Agreed. That's no small thing (and that's just the gravy, as the smile on your daughter's face would be reward enough as it is).
And homemade is always better.
And now she can
360°
Amp = Alpine KTP-445U:
Alpine
Mix Board = Yamaha MGO6X:
http://usa.yamaha.com/products/live_sound/mixers/analog-mixers/mg_xu_model/mg06x/?mode=model
Alpine
Mix Board = Yamaha MGO6X:
http://usa.yamaha.com/products/live_sound/mixers/analog-mixers/mg_xu_model/mg06x/?mode=model
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One of the surprising things about the 'Classic' versions of the AN drivers is it's amazing low level of distortion with a 'quite reasonable' freq response - they actually seem to be slightly better than the published freq response on the website that's very rare indeed.
I'd forgotten about using the 'sheepskins' &/or wool sheet - over 30 years ago in that oval Kef driver/box - must try it again
Great to see such lateral thinking work so well with such a satisfying result - your daughter has amazing confidence - all the best.
I'd forgotten about using the 'sheepskins' &/or wool sheet - over 30 years ago in that oval Kef driver/box - must try it again
Great to see such lateral thinking work so well with such a satisfying result - your daughter has amazing confidence - all the best.
Trust me when I say that hooking pro live sound gear (Yamaha Mix board) to consumer auto gear (Alpine amp) can drive even the most astute engineer crazy. I/we had to consult with Alpine and Yamaha engineers before pulling it off.
Here's the scoop on the amp. You guys can pick it apart as much as you want to but the correct wiring was an effort bay at least 6 engineers including Yamaha and Alpine:
Amp Settings (for two speaker setup) = #1, 2, 3, 4, 5, switches all up; #6 = down
FUSE/OUTPUT END (figure 9):
Yellow (+); Black (-) to 12v DC battery
Right Speaker: Grey/black (-) to shield; Violet (+) to center conductor on TS 1/4" jack
Left speaker: Green/black (-) to shield; White (+) to center conductor on TS 1/4" jack
Note: cut all remaining wires off at different lengths and seal ends to prevent shorting
Gain/Input End (figure 4):
Blue/white to center conductor on SPST DC switch (do not use an AC switch)**see remaining SPST switch instructions below;
Left input from XLR3 (female) output on Mixboard: White/black (-) to pin #1 (shield/ground) on XLR3F; White (+) to pin #2 (positive). IMPORTANT: Pin #3 (-) = no connection - Connecting pin #3 will result in DC hum.
Right input from XLR3 (female) output on Mixboard: Grey/black (-) to pin #1 (shield/ground) on XLR3F; Grey (+) to pin #2 (positive). IMPORTANT: Pin #3 (-) = no connection - Connecting pin#3 will result in DC hum.
**SPST 12v DC switch: run wire from 12v battery (+) to silver conductor on SPST switch. Nothing connects to (-) on SPST DC switch.
Notes: 1) use the instructions on amp only as a reference guide and only use instructions above.
2) amp pulls 15 amp at full power. Most car amps pull much more amps and are therefore not feasible for a portable setup. This was the only such beast I could find on the marketplace.
3) Amp is rated at 45w RMS x 4 - 4 ohm speakers. Since we are hooking 8 ohm speakers to a 4 ohm amp the rated RMS power will be cut in half (approx only) but since we are only using two speakers the RMS will double (approx only) thereby leaving you with a 45w RMS amp (approx only) for a two speaker setup which is VERY powerful especially considering using high efficient speakers. Also, another advantage that most people are not aware of using 8 ohm speakers will actually improve the performance specs of a amp designed for 4 ohm speakers, so you can count on better performance than the specs indicate.
Here's the scoop on the amp. You guys can pick it apart as much as you want to but the correct wiring was an effort bay at least 6 engineers including Yamaha and Alpine:
Amp Settings (for two speaker setup) = #1, 2, 3, 4, 5, switches all up; #6 = down
FUSE/OUTPUT END (figure 9):
Yellow (+); Black (-) to 12v DC battery
Right Speaker: Grey/black (-) to shield; Violet (+) to center conductor on TS 1/4" jack
Left speaker: Green/black (-) to shield; White (+) to center conductor on TS 1/4" jack
Note: cut all remaining wires off at different lengths and seal ends to prevent shorting
Gain/Input End (figure 4):
Blue/white to center conductor on SPST DC switch (do not use an AC switch)**see remaining SPST switch instructions below;
Left input from XLR3 (female) output on Mixboard: White/black (-) to pin #1 (shield/ground) on XLR3F; White (+) to pin #2 (positive). IMPORTANT: Pin #3 (-) = no connection - Connecting pin #3 will result in DC hum.
