Has anyone tried the new Morel TSCM 634 "midrange" as a fullrange yet; some commercial designs are doing this? I have also seen 2-ways; I am thinking "almost" fullrange with a larger AMT tweeter above possibly 8KHz. (I am NOT worried about beaming so much.).
As a "fullrange"; I was thinking of a simple vented box to start; if the Qt is just too high and this doesn't work out, I could seal the TSCM and add a "woofer" in the same box.
Fullrange, 2-way, 3-way, whatever; what are the opinions of the sound "quality"; I've read this is very open, engaging, accurate and delivers extra layers of fine detail lesser drivers just muddy up???
Thanks!
As a "fullrange"; I was thinking of a simple vented box to start; if the Qt is just too high and this doesn't work out, I could seal the TSCM and add a "woofer" in the same box.
Fullrange, 2-way, 3-way, whatever; what are the opinions of the sound "quality"; I've read this is very open, engaging, accurate and delivers extra layers of fine detail lesser drivers just muddy up???
Thanks!
I just saw your post and wanted to respond. Since you are asking about its fullrange capabilities, I am assuming you saw the following article.
6moons audio reviews: Eltim Supreme 614 Solo
I used the Morel driver and correction filter mentioned in the article, the only difference is that I had installed it in a constant cross-section transmission line box. I will say this, the driver is outstanding! I get bass response that is so tuneful and perfectly complimentary to the great midrange. The highs are there too! The response of this driver is just incredible, especially in a transmission line box. I am powering mine with a Peachtree amp and the driver just stays clean until ir runs out of xmax. There is never a sign of straining until the limited suspension travel bottoms out. I definitely get pretty loud up to that point!
I am glad you are considering an AMT tweeter at 8k. I have a Fountek NeoCD1.0 that I will be adding and crossing over at 8k myself. The reasoning for me is that the midrange is so good that I wanted the crossover well out of the range where our hearing is most sensitive. Also, this driver is that good that I know have a super tweeter would be the best way to go. This will allow the driver to handle the meat of the music and allow the tweeter to handle extension, air, dynamics, etc. At leat that is my reasoning. It's funny that you are considering the exact setup I am working on. I would say run it fullrange to determine whether you need the tweeter or not. For me, I will be building a transmission line subwoofer as well and I want to be able to to maximize the power to the driver and ensure it will always stay clean since it will be a wideband midrange in my setup.
As for box to start with, I cannot recommend the TL enough. It is super easy to build and as far as I am concerned, it maximizes the driver. I was able to compare this to a SEAS ER18RNX mid from the Zaph SR71 kit. My buddy was so impressed with my TL box and it happened to model well for that driver. I will say that this driver is definitely all that and significant improvement over the SEAS. Rest assured the extra money is very noticable and well worth it!!!
Hope this provides some insight and apologize for gushing over this driver. It truly is a phenominal performer!
6moons audio reviews: Eltim Supreme 614 Solo
I used the Morel driver and correction filter mentioned in the article, the only difference is that I had installed it in a constant cross-section transmission line box. I will say this, the driver is outstanding! I get bass response that is so tuneful and perfectly complimentary to the great midrange. The highs are there too! The response of this driver is just incredible, especially in a transmission line box. I am powering mine with a Peachtree amp and the driver just stays clean until ir runs out of xmax. There is never a sign of straining until the limited suspension travel bottoms out. I definitely get pretty loud up to that point!
I am glad you are considering an AMT tweeter at 8k. I have a Fountek NeoCD1.0 that I will be adding and crossing over at 8k myself. The reasoning for me is that the midrange is so good that I wanted the crossover well out of the range where our hearing is most sensitive. Also, this driver is that good that I know have a super tweeter would be the best way to go. This will allow the driver to handle the meat of the music and allow the tweeter to handle extension, air, dynamics, etc. At leat that is my reasoning. It's funny that you are considering the exact setup I am working on. I would say run it fullrange to determine whether you need the tweeter or not. For me, I will be building a transmission line subwoofer as well and I want to be able to to maximize the power to the driver and ensure it will always stay clean since it will be a wideband midrange in my setup.
As for box to start with, I cannot recommend the TL enough. It is super easy to build and as far as I am concerned, it maximizes the driver. I was able to compare this to a SEAS ER18RNX mid from the Zaph SR71 kit. My buddy was so impressed with my TL box and it happened to model well for that driver. I will say that this driver is definitely all that and significant improvement over the SEAS. Rest assured the extra money is very noticable and well worth it!!!
