitigate some extreme resonances, it's probably easier than you to go too far. It might not be the cone, so much as the junction at surround / frame that could use some treatment.
Thanks for the responses to a thread that was misspelled.
Now for the information I was hiding... the drivers are from a Bose Wave Radio. Sorry. I got 2 of these for free and would like to see if I can improve upon it.
If anybody is still there, the radio employs two different drivers. One full ranger which employs the wave guide and one that handles mostly high and mid frequencies.
Now for the information I was hiding... the drivers are from a Bose Wave Radio. Sorry. I got 2 of these for free and would like to see if I can improve upon it.
If anybody is still there, the radio employs two different drivers. One full ranger which employs the wave guide and one that handles mostly high and mid frequencies.
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I use it in it pasty form and apply on the paper using a spreader. Diluted paste takes several rounds of application to get paper harden, e.g. starch spray that I had used before. Took me 5 to 6 rounds of application by spraying(completely soaked) to achieve hardening.
Do take care of wrapping, as water content will loosen the bonding on paper fiber.
Apply a thin layer then dry it with thermal blower, followed by another layer. This is how I harden my whizzer cone.
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Thanks everybody. Early results are very positive. I didn't run a perfect control experiment, because I also installed a bung plug in the wave radio. The combination of plug and puzzle coat turned the wave radio into something I can now listen to. My other wave radio is getting the drivers with phase plugs, so I am hoping for even more improvement there.
Why not an alcohol based treatment such as shellac, or, alcohol thinned epoxy? If epoxy is allowed to cross link, you can thin it to a water consistency and whatever remains of the residue will still cure. Is what I use to seal MDF for it's ability to penetrate and harden further than just about any other primer without raising fibers/fuzz like water does.
Damping is under appreciated, misunderstood, unmanly. Stiffness! That's the ticket. I might try shellac on poly cones, but paper is usually plenty stiff. If it's a LF driver then fine, do what you will. Adding mass will lower Fs, which is often higher than the spec sheet says it is.
Raw paper almost always benefits from a layer of slightly flexible (when cured) resin. I use exterior spar varnish, water borne, because I have a bunch of it.
Raw paper almost always benefits from a layer of slightly flexible (when cured) resin. I use exterior spar varnish, water borne, because I have a bunch of it.
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What i have seen from a factory that produce speaker cone using paper pulp. They add additives like starch mixed with some metal ion and polymer oxide to produce dry strength. Also dye for the coloring, they produce is mostly professional speakers but i do know they use kraft as the pulp.
But I find starch paste is the best hardening agent, and add a layer waterbase paper varnish, prevents it from wearing out.
I am using thia varnish below specially made for paper.
PADICO Sealer Matte Waterbased Acrylic Polymer Emulsion coat 100ml varnish
Might try mixing the varnish with starch to test on paper hardening and provide varnish protection at the same time.
But I find starch paste is the best hardening agent, and add a layer waterbase paper varnish, prevents it from wearing out.
I am using thia varnish below specially made for paper.
PADICO Sealer Matte Waterbased Acrylic Polymer Emulsion coat 100ml varnish
Might try mixing the varnish with starch to test on paper hardening and provide varnish protection at the same time.
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That is a water-based acrylic, a stretch to call it a varnish.
It is going to be similar to the MicroScale gloss i use as a conformal coating over the EnABL spots. I use with both paper & metals cones (and others), in addition to the “puzzlekoat” (puzzle PVA) layer on top of the raw paper before EnABLing them.
dave
It is going to be similar to the MicroScale gloss i use as a conformal coating over the EnABL spots. I use with both paper & metals cones (and others), in addition to the “puzzlekoat” (puzzle PVA) layer on top of the raw paper before EnABLing them.
dave
It is a varnish but it is purely for paper. And find this varnish is more applicable for paper that are easily soak due to higher water absorbency. And i preferred this varnish as they get absorbed by the paper but doesn't create a soaking transparent look on the paper.
I have tried daler and rowney, they sucks. They just create transparent results which made the cone really ugly.
Mod Podge vintage matte, produce a plastic rubbery feel on the surface. Will not soak the paper.
Winsor & Newton and Martha Stewart varnish, produce same soaking results.
I also have tried industrial enamel coating, but the results are not very nice. But is create a slightly elastic plastic feel coating that will not soak through the paper.
I have tried daler and rowney, they sucks. They just create transparent results which made the cone really ugly.
Mod Podge vintage matte, produce a plastic rubbery feel on the surface. Will not soak the paper.
Winsor & Newton and Martha Stewart varnish, produce same soaking results.
I also have tried industrial enamel coating, but the results are not very nice. But is create a slightly elastic plastic feel coating that will not soak through the paper.
It may be applied like a varnish but it is an acrylic. The “varnish" part is just the marketing department. It is similar to the acrylic i use and others that are used by Steve Decard and others. I expect yours will work similarly.
PVA is a plastic. So is arcylic. It does soak into the paper if you thin it sufficiently but only into the top layers coupling the top layer of paper fibres to be encased in the “plastic" reducing noise from th evibrating fibres. It produces a very thin layer that remains flexible so that the cone can flex as it should (the acrylic you use is similar). It can be had in matt or gloss, i use gloss mostly.
dave
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