Right input from XLR3 (female) output on Mixboard: Grey/black (-) to pin #1 (shield/ground) on XLR3F; Grey (+) to pin #2 (positive). IMPORTANT: Pin #3 (-) = no connection - Connecting pin#3 will result in DC hum.
**SPST 12v DC switch: run wire from 12v battery (+) to silver conductor on SPST switch. Nothing connects to (-) on SPST DC switch.
Notes: 1) use the instructions on amp only as a reference guide and only use instructions above.
2) amp pulls 15 amp at full power. Most car amps pull much more amps and are therefore not feasible for a portable setup. This was the only such beast I could find on the marketplace.
3) Amp is rated at 45w RMS x 4 - 4 ohm speakers. Since we are hooking 8 ohm speakers to a 4 ohm amp the rated RMS power will be cut in half (approx only) but since we are only using two speakers the RMS will double (approx only) thereby leaving you with a 45w RMS amp (approx only) for a two speaker setup which is VERY powerful especially considering using high efficient speakers. Also, another advantage that most people are not aware of using 8 ohm speakers will actually improve the performance specs of a amp designed for 4 ohm speakers, so you can count on better performance than the specs indicate.
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This is so important that I feel it deserves its own mention....
The reason you see very few people using pro mix boards with consumer gear is because most do not know how to hook up the two balanced XLR3 (Male) outputs of the mixer to an unbalanced input on an amp or other. Hence, almost all wiring diagrams show how to wire an unbalanced output to a balanced input because that fits most of the applications on the marketplace because most don't think of hooking pro gear to consumer gear especially a mix board, lets say to a car stereo, which would be killer. Imagine pulling over and opening your car doors to the most awesome car stereo with full control, via a mixer, and you can also plug in a mic or two and become an announcer or sing until you run everyone off.
Also, people incorrectly assume the typical unbalanced output to a balanced input wiring works the other way around too...but it DOES NOT! If you try it, it will always result in DC hum. So many people are experiencing this problem and I was no exception. Three engineers on my team were about to throw in the towel after numerous unsuccessful attempts to get rid of the DC hum. When, after several attempts to reach someone with the knowledge, finally answered our repeated requests for help from someone more than a tech.
A BIG THANKS to Yamaha mix board engineers who tipped us off to the little known secret of letting the #3 pin on the XLR3F float (meaning no connection) when hooking the pro mix board up to a consumer amp. Now you can hook your mixboard up to your consumer gear!!!
The reason you see very few people using pro mix boards with consumer gear is because most do not know how to hook up the two balanced XLR3 (Male) outputs of the mixer to an unbalanced input on an amp or other. Hence, almost all wiring diagrams show how to wire an unbalanced output to a balanced input because that fits most of the applications on the marketplace because most don't think of hooking pro gear to consumer gear especially a mix board, lets say to a car stereo, which would be killer. Imagine pulling over and opening your car doors to the most awesome car stereo with full control, via a mixer, and you can also plug in a mic or two and become an announcer or sing until you run everyone off.
Also, people incorrectly assume the typical unbalanced output to a balanced input wiring works the other way around too...but it DOES NOT! If you try it, it will always result in DC hum. So many people are experiencing this problem and I was no exception. Three engineers on my team were about to throw in the towel after numerous unsuccessful attempts to get rid of the DC hum. When, after several attempts to reach someone with the knowledge, finally answered our repeated requests for help from someone more than a tech.
A BIG THANKS to Yamaha mix board engineers who tipped us off to the little known secret of letting the #3 pin on the XLR3F float (meaning no connection) when hooking the pro mix board up to a consumer amp. Now you can hook your mixboard up to your consumer gear!!!
Next up the battery pack....Calculating the amp pulling about 15 amps max and her remaining gear (keyboard, Mixer and wirless reciever all with 12v inputs) which pull about 3 amps combined. Hence, all of her equipment is designed for AC bricks with a 12v output.
She plays about 3.5 hours total (2 sets). 100AH/18amps = 5.56 hours playing time assuming you can drain the batteries 100% - I'll tell you how accomplished that later. But those using deep discharge AGM batteries can only drain 60-80% max which is about 3.5-4.4hrs playing time. However, I would not use an AGM battery because a good 100AH battery will set you back $380 plus it's a back-breaker coming in about 80 lbs.
