No I didn`t know Shy FX.
Very nice.
"Feelings" I got to search.
There is so much good music I don`t know about.
Thanks for the tips.
I am playing a pair Fanes 12", in OB, driven by Dynaco ST 35, no crossover, no eq. Tried many other FRD, Betsy, Matsushita 8P W1, R&A 12", Calrad, JBL Le8T. (Telefunken and Zenith yet to be tested)
I keep going back to Fanes. Earlier it was no preamp as played lossless from Mac. Now its through CDP with an RE084 tube preamp in-between. The Fanes seems to be playing pure magic. Midrange and HF sounds sweetest as never before with no dearth of HF extension.
The DADC CDs give goosebumps and make me glued to my seat for endless listening sessions. Fanes in OB are making me re-discover all my tracks again.
I firmly believe Fanes are MADE for tubes.......
The Fanes 12" are centered on 50" high X 30" wide baffles. A 6" side wall runs on one side in the rear, giving them acoustic off-centre. Assisted by 15" bass driver in the bottom, crossed at 120 Hz and SS driven.
Yes, 15" Fanes are definitely tempting for their bigger size and flatter response but steep roll off beyond 15-16K makes me look for guys who have played both 12" and 15" Fanes. I definitely don't want to lose even a bit of HF extension going from 12" to 15".
I was also wondering, it may be just wishful thinking or a stupid idea, since Fanes have vented pole magnets, how about installing a small super tweeter in the very centre, without disturbing the smallest cone and to work from 14K and up ?
I have seen guys install a wooden phase plug similarly.
You'd have remove the dustcap. The problem is, that stabilizes the two whizzer cones. Aside from that, you'd have to find a tiny driver that got the same spl and fits at the same time. If you use a bigger one from the back, you'd create a pressure chamber and that is effectively a bandpass and you'd get a laser-like sharp dispersion - not very tempting.
I like the idea of that, have you tested to see whether having it like that (I've once seen it referred to as an "L-Frame") has an effect on the cavity resonance?
I have no intention of butchering Fane 12". I am happy with HF extension.
I was just wondering if Fane 15" would need any HF extension and was looking for HF sonic impressions if anybody has actually played them both.
I could have off-centered the Fane 12" wrt bass driver but that was not visually appealing to me, so I fitted a 6" rear wall that runs through out the length of front baffle in the rear and its recessed from the side edge. I have not experienced any cavity resonance in the Fane.
L frame I presume has deeper side, comparable to front baffle. But yes, I do experience some cavity resonance at times wrt the bass driver. This needs to be further experimented.
There is a post somewhere on forum with plots on different rear side walls, 12" on one side and 2" on other and variations of that.
I was just wondering if Fane 15" would need any HF extension and was looking for HF sonic impressions if anybody has actually played them both.
I could have off-centered the Fane 12" wrt bass driver but that was not visually appealing to me, so I fitted a 6" rear wall that runs through out the length of front baffle in the rear and its recessed from the side edge. I have not experienced any cavity resonance in the Fane.
L frame I presume has deeper side, comparable to front baffle. But yes, I do experience some cavity resonance at times wrt the bass driver. This needs to be further experimented.
There is a post somewhere on forum with plots on different rear side walls, 12" on one side and 2" on other and variations of that.
I have a pair of both the 12 and 15 inch drivers. The 15's are mounted on a 24x48 inch baffle (60x120 cm). First thing that hit me was the realism of instruments like a tenor sax. Dexter Gordon playing "I Guess I'll Hang My Tears Out to Dry" from Go has the right scale, tone and dynamics a horn should have. I feel that at volume brass can get too harsh so I am using eq. I have a minidsp but find it easier to go old school and am using a Klark-Teknik DN 410 5 band parametric. I'm astounded how good an inexpensive driver can sound.
I also think cutting the cap on these units will degrade performance, or possibly make very variable results, do not believe the effects of replacing it with a phaseplug will provide exclusively positive changes.
The opening on the back should give sound somewhere to escape as well as the obvious benefit of cooling. A phaseplug would take away the benefits of that opening.
Edit:
Jazzfan: I agree on the brass bit, a bit "much". I am also back to very basic eq'ing. Better than "all out" imo.
How do you think the 12" and 15" compares to each other?
The opening on the back should give sound somewhere to escape as well as the obvious benefit of cooling. A phaseplug would take away the benefits of that opening.
Edit:
Jazzfan: I agree on the brass bit, a bit "much". I am also back to very basic eq'ing. Better than "all out" imo.
How do you think the 12" and 15" compares to each other?
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In November I bought one 12 inch at Solen, the only Fane fullranger they had, and played with it a bit. In February they received new stock and I bought the second 12 and the 15's so I haven't had the 12's on a baffle yet. Tomorrow I'm going to buy a pair of Sov 15-400LF drivers to take care of the low bass. Then cut new baffles and alternate between the two.
Using a parametric eq I've added 3db at 20 hertz as a shelf filter and 2db at 250 hertz also shelving. Depending on the recording there can be ample bass. Herbie Hancock's Headhunters kicks you, the Police nothing lacking but on some acoustic jazz albums there is enough bass and on others not. Adding a low frequency driver will relieve the fullranger from doing it all.
I currently got a -6db shelf on 2400hz, so it's 0db at 1khz.
Further, there is a -3.7db q8 notch at 4khz and a -7db q5.2 notch at 8khz. This may change, but works really well for me so far.
Also increased toe-in significantly. Previously it seemed sweet spot was wide, it was a trick of the room, moving about seemed to make no difference, but there was a very slight reduction of information from one speaker. Now, with somewhere between 16-20 degrees toe in, sound spot is really wide, and walls are a much smaller issue.
Edit:
Hpavictor: I think you may have to get a "Karlson 18", or "Karlson for lunatics" simmed by X. I am all for it though! We are all fanatics here!
Further, there is a -3.7db q8 notch at 4khz and a -7db q5.2 notch at 8khz. This may change, but works really well for me so far.
Also increased toe-in significantly. Previously it seemed sweet spot was wide, it was a trick of the room, moving about seemed to make no difference, but there was a very slight reduction of information from one speaker. Now, with somewhere between 16-20 degrees toe in, sound spot is really wide, and walls are a much smaller issue.
Edit:
Hpavictor: I think you may have to get a "Karlson 18", or "Karlson for lunatics" simmed by X. I am all for it though! We are all fanatics here!
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More modern design, and I have been wanting a big Karlsonator
But, of course, the old adage "just because you could, didn't mean you should" applies.
I've had a real stiffy for karlson types of speakers lately
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