Mini Tower Line Array using Pluvia 7's

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
If you either really fall in love with the Pluvias, or find this doesn't quite turn out as hoped and want to repurpose some of them , you might want to look at a design that I very much like, and consider underappreciated - the Planet10 micro-tower. I've built 3 pairs of the bipole version with top mounted driver, and particularly like them with the top driver tilted forward at 10dg. - per the options shown on page 4 of the plan set.

http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/P10free/microTower-maps-020615.pdf
 
not that I'm aware - for my particular application, the slanted Castle variant suits my application quite well


wish he'd called the 4 driver version something else ;)
 

Attachments

  • Castle MTM-006.JPG
    Castle MTM-006.JPG
    338.9 KB · Views: 444
I'm leaning towards Isobaric because the F3 is halved for the same volume from 1 driver. I guess I was always leaning Iso since I ordered the 4ohm drivers. Any input appreciated, but I realize it's always about me or so the wife says.

Isobaric always seems like such a waste of drivers to me unless you absolutely need to reduce the box volume to a very small amount. Push pull slot loading seems to work quite well for some drivers. There is a thread about them in the subwoofers forum.

The 8C commercial studio monitor from Dutch and Dutch is using two 8" subs on the rear of the cabinet to fire at the wall and they are claiming it works well right near the wall. Measurements look good, might be worth looking at, lots of DSP at work though.

post from one of the designers with some information relevant here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/192737-2-way-waveguide-cardioid-like-17.html#post5048852
 
I really like the Pluvia's midrange and top-end. It's not too 'shouty'. But after some 'break-in' period they do seem to lose some of the upper frequencies and favor the lower notes.
Right now I'm experimenting with MTM, i.e. 2 stacked FR Pluvia's with an 4-ohm AMT tweeter in the middle and everything is wired in parallel. The only crossover I have so far is a 2uF polyester cap in series with the AMT65-4.

All the lower frequencies are gone from the lobing effect, which is fine at this point. After I build 2 more boxes for 2 more Pluvia's, I'll test a MMTMM setup for L & R channels. The endgoal now seems to be a WMMTMMW setup with 8" SB Acoustics woofers crossed over in the sub 200Hz range. We'll see after the MMTMM experiment.

I am far gone from point source... However, I still have the 4x BK12m enclosures and 4x FE126En, and 4x Vifas to remind me how I got here.
 

Attachments

  • P1070079.jpg
    P1070079.jpg
    296.9 KB · Views: 397
  • P1070080.jpg
    P1070080.jpg
    318 KB · Views: 378
Last edited:
Did I mention I favor cymbal reproduction?... Listening to Celtic Frost: To Mega Therion is loaded with cymbals, french horns, and distorted guitar. Distorted guitar? Take the good with the bad I guess. Sounds freakin awesome.... Still trying to find an offensive album that hurts my ears in the mids.
 
Last edited:
I do...

I'm about to enjoy these.... Today I put them in the garage, slightly different angles on the Pluvia's before I brought them back inside for a comparison test. Slightly improved lower FRn in both rooms. More work is needed. Comb filtering is more evident in the sub 1kHz region.
 

Attachments

  • P1070081.jpg
    P1070081.jpg
    364.8 KB · Views: 344
  • P1070082.jpg
    P1070082.jpg
    437.6 KB · Views: 336
Thanks for contributing Dave! But why is it that's the region where I hear the most difference when comparing one speaker to 2 stacked boxes?

And what about this idea: Instead of a vent in the back, put another Pluvia 7 out of phase. Maybe a small vent in the side? Maybe sealed? Would love to get an expert opinion, as I am ready to experiment and replace my old Infinity RS5's with something much better.
 
Last edited:
What you have built in the last images is an MTM configuration, might pay you to read information from D'Appolitto or other's on that arrangement to give you some insight.

You also have the tweeter forward of the woofers and the woofers angled, so you will be changing the interaction between them. Usually the tweeter needs to further back to time align better. Perhaps you could build a waveguide type fitting to put the tweeter in putting it further back and lining up better with the acoustic centres of your full ranges.

At the very least putting the tweeter on a small baffle in between the full range cabinets and having them all point in the same direction would probably give you a better result.
 
Last edited:
You can see everything has been made to be re-arranged for the best sound. Totally experimental at this point.

Working on the last of 8 total enclosures for the Pluvia 7's. Then I have enough MDF to make 2x 1 cu.ft. for the 8" Dayton (sub)woofers.

Up to MMTMM...
 

Attachments

  • P1070086.jpg
    P1070086.jpg
    355.3 KB · Views: 289
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.