Most all of the Lithium batteries are made in China regardless of what the people here in the USA claim and you in fact can buy a decent quality 100AH lithium battery from China for a few hundred dollars. In the old days it wasn't possible to bypass the distributors here in the USA because of minimum purchase requirements but with Alibaba you can find many manufacturers/distributors willing to sell you just one for a reasonable cost and they typically pay for shipping.
Now here is what I elected to do, which was to build me an $800 battery out of Panasonic Eneloops LSD NiMH batteries wired in series (contrary to popular belief, it only takes 9 LSD batteries, not 10, to equal 12v - I'll tell you why later) to make a 12v battery. Therefore, I have 36 - 12v (1.9AH) battery packs wired in parallel to give me a 68.4AH total battery (1.9 x 36 = 68.4AH).
That's 324 Eneloop, 1900 mAH batteries at a price of around $2.25 each. Yes, a lot of dough, but I have it and I will tell you why I made my decision....first and foremost, my child's safety, because of the associated fire hazard with lithium. Even if there was just a 1% chance of such risk, I was not willing to take it due to our California residence is an apartment and the batteries would be charged and stored indoors. Also, the known durability and longevity of Eneloops and the fact I can get about 2,100 charge cycles before replacement which should easily last 5-10 years which is about $80-$160/year for the Eneloop battery pack.
Yes, the fire hazard plus the durability of Eneloops had me forking over the long green and I don't think I will regret it. I say think, because I just sold our 80lb AGM battery which hurt my back (can't take it in and out of our vehicle with a straight back) and now designing and building her Eneloop battery pack which will only weigh 24lbs
So why does 9 LSD, NiMH batteries equal 12v when everyone thinks it takes 10? Use 10 and it could fry your equipment!!! After all, 10 x 1.2v = 12v, right? Not so fast! With the rather new LSD (low self discharge) technology NiMH batteeries are now much more efficient. Compared to an AGM battery which tops out around 13v and goes all the way down to single digits as it discharges to it's max, 9 LSD NiMH batteries wired in series equals 13.1v fully charged and only go down to about 11v when used. Hence, each Panasonic Eneloop AA battery comes in around 1.45v fully charged. Multiply that by 10 x 1.45 = 14.5 volts at peak which will decrease to about 11v after full use.
While most 12v electronics are designed to take 15v peak most manufacturers will not give you the peak number because many are not designed to take more than 13v which means using 10 LSD NiMH batteries could blow your equipment. And , who would want to use 10 anyway when 9 AA batteries have a better range than an AGM battery?
So be careful and NEVER use 10 NiMH batteries to make a 12v battery pack. Only use 9 AA batteries and fill the remaining slot with a Bussman Cartridge Fuse which is the same size as a AA battery. Hence, you're not using said fuse for a fuse but rather just to complete your circuit so that you can solder onto the terminals of a 10 battery holder case.
She plays about 3.5 hours total (2 sets). 100AH/18amps = 5.56 hours playing time assuming you can drain the batteries 100% - I'll tell you how accomplished that later. But those using deep discharge AGM batteries can only drain 60-80% max which is about 3.5-4.4hrs playing time. However, I would not use an AGM battery because a good 100AH battery will set you back $380 plus it's a back-breaker coming in about 80 lbs.
Most all of the Lithium batteries are made in China regardless of what the people here in the USA claim and you in fact can buy a decent quality 100AH lithium battery from China for a few hundred dollars. In the old days it wasn't possible to bypass the distributors here in the USA because of minimum purchase requirements but with Alibaba you can find many manufacturers/distributors willing to sell you just one for a reasonable cost and they typically pay for shipping.
Now here is what I elected to do, which was to build me an $800 battery out of Panasonic Eneloops LSD NiMH batteries wired in series (contrary to popular belief, it only takes 9 LSD batteries, not 10, to equal 12v - I'll tell you why later) to make a 12v battery. Therefore, I have 36 - 12v (1.9AH) battery packs wired in parallel to give me a 68.4AH total battery (1.9 x 36 = 68.4AH).
That's 324 Eneloop, 1900 mAH batteries at a price of around $2.25 each. Yes, a lot of dough, but I have it and I will tell you why I made my decision....first and foremost, my child's safety, because of the associated fire hazard with lithium. Even if there was just a 1% chance of such risk, I was not willing to take it due to our California residence is an apartment and the batteries would be charged and stored indoors. Also, the known durability and longevity of Eneloops and the fact I can get about 2,100 charge cycles before replacement which should easily last 5-10 years which is about $80-$160/year for the Eneloop battery pack.
