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First full range build - Fostex ff165wk
First full range build - Fostex ff165wk
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Old 12th May 2017, 02:04 PM   #21
sadat is offline sadat  United Kingdom
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Chris,

I am in the process of getting a used(new) pair of A 10.3 Gold hence don't think that might be an option. But will have the large in mind .

Quote:
Originally Posted by CER2906 View Post
Sadat,

Try the "standard" Tabaq build and see where that leads?

Regards

Chris
Audiopath,

thanks for your input. I'm almost finalising the MA drivers but otherwise this did seem attractive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by theaudiopath View Post
My suggestions are none of the above. A pair of Seas FA22RCZ 8 inch fullrange drivers. These use a very simple correction network designed by Seas & can work well in a sealed cabinet 50 to 60 litres. Then get some bass traps behind your speakers ASAP.
chrisb,

you said it! I did contact Stefan, very nice guy. However it does seem a bit far away and I am open minded to the FR path so eager to see how it goes. I mean if I find bass lacking I'll add subs later.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
Lots of excellent designs around for the Alpairs and Pluvias - from Scott Lindgren's Pensils and FHXL, to Bob Brines' M10A10 - which I've heard, to the TABAQ, which I've not.

To repeat what I've said many times, if the whole world of FR / single driver systems is new to you, it's easy for the combination of analysis paralysis and sticker shock to keep you from making that first (mis) step.

It could be well worth the phone-call and perhaps shoe-leather / petrol to contact someone line Stefan at www.kjfaudio.com and see if he can find a system near enough for your travel convenience to audition first. But be careful, once you stumble down that rabbit hole, it can take a while to find your way out. For some of us, over a decade and half later, we still feel the gravitational pull.

yes, I know - mixed metaphors.
To update I'm looking to buy some baltic birch in London. There are a lot of merchants nearby and the prices were ~65+VAT for 8'x4' 15mm board. Unless anyone knows better options. The drivers are pretty much finalised:MA M10.3.

Sadat
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Old 12th May 2017, 07:53 PM   #22
zman01 is offline zman01  Bangladesh
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
First full range build - Fostex ff165wk
Sadat,

Good to see things moving forward from your side. Have no idea on UK Baltic birch prices though.

You good with the saw? Got the cutting of the pieces figured out?

Also please note, the Alpair 10.3 has a thick frame and for best sonic results, you should flush-mount it to the front baffle. In that case, you'll be left with only ~5"mm of ply behind the driver frame to screw them in - too less for a driver the size of the MA 10.3. One idea is to add an extra 6mm layer to the front baffle; that ways you still get 10mm+ after the driver rebate.

Also it's important that you do a 45 degree chamfer (or a similar round-over) on the backside of the driver mounting hole.

Last edited by zman01; 12th May 2017 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 13th May 2017, 01:16 AM   #23
chrisb is offline chrisb
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
Ask Stefan how he approaches that issue. I use 18mm ply for the front baffles at least, and as Zia notes, these drivers need both a rebate for mounting flush - I don't use the extra rings if they're still supplied- and scalloped chamfers on the rear side of mounting hole.

I very much like the supplied screws - really more like a sheet metal thread thasn a tapered woodscrew, so careful pilot holes and pre-tapping in the plywood is important. By scalloping the chamfer to leave full thickness "pads" for the six mounting screws, I'm convinced that the approx 8mm of remaining plywood core is sufficient.

Whatever screws you use - do not overtighten them - the composite resin frames will crack
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Old 13th May 2017, 06:47 PM   #24
sadat is offline sadat  United Kingdom
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Thanks both for your input.

I have a jigsaw from bosch and somewhat steady hands so I think I would somehow manage straight cuts. It won't be pitch perfect as with circular saws or using a CNC machine but it will have to make do.

I thought flush mount was for aesthetics only? I was planning on mounting them just straight on the front baffle the usual way. I can understand the 45 chamfer, and will try to implement it. I will also keep the over tightening advice in mind.

I thought which ever design I go for, I will eventually need the material so that's why I just ordered the drivers (used and hopefully in good condition) and looking to get the plywood next.

I was reading through this thread where zman introduces the four designs which is exactly the designs I'm looking at.

My primary choice is Bob's MLTL (I'm pretty sure all the designs from other designers are great!). He seems to have actual measurements after building the design and the response looks great. He's a bit hard to get a hold of, I'm thinking whether to just buy the plans first or wait for him to get back to m?

Sadat
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Old 13th May 2017, 07:05 PM   #25
zman01 is offline zman01  Bangladesh
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
First full range build - Fostex ff165wk
Hi Sadat,

It is possible that Bob is not as regular as he used to be on the diyAudio forums; if not already, maybe send him an e-mail and tell him about your driver of choice and build plans.

I am not sure of the jigsaw will yield best results with ply-wood. If you can get hold of someone with a circular saw, and willing to size up the board for you, then better. Before buying the ply, my advise would be that you make a long cut on a test piece with your jigsaw and see how it comes out. The 45 degree chamfer can be implemented by hand with a rasp.
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Old 14th May 2017, 01:00 AM   #26
chrisb is offline chrisb
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
sadat - I believe that Bob is trying to ease into a very well deserved retirement, and may not be as active on the forums as was the case in his youthful 60s - so if you're looking for much more feedback from him than just the cabinet plans, pack your patience in your back pocket.
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Old 14th May 2017, 01:45 PM   #27
sadat is offline sadat  United Kingdom
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zman,

My present situation dictates that it is very hard to gain access to a circular saw, but I did work with plywood and jigsaw before. The results are fine, it chips a bit if you go too fast but otherwise acceptable.

chrisb,

he just got back to me. but i can surely understand.

now just waiting to get the materials and start the process. any idea on plywood finishing though guys?
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Old 14th May 2017, 01:55 PM   #28
zman01 is offline zman01  Bangladesh
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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First full range build - Fostex ff165wk
Quote:
Originally Posted by sadat View Post
zman,

My present situation dictates that it is very hard to gain access to a circular saw, but I did work with plywood and jigsaw before. The results are fine, it chips a bit if you go too fast but otherwise acceptable.
Ok, good to know that you already have some experience with power tools.


Quote:
Originally Posted by sadat View Post
now just waiting to get the materials and start the process. any idea on plywood finishing though guys?
Many options exist... some folks go for a clear coat on the plywood without any stain or veneer. Others use exquisite veneers (depending on the wood and the quality of the veneers, they can cost quite a bit!). While there are other folks who fancy paint jobs and nice gloss finishes (not easy).

Easiest is to put some nice wall paper on them.

So what are you looking for?
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Old 14th May 2017, 02:14 PM   #29
zman01 is offline zman01  Bangladesh
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dhaka
First full range build - Fostex ff165wk
Though the FH Mk3 is a different in design and aesthetics vs what you are planning to build, the following thread showcases the creativity of DIY builders and the various finishes they chose - should be able to provide some food for thought:

Frugel-Horn Mk3 Picture Gallery
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Old 14th May 2017, 04:54 PM   #30
sadat is offline sadat  United Kingdom
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I think I really like the look of natural birch ply except the edges which I might use Edgebands to cover then up. So I wont probably go for veneers/wallpapers but mostly light oil based finishes.
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