I used this: Online Tone Generator - Free, Simple and Easy to Use.
And played different frequencies through these speakers, and between 3000 and 4000 Hz I felt the pain/distortion in my ears.
Does this help any? Thanks.
And played different frequencies through these speakers, and between 3000 and 4000 Hz I felt the pain/distortion in my ears.
Does this help any? Thanks.
small cab vs. larger cab
I know it may not be all the hearing aids' fault.
I have switched back and forth between the larger volume (0.60cf) and smaller volume (0.35cf) cabinets, and the smaller cab seems to have a noticeably lower distortion than the larger cab. Both are sealed cabs with poly fill filling the cabinet.
Any suggestions regarding this find? Thanks.
I know it may not be all the hearing aids' fault.
I have switched back and forth between the larger volume (0.60cf) and smaller volume (0.35cf) cabinets, and the smaller cab seems to have a noticeably lower distortion than the larger cab. Both are sealed cabs with poly fill filling the cabinet.
Any suggestions regarding this find? Thanks.
how to disconnect tweeter?
How can I disconnect the tweeter? I don't want to totally disable these speakers.
How can I disconnect the tweeter? I don't want to totally disable these speakers.
the smaller cab will raise the offending frequency (a shift in the vibratory mechanism)
OK... de-soldered the tweeter from each woofer.
I've got a couple of songs with the offending frequency and it seems to be attenuated some, and I am not getting the sharp sound/pain nearly as much it seems, but I will give a listen now for awhile. Additionally, I have the volume up a bit louder than I usually listen to just to "try" to create the painful sounds... but it's not happening.
But I have a question: With the tweeters disconnected, all I'm hearing now is the sound put out by the woofer, right? I've got a "wide range" woofer now, right?
Is there some meaning to all this now? Do I do anything more with these speakers?
Thanks for all the help... much appreciated.
I've got a couple of songs with the offending frequency and it seems to be attenuated some, and I am not getting the sharp sound/pain nearly as much it seems, but I will give a listen now for awhile. Additionally, I have the volume up a bit louder than I usually listen to just to "try" to create the painful sounds... but it's not happening.
But I have a question: With the tweeters disconnected, all I'm hearing now is the sound put out by the woofer, right? I've got a "wide range" woofer now, right?
Is there some meaning to all this now? Do I do anything more with these speakers?
Thanks for all the help... much appreciated.
...but I notice that I am definitely missing some highs when I touch the wire I disconnected back to the tweeter. The sound I am missing are some very high percussion sounds.
I don't know much about what instruments are what, but it seems I am missing the cymbal taps and brushes on the cymbals.
I don't know much about what instruments are what, but it seems I am missing the cymbal taps and brushes on the cymbals.
it confirms the initial diagnosis that some of the forum members had that these types of drivers with low order x-overs suffer from.
as to what to do from here, physical space and proximity to connections don't allow for a higher order x-over containing coils to be mounted at the tweeter terminals. the only thing i can think of is using an external x-over and running suspended leads to the tweeter.
as to what to do from here, physical space and proximity to connections don't allow for a higher order x-over containing coils to be mounted at the tweeter terminals. the only thing i can think of is using an external x-over and running suspended leads to the tweeter.
OK... I guess this is just pretty much a loss for me, and that's fine. I've learned a lot. I can likely use these as some outdoor speakers. I live on the Oregon coast (70 inches of rain/year). The outdoor speakers are under cover but still experience exposure to water due to the winds here. I've got a pair of Sonys working outside at this point, but they will eventually dissolve, so I'll have some replacements waiting in the wings.
Thanks, turk12, for all the guidance here. Appreciate your patience and all.
smooth to my ears!
they started out with a crazy impulse to recycle the speaker mounting frames from an old ColorTrac 2000 tv set but i've yet to paint them. i just can't stop listening to em...
thing that made me think of you was that i happened to be listening to the piano from Bruce Hornsby and the Range
they started out with a crazy impulse to recycle the speaker mounting frames from an old ColorTrac 2000 tv set but i've yet to paint them. i just can't stop listening to em...
thing that made me think of you was that i happened to be listening to the piano from Bruce Hornsby and the Range
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Let's apply some engineering process of elimination to this.
Play the 0.6s so you hear the annoying pitch. Now swap the 0.3s into the same spot. Still hear it?
Assuming not, swap the 0.3 drivers into the 0.6 cabinets. Still happen?
In either of the above, then you either didn't notice the problem before, or you have become psychologically sensitized to it.
If it does NOT occur, then there is some difference between the drivers. These are obviously cheap and quality control may suck --> refund, or get a new set and give the offenders to someone else. (You can also switch the speakers between left and right to see if it is just one of the speakers).
This kind of design is just like many car audio speakers I worked with. In my long experience there was always-always!-a response bump problem due to geometry, and then a phase problem caused by the crappy little capacitor not really giving a good crossover to the tweeter (among other things because the tweeter impedance would rise at its resonance frequency, so the crossover effect wouldn't really work there). Changing the capacitor size does not help, there is a peak/dip which just moves around.
An inductor on the woofer doesn't really help much, because the impedance of the woofer is rising, negating the crossover effect of the inductor. Plus the usual inductors applies are cheap little crummy things.
So what is needed is really a much more sophisticated crossover, which the cheap nature of the driver does not really merit.
Anyway, try those tests and let's see what happens.
head_unit... thanks for your reply. I've done all of that... just hadn't said. It's not just one speaker, or one pair of speakers... it's all of 'em. I think the offending frequency is in the 3K-4K range. I tried them even in an open baffle arrangement... still way too hot.
I've since taken those speakers out of any system I have and am now playing around with a Pioneer BOFU clone in some sealed 1.0 cu ft cabinets. I like their sound and there is none of the harsh sound those other speakers made.
I think that you are correct that these speakers should be in a car or some other kind of area.. maybe ceiling speakers.
I've since taken those speakers out of any system I have and am now playing around with a Pioneer BOFU clone in some sealed 1.0 cu ft cabinets. I like their sound and there is none of the harsh sound those other speakers made.
I think that you are correct that these speakers should be in a car or some other kind of area.. maybe ceiling speakers.
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