Yes, the fire hazard plus the durability of Eneloops had me forking over the long green and I don't think I will regret it. I say think, because I just sold our 80lb AGM battery which hurt my back (can't take it in and out of our vehicle with a straight back) and now designing and building her Eneloop battery pack which will only weigh 24lbs
So why does 9 LSD, NiMH batteries equal 12v when everyone thinks it takes 10? Use 10 and it could fry your equipment!!! After all, 10 x 1.2v = 12v, right? Not so fast! With the rather new LSD (low self discharge) technology NiMH batteeries are now much more efficient. Compared to an AGM battery which tops out around 13v and goes all the way down to single digits as it discharges to it's max, 9 LSD NiMH batteries wired in series equals 13.1v fully charged and only go down to about 11v when used. Hence, each Panasonic Eneloop AA battery comes in around 1.45v fully charged. Multiply that by 10 x 1.45 = 14.5 volts at peak which will decrease to about 11v after full use.
While most 12v electronics are designed to take 15v peak most manufacturers will not give you the peak number because many are not designed to take more than 13v which means using 10 LSD NiMH batteries could blow your equipment. And , who would want to use 10 anyway when 9 AA batteries have a better range than an AGM battery?
So be careful and NEVER use 10 NiMH batteries to make a 12v battery pack. Only use 9 AA batteries and fill the remaining slot with a Bussman Cartridge Fuse which is the same size as a AA battery. Hence, you're not using said fuse for a fuse but rather just to complete your circuit so that you can solder onto the terminals of a 10 battery holder case.
And, again, a many thanks to all of you who were kind enough to mention my daughter's talents. She's truly a blessing and maintains her down-to-earth disposition even though she is already a signed artist at the tender age of 9. We teach her never to forget her modest roots and to always love and respect others and she shows that when she performs.
I'm proud to say at age nine, she was recently signed by three top-tier talent agencies and assigned seven agents, which is why moved to LA. Members of her artist development team include people with Disney, Adele, Beyonce, John Legend and Mariah Carey, so we are all expecting that she will have a bright future in the entertainment industry.
Thanks again and blessings to all. And, I hope that others can benefit from my mad-scientist experience designing and building a 360 degree portable speaker system for my girl.
I'm proud to say at age nine, she was recently signed by three top-tier talent agencies and assigned seven agents, which is why moved to LA. Members of her artist development team include people with Disney, Adele, Beyonce, John Legend and Mariah Carey, so we are all expecting that she will have a bright future in the entertainment industry.
Thanks again and blessings to all. And, I hope that others can benefit from my mad-scientist experience designing and building a 360 degree portable speaker system for my girl.
I like a couple of the ideas - such as cutting gaskets from nylon cutting boards.
However it seems like an impressive amount of brainpower was wasted to replicate what has already been done, elsewhere.
"numerous unsuccessful attempts to get rid of the DC hum"
"at least 6 engineers"
Why not simply choose a better mixer - that already does what you want?
A few seconds of web searching gets me this. It costs less than what you used, has way more options, runs off 12V, has gads of inputs "including four balanced XLR microphone inputs" and various outputs including unbalanced RCA.
So it appears as if this basic mixer would do exactly the job you want, straight out of the box, without needing jillions of hours of expertise and experimentation to make it 'go'.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=615808
"an $800 battery [...] to give me a 68.4AH total [...] which will only weigh 24lb"
"100AH/18amps = 5.56 hours playing time"
That doesn't seem like a lot of playing time relative to the cost, weight and and effort.
The Boominator looks like a better PA. It has a 10 year history, with lots of documented variants.
The most basic version is cheaper, similar in weight (24kg for everything: amp, box, speakers, batteries), and plays for at least 10 hours. Lots of people have stated that they've used their Boominators continuously through multi-day festivals.
The Boominator blog.bluearan.co.uk
The Boominator is better than the plastic buckets in being: load bearing / safely stackable, robust to dropping / impact, and the whole system can be picked up in one hand.
The standard Boominator is a dipole (not quite omnidirectional), but could be easily tweaked to be more omni (e.g. just use two halfinators, pointing in different directions).
However it seems like an impressive amount of brainpower was wasted to replicate what has already been done, elsewhere.
"numerous unsuccessful attempts to get rid of the DC hum"
"at least 6 engineers"
Why not simply choose a better mixer - that already does what you want?
A few seconds of web searching gets me this. It costs less than what you used, has way more options, runs off 12V, has gads of inputs "including four balanced XLR microphone inputs" and various outputs including unbalanced RCA.
