I guess both configurations may relieve the OB Xmax capabilities, it's true tho that if used as a regular 1.5 it would still hit Xmax before the ported one.
Hadn't sim TC9... in my case its actually not the bass, but a 1Khz peak diffraction related that i'm trying to avoid, but i guess a 1.5 wounldn't solve that.
I could tame that by either making the port sum in the 180-200 Hz region (but the top would be sort attenuated by the effect of this two boost effects), playing with the front baffle, or putting a filter somewhere (which i'm trying to avoid).
I guess the series 1.5 offers an alternative to make a variant for those of us who ended up with 4 ohm drivers.
Maybe a reverse of polarity like the one that gave you that wonderfull response may even help with my 1Khz potential problem.
Best regards!
Hadn't sim TC9... in my case its actually not the bass, but a 1Khz peak diffraction related that i'm trying to avoid, but i guess a 1.5 wounldn't solve that.
I could tame that by either making the port sum in the 180-200 Hz region (but the top would be sort attenuated by the effect of this two boost effects), playing with the front baffle, or putting a filter somewhere (which i'm trying to avoid).
I guess the series 1.5 offers an alternative to make a variant for those of us who ended up with 4 ohm drivers.
Maybe a reverse of polarity like the one that gave you that wonderfull response may even help with my 1Khz potential problem.
Best regards!
After a few failed starts, finally got mine built. I used my PrintNC CNC router to cut the pieces.
I ended up trying to clone the original shape, but used Duratex for the finish. These are 5x5x12 made from 1/2in MDF (the specs say 5.5x5.5x12, but I used original pictures as a canvas in my Fusion 360 design and I'm almost sure they're actually 5in).
I'd peeled off the foam on the front of 2 of the drivers for my last project - getting the glue off so they didn't look like garbage was a huge pain. It almost seems like hot glue since Goo-Gone did nothing; I had to carefully use a razor, which was especially a pain between the frame and rubber surround. Moral of the story: don't take the foam off.
These were my first attempt at a "properly" finished speaker.. lots of lessons learned. Will be pairing them with a Pro Cinema ProSub100 that I got cheap.
Next project: Tarkus!
I ended up trying to clone the original shape, but used Duratex for the finish. These are 5x5x12 made from 1/2in MDF (the specs say 5.5x5.5x12, but I used original pictures as a canvas in my Fusion 360 design and I'm almost sure they're actually 5in).
I'd peeled off the foam on the front of 2 of the drivers for my last project - getting the glue off so they didn't look like garbage was a huge pain. It almost seems like hot glue since Goo-Gone did nothing; I had to carefully use a razor, which was especially a pain between the frame and rubber surround. Moral of the story: don't take the foam off.
These were my first attempt at a "properly" finished speaker.. lots of lessons learned. Will be pairing them with a Pro Cinema ProSub100 that I got cheap.
Next project: Tarkus!
Would somebody help me with the port dimensions, please?
I've modelled the speaker in fusion360 based on the measures available on p. 9 of this thread. With a wall thickness of 18mm I see a volume of the lower chamber of 1.13 l. Playing around with the wall dimensions, the volume can be increased (10mm walls gives ca. 1.25l.) The file is attached if you want to play around - just modify the parameters in the table.
This volume does not give me any useful port dimensions with the available online calculators (more than 2m would be required for a tuning frequency of 80Hz). Am I missing something?
The idea is to print it in two parts with gyroid infill and pour resin into the walls.
I've modelled the speaker in fusion360 based on the measures available on p. 9 of this thread. With a wall thickness of 18mm I see a volume of the lower chamber of 1.13 l. Playing around with the wall dimensions, the volume can be increased (10mm walls gives ca. 1.25l.) The file is attached if you want to play around - just modify the parameters in the table.
This volume does not give me any useful port dimensions with the available online calculators (more than 2m would be required for a tuning frequency of 80Hz). Am I missing something?
The idea is to print it in two parts with gyroid infill and pour resin into the walls.
Attachments
I don't think you would want the port to go that low, remember the orginal design, goes with a sub. A sub may be suitable below shroederer frequency, even higher if its more like a woofe assisted wideband. If you tune the port that low, odds are you will end up with a dip in frequency.
You can find distortion measurment for this driver in timothy feleppa's measurments: https://feleppa.com.au/speakermeasmid.html . There are other distortion measurments from XRK nautaloss if i remember correctly and some others (google: "inurl:diyaudio.com tc9 tg9").
Despite humans seem to like distortion below 250-200 Hz, i wouldn't aim for a crossover frequency (with sub) below say 120Hz for this driver, i would aim for like 180 Hz myself (depending on your croossover odds are the woofer will be audible well below Fx, some say into F10).
I believe this design may alter the directivity patern of the speaker itself, making the lower end response not omni. Its messy tho to figure out, you would have front wave open baffle and ported woofers on phase, and rear open baffle and port counterphase (where its tuned).
WinISD, Basta!, Vituixcad (steeper learning curve) and others will help you find out port dimensions to achieve a slow enough moving air mass for your desired tuning frequency. I think other reported which port they used upper in this thread.
You can find distortion measurment for this driver in timothy feleppa's measurments: https://feleppa.com.au/speakermeasmid.html . There are other distortion measurments from XRK nautaloss if i remember correctly and some others (google: "inurl:diyaudio.com tc9 tg9").
Despite humans seem to like distortion below 250-200 Hz, i wouldn't aim for a crossover frequency (with sub) below say 120Hz for this driver, i would aim for like 180 Hz myself (depending on your croossover odds are the woofer will be audible well below Fx, some say into F10).
I believe this design may alter the directivity patern of the speaker itself, making the lower end response not omni. Its messy tho to figure out, you would have front wave open baffle and ported woofers on phase, and rear open baffle and port counterphase (where its tuned).
WinISD, Basta!, Vituixcad (steeper learning curve) and others will help you find out port dimensions to achieve a slow enough moving air mass for your desired tuning frequency. I think other reported which port they used upper in this thread.
Driver specs? Desired tuning? Can't open your attachments and no p. 9, just 7 for me.
Thank you, @vdljev, @parceval, @GM. I have printed an enclosure with measurements similar to those given in this thread in post 172 and 178 and will put two TC9F18-08 in it that I have laying around. Will also try and dig into Virtuixcad over the next couple of days.
@GM: Can you say why the attachment dint' open? It should be a 7zip'ed Fusion360 archive file. Attaching the latest version.
@GM: Can you say why the attachment dint' open? It should be a 7zip'ed Fusion360 archive file. Attaching the latest version.