Hope this provides some insight and apologize for gushing over this driver. It truly is a phenominal performer!
I "may" be getting ready to get a pair of these soon; which box did you use? Can I buy a flat-pack/kit? I have a pair of PE (Dayton) BR-1 boxes that I might try first. Has anybody tried this Morel TSCM in a vented box of about 15 liters??? (approx. 1/2 ft.^3). What tweeters have people tried with these? I'm thinking AMT still starting at 8KHz but would like to know what others may have tried or heard. Thanks!
woooops. I took another look at the TSP's; it appears the Q is way too high for 15L vented. I suppose I could try blocking the vent. I did a small vented box years ago that was purposely mis-aligned because I was experimenting with vent tube stuffing materials. I actually got some decent, extended bass that was NOT boomy using this method. It seems I read some papers YEARS ago where others had studied and experimented with vent damping, de-tuning and stuffing. Do any of you out there have any links that could point me in the direction of these methods?
yep! Impressive! 28Hz! Piano low A is 27.5 Hz so this one driver will cover over 98% of all instruments! (except very large pipe organs, bass drums and some electronic/synthesizers!!!).
Hope there are no Tsnamis! (sp???) from the earthquake; I spent years going into and out of Japan with the Navy so I got to experience the Western Pacific first hand (Typhoons, volcanoes, earthquakes, etc.)!
Been away for a while!
We had the big earthquake here, and 300 aftershock in 3 days!
We decided to take a small vacation away from here for a few days.
Then, it was Chinese New Year around here. Quietest ever, pretty much everybody canceled their vacation plans coming here, so it was a hard time for local businesses like hotels, BnBs and restaurants. They usually make much of their year during Chinese New Year, but many of them had to close just to save some money.
Anyway, that's in the past now, and back to reality and every day life.
Had a quick look at the driver with LeonardAudio TL sim, and it outputs solid down to 30Hz. Very nice.
It's not cheap, but it looks fabulous.
We had the big earthquake here, and 300 aftershock in 3 days!
We decided to take a small vacation away from here for a few days.
Then, it was Chinese New Year around here. Quietest ever, pretty much everybody canceled their vacation plans coming here, so it was a hard time for local businesses like hotels, BnBs and restaurants. They usually make much of their year during Chinese New Year, but many of them had to close just to save some money.
Anyway, that's in the past now, and back to reality and every day life.
Had a quick look at the driver with LeonardAudio TL sim, and it outputs solid down to 30Hz. Very nice.
It's not cheap, but it looks fabulous.
Attachments
I had a few extra minutes this afternoon, so played a bit and adjusted a few little things to get a better response.
Cross-section is still the same at 225cm2, but length is 1.2m, Vent is 18cm2 and 0.09cm long. Driver at 55cm from the top.
Losing a bit of extension but flatter response.
Actually, it would depend on the room. Many rooms will pick up and enhance the bass, so, even if the sim looks flat, the speaker may sound boomy in some rooms that are very lively. Then, a slightly lower bass end would work better.
Cross-section is still the same at 225cm2, but length is 1.2m, Vent is 18cm2 and 0.09cm long. Driver at 55cm from the top.
Losing a bit of extension but flatter response.
Actually, it would depend on the room. Many rooms will pick up and enhance the bass, so, even if the sim looks flat, the speaker may sound boomy in some rooms that are very lively. Then, a slightly lower bass end would work better.
Attachments
I'm ordering 2 TSCM 634 drivers soon. I have some Dayton BR1 boxes that I will try 1st. These are just over 0.5 ft^3 BUT have a tuning vent tube. I'm going to block the tube with a foam cylinder that is full length and see how that goes. I'm going to try the AC G2Si as a super tweeter. I need the high output above 10KHz. This ribbon should fit the existing tweeter hole perfectly. The Morel should fit the existing woofer hole perfectly. Eventually, I would prefer to up grade to a MLTL box and probably get a better tweeter but at least I now have a starting point. Years ago I saw some studies on stuffing vent tubes; partially and completely. Does anyone know of any references to this technique?
Did you have them in a closed box or vented or other? I'd prefer to stay away from a very large capacitor as a means of HPF above say 100Hz and was hoping a closed box would limit the excursion.
Thanks for the insight; da*n; no such thing as a perfect driver!
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