So it appears as if this basic mixer would do exactly the job you want, straight out of the box, without needing jillions of hours of expertise and experimentation to make it 'go'.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=615808
"an $800 battery [...] to give me a 68.4AH total [...] which will only weigh 24lb"
"100AH/18amps = 5.56 hours playing time"
That doesn't seem like a lot of playing time relative to the cost, weight and and effort.
The Boominator looks like a better PA. It has a 10 year history, with lots of documented variants.
The most basic version is cheaper, similar in weight (24kg for everything: amp, box, speakers, batteries), and plays for at least 10 hours. Lots of people have stated that they've used their Boominators continuously through multi-day festivals.
The Boominator blog.bluearan.co.uk
The Boominator is better than the plastic buckets in being: load bearing / safely stackable, robust to dropping / impact, and the whole system can be picked up in one hand.
The standard Boominator is a dipole (not quite omnidirectional), but could be easily tweaked to be more omni (e.g. just use two halfinators, pointing in different directions).
Attachments
@hollowboy
You're kidding right?
Frequency response 44-4000hz of the amateur Boominator compared to 33-20,000hz of the pro AN's? Hello? Do you even understand specs? Also, much less real watts which would never hold up in live sound with large audiences as compared to the Alpine head and 360 degree sound, which no can't be duplicated by Boominator unless it's totally redesigned, then it wouldn't be the Boominator, it would be another expensive DIY project! Also, what appears to be no sound insulation or baffles in rectangle box? I could hook up four cheap speakers and lay them on the ground without a box and save money. Hence, it all depends on the specs and without spending the long green, you typically can't get outstanding specs as the boomiator demonstrate. Good for people on a budget, but bad for people wanting and expecting the best!
Do you know anything about sound distribution and what that means in relation to wattage? The boominator would require MUCH MORE wattage to even come close to being in the same league. But it can NEVER be in the same league because it's not 360 - apples an oranges. Also, the mixer, did you see the dismal ratings? The Yamaha is a PRO mixer with 5 stars across the board not a cheap consumer mixer. You can't get something for nothing. You pay for quality! A good rule of thumb, as us engineer's know...If it's cheap, it's more than likely cheap!
Also, because my time is limited, I will no longer reply to posts with no engineering merit - I'll let you guys hash it out.
In short, respectfully, it appears you need some engineering school as calculations and real specs, don't lie. If you're on a budget, can't afford the best and just want a boom box, then one might settle for the boominator as compared to other boom boxes. But if you want to blow the competition away with a boombox or a live sound PA, then you would obviously pass on the boominator.
With that being said, I'm in LA. If anyone wants to come out here and check it out, you're more than welcome. My daughter plays live every weekend in Santa Monica. Bring your Boominator or whatever gear you have, and let me show you how the big boys play Many have tried and all have failed. And, the Boominator isn't even in the same league as the other major brand expensive, pro, hi-wattage, sound systems that our little DIY unit has put to shame. To hear it, is to believe it! And, I'll let you buy me a beer after the education
You're kidding right?
Frequency response 44-4000hz of the amateur Boominator compared to 33-20,000hz of the pro AN's? Hello? Do you even understand specs? Also, much less real watts which would never hold up in live sound with large audiences as compared to the Alpine head and 360 degree sound, which no can't be duplicated by Boominator unless it's totally redesigned, then it wouldn't be the Boominator, it would be another expensive DIY project! Also, what appears to be no sound insulation or baffles in rectangle box? I could hook up four cheap speakers and lay them on the ground without a box and save money. Hence, it all depends on the specs and without spending the long green, you typically can't get outstanding specs as the boomiator demonstrate. Good for people on a budget, but bad for people wanting and expecting the best!
Do you know anything about sound distribution and what that means in relation to wattage? The boominator would require MUCH MORE wattage to even come close to being in the same league. But it can NEVER be in the same league because it's not 360 - apples an oranges. Also, the mixer, did you see the dismal ratings? The Yamaha is a PRO mixer with 5 stars across the board not a cheap consumer mixer. You can't get something for nothing. You pay for quality! A good rule of thumb, as us engineer's know...If it's cheap, it's more than likely cheap!
Also, because my time is limited, I will no longer reply to posts with no engineering merit - I'll let you guys hash it out.
In short, respectfully, it appears you need some engineering school as calculations and real specs, don't lie. If you're on a budget, can't afford the best and just want a boom box, then one might settle for the boominator as compared to other boom boxes. But if you want to blow the competition away with a boombox or a live sound PA, then you would obviously pass on the boominator.
With that being said, I'm in LA. If anyone wants to come out here and check it out, you're more than welcome. My daughter plays live every weekend in Santa Monica. Bring your Boominator or whatever gear you have, and let me show you how the big boys play
Many have tried and all have failed. And, the Boominator isn't even in the same league as the other major brand expensive, pro, hi-wattage, sound systems that our little DIY unit has put to shame. To hear it, is to believe it! And, I'll let you buy me a beer after the education
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jtay, please restrain from such wording. May I remind you of your own words:
Yes, your daughter is adorable and we all wish her great fun while performing and, why not, we all wish her to become a star. On your side, using plastic buckets for a loudspeaker enclosure is all in a best spirit of DIY. But...
http://www.commonsenseaudio.com/an12classicspecs.jpg
Quoted 33 Hz is resonant frequency for Audio Nirvana 12" driver alone, not low frequency capability of your 8 gallon (or so) vented volume of two plastic buckets.
Boominator made from acrylic glass (Perspex, Plexiglas) seen in the link is without stuffing (damping), of course! It is for showing off primarily. Regular Boominator has stuffing (damping) inside for best performance.
Single P.Audio HP-10W has 96 dB sensitivity, but Boominator has four of them, so its sensitivity is about 99 dB.
Audio Nirvana Classic 12" Ferrite has 95.8 dB sensitivity (see datashit above) and above 99 dB sensitivity above 600 Hz.
On the end, I don't think Boominator is more adequate than your omnidirectional loudspeaker for this particular job, but please do not enter in discussion about matters you don't know enough.
So, please do not comment on matters you don't know enough (or, at all).
Yes, your daughter is adorable and we all wish her great fun while performing and, why not, we all wish her to become a star. On your side, using plastic buckets for a loudspeaker enclosure is all in a best spirit of DIY. But...
Frequency response of Boominator is not 44-4000 Hz, that is the frequency response of the midbass driver P.Audio HP-10W alone. Boominator is a two-way loudspeaker with 4 midbass drivers and 4 tweeters, so its frequency response is above 20,000 Hz. On the other hand, Audio Nirvana goes up to 15 kHz only:
http://www.commonsenseaudio.com/an12classicspecs.jpg
Quoted 33 Hz is resonant frequency for Audio Nirvana 12" driver alone, not low frequency capability of your 8 gallon (or so) vented volume of two plastic buckets.
Boominator made from acrylic glass (Perspex, Plexiglas) seen in the link is without stuffing (damping), of course! It is for showing off primarily. Regular Boominator has stuffing (damping) inside for best performance.
Single P.Audio HP-10W has 100 W RMS (not 10 W!) and 200 W music power rating, but Boominator has four HP-10W, so it has 400 W RMS and 800 W music power rating. Audio Nirvana Classic 12" Ferrite has 30 W RMS and 45 music power rating.
Single P.Audio HP-10W has 96 dB sensitivity, but Boominator has four of them, so its sensitivity is about 99 dB.
Audio Nirvana Classic 12" Ferrite has 95.8 dB sensitivity (see datashit above) and above 99 dB sensitivity above 600 Hz.
On the end, I don't think Boominator is more adequate than your omnidirectional loudspeaker for this particular job, but please do not enter in discussion about matters you don't know enough.
@Sonce I just spent 5 minutes with a comprehensive reply but it disappeared and don't know what happened to it, and I'm not going to type it out again because not worth my time. So I will end this conversation with three things...
1) you have lost all cred because you know good and well that I'm using the 10" classic AN and the specs are exactly as I stated;
2) Also, as I stated, not going to get involved in discussions with people who lack engineering design expertise. Hence, you and the other gentlemen are showing your ignorance by comparing apples to oranges which is a common problem with non-engineers.
3) There's an old adage here in the USA..."Put your money, where your mouth is". So we will end this ignorance once and for all with this offer to any believer's in the Boominater, especially Sonce, since he seems to be the most insecure and jealous of the bunch....
Sonce, I will give you, or any others, $5,000 if you're correct. That's right, my attorney's will draft an agreement with a Los Angeles bank and we both can deposit $5k in an escrow account where the bank is in total control of the funds only to be released to the winner. So now if you're so sure about your analysis, you can fly out to Los Angeles where my daughter performs every weekend and she can hook up to both systems and we will let her 360 degree large audience decide. But before you take me up on my bet, you probably should look at my resume and ask yourself if you really want to bet against me:
John R. Taylor Inventions, Patents and Patent Applications - Justia Patents Search
So loosen up and quit trying to prove with words what can't be proven in the real world. The boominator WILL GET destroyed! How am I so sure, because I'm an engineer and I understand the basics. And, because we have destroyed the best major brands costing thousands more of which the Boominator is not even close to being in the same league as those rigs.
I'll even buy the pizza and beer when it's all said and done, and, when you lose, you can still be happy knowing that you donated to my girl's college fund so it's a win/win for you either way.
So spread the word, that the anal engineer with little to no audio and/or cabinet enclosure engineering experience, who designed the little pink, 360 speakers with the Alpine amp running off of Panasonic Eneloops with some of the best audio and cabinet engineers in the business, is ready to put his money where his mouth is. It will be a fun party and for a good cause to donate to my daughter's college fund.
So what do you say? Can I expect to see you here?
Thanks!
1) you have lost all cred because you know good and well that I'm using the 10" classic AN and the specs are exactly as I stated;
2) Also, as I stated, not going to get involved in discussions with people who lack engineering design expertise. Hence, you and the other gentlemen are showing your ignorance by comparing apples to oranges which is a common problem with non-engineers.
3) There's an old adage here in the USA..."Put your money, where your mouth is". So we will end this ignorance once and for all with this offer to any believer's in the Boominater, especially Sonce, since he seems to be the most insecure and jealous of the bunch....
Sonce, I will give you, or any others, $5,000 if you're correct. That's right, my attorney's will draft an agreement with a Los Angeles bank and we both can deposit $5k in an escrow account where the bank is in total control of the funds only to be released to the winner. So now if you're so sure about your analysis, you can fly out to Los Angeles where my daughter performs every weekend and she can hook up to both systems and we will let her 360 degree large audience decide. But before you take me up on my bet, you probably should look at my resume and ask yourself if you really want to bet against me:
John R. Taylor Inventions, Patents and Patent Applications - Justia Patents Search
So loosen up and quit trying to prove with words what can't be proven in the real world. The boominator WILL GET destroyed! How am I so sure, because I'm an engineer and I understand the basics. And, because we have destroyed the best major brands costing thousands more of which the Boominator is not even close to being in the same league as those rigs.
I'll even buy the pizza and beer when it's all said and done, and, when you lose, you can still be happy knowing that you donated to my girl's college fund so it's a win/win for you either way.
So spread the word, that the anal engineer with little to no audio and/or cabinet enclosure engineering experience, who designed the little pink, 360 speakers with the Alpine amp running off of Panasonic Eneloops with some of the best audio and cabinet engineers in the business, is ready to put his money where his mouth is. It will be a fun party and for a good cause to donate to my daughter's college fund.
So what do you say? Can I expect to see you here?
Thanks!
PS: I will enlist the police out there whom I know and they will use their dB meter. I can assure you that the Boominator will reach the peak allowable by law and the crowd in the back will not be able to hear her performance from all sides, and the sound they do hear will not be quality. As compared to the little pink speakers which will not reach their peak dB and the entire crowd for blocks, that's right blocks, will hear her with a superb, high quality, sound. This could be the most fun I have had in a long time. Boy, do I need this break from my daily work! Hope someone ponies up the bucks, because my daughter is already excited about the possibility.
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Also, we will take a dB meter and continue to walk back away from her performance and take many readings at certain predetermined intervals until we don't get a reading of her music/vocals anymore. Then, you will learn really quickly why engineers have to go to school, eight long years to learn what they know. And, after you give my little girl $5k you will also learn to respect those who put in the blood, sweat and tears so that you and others can benefit at no charge. You (Sonce) and Hollowboy have a lot to learn and I'm not going to teach it to you here. But I will be happy to give you a little street lesson anytime you desire for free or for the long green, because I can include this type of fun betting in with my girl's live performance which I never miss.
And, since you are not in the USA and will be coming from Macedonia, with a more expensive flight, I might can make it US$10,000 just for you Sonce. Let me know!
And, since you are not in the USA and will be coming from Macedonia, with a more expensive flight, I might can make it US$10,000 just for you Sonce. Let me know!
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Be careful John, on a forum like this. We have many schooled engineers on here, quite a few of them are even "in business" in this particular field. Some pointers given to you were not that bad at all. Even as an engineer it would be best to look into what was said here. Some were only trying to help.
Exactly! That's the part that really matters, right?
Exactly! That's the part that really matters, right?
Thanks for your concern but I'm not directing my posts to the engineers here because they all know what I'm up to trying to sucker Sonce or any others into a bet that's impossible for them to win. And, please know that I'm doing it for fun to drive home my point although I stand by my $5k (10k for Sonce) bet offer. I bet that much on the Super Bowl and, unlike the SB, this has 100% assurances of me, actually my daughter, winning.
I can tell you without doubt that Sonce and Hollowboy are no engineers because they don't even understand the basics of outside-the-box, unorthodox, design engineering which you can not get out of a book, and which is why us engineers stay employed.
And, yes, my daughter is what really matters, and what a great time we had building it, thanks for asking! But something else really matters too is the negligence of unqualified individuals trying to be someone they're not by submitting apples when we are talking about oranges - all engineer's have little patience for such ignorance as I do. Hence, put up another 360 DIY design made with quality gear and you will be respected. Anything else, for my daughter's needs and most street performers needs (who attract large crowds) I can say with absolute 100% certainty WILL NOT cut the mustard as I have tried most, some costing thousands, and the sound engineering, for my daughter's application, doesn't lie.
But when you put forth the Boominator, which is crude engineering on it's best day, as an alternative to any 360 degree professionally engineered sound system using quality gear, you have lost all cred, unless you profess that you are an amateur then all's forgiven and we take time to explain accordingly. Can you imagine a consumer here following such unfounded hyperbole and buying the Boominator only to find out it doesn't work good enough in a live sound application when they could of had the best, to my knowledge, now. And, I'm not saying that with arrogance, as there may very well be a better 360 sound system on the market, but this thing has been field tested against the best and has never failed because it's engineered to make all non-360 sound systems hang their head in shame, >>while operating in the dB levels of the law (pay close attention Sonce and Holloboy)<< and that, IT WILL!
While Sonce and Hollowboy may have plenty of knowledge, their cred was destroyed by even the mere suggestion that the Boominator could even compete with a 360 engineered sound system for my daughter's needs. Irresponsible at worst and amateurish at best!
So hopefully, we can get back on topic and discuss 360 live sound systems and what the engineers here can do to improve this one, or to invent anther one all together because the street performers really need this type of gear and as well as the boombox types. Then, they will be properly serving the people here on this forum whom are counting on good solid advice instead of a bunch of hogwash. Make your case for the Boominator on the Boominator forum but it is simply out of it's league here as any engineer would know on first look without even looking at the specs! "Money talks Bs#%t walks" ...lets have a party in LA and raise some money for my girl's college fund And, you will get treated to one of the best live performance you've ever seen!
I can tell you without doubt that Sonce and Hollowboy are no engineers because they don't even understand the basics of outside-the-box, unorthodox, design engineering which you can not get out of a book, and which is why us engineers stay employed.
And, yes, my daughter is what really matters, and what a great time we had building it, thanks for asking! But something else really matters too is the negligence of unqualified individuals trying to be someone they're not by submitting apples when we are talking about oranges - all engineer's have little patience for such ignorance as I do. Hence, put up another 360 DIY design made with quality gear and you will be respected. Anything else, for my daughter's needs and most street performers needs (who attract large crowds) I can say with absolute 100% certainty WILL NOT cut the mustard as I have tried most, some costing thousands, and the sound engineering, for my daughter's application, doesn't lie.
But when you put forth the Boominator, which is crude engineering on it's best day, as an alternative to any 360 degree professionally engineered sound system using quality gear, you have lost all cred, unless you profess that you are an amateur then all's forgiven and we take time to explain accordingly. Can you imagine a consumer here following such unfounded hyperbole and buying the Boominator only to find out it doesn't work good enough in a live sound application when they could of had the best, to my knowledge, now. And, I'm not saying that with arrogance, as there may very well be a better 360 sound system on the market, but this thing has been field tested against the best and has never failed because it's engineered to make all non-360 sound systems hang their head in shame, >>while operating in the dB levels of the law (pay close attention Sonce and Holloboy)<< and that, IT WILL!
While Sonce and Hollowboy may have plenty of knowledge, their cred was destroyed by even the mere suggestion that the Boominator could even compete with a 360 engineered sound system for my daughter's needs. Irresponsible at worst and amateurish at best!
So hopefully, we can get back on topic and discuss 360 live sound systems and what the engineers here can do to improve this one, or to invent anther one all together because the street performers really need this type of gear and as well as the boombox types. Then, they will be properly serving the people here on this forum whom are counting on good solid advice instead of a bunch of hogwash. Make your case for the Boominator on the Boominator forum but it is simply out of it's league here as any engineer would know on first look without even looking at the specs! "Money talks Bs#%t walks" ...lets have a party in LA and raise some money for my girl's college fund
And, you will get treated to one of the best live performance you've ever seen!
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