I had the cutouts done in about 30-45 mins. The precut with the knife assures that when I get close with the router it will indicate the fine line without tear out, which left at most a light paring of any residuals. I enjoyed the process, regardless.
Oooohh..
Looks like I have 4 Visaton B80 coming my way, for real!
They were meant for another project, but I will probably put them in my little clones to see how they fare there. I'm expecting just as good, and we'll see if it can even be better than with the TC9s.
They would rack the price of the little clones much higher though.
Looks like I have 4 Visaton B80 coming my way, for real!
They were meant for another project, but I will probably put them in my little clones to see how they fare there. I'm expecting just as good, and we'll see if it can even be better than with the TC9s.
They would rack the price of the little clones much higher though.
I'm still rocking the clones as originally built. What a buncha BS to be taken aback by $12 drivers with as many expensive speakers I have in this house. I am finding these things can be EQ'd with the sub to just about any flavor you like for any reasonable room, and near field as well. I have some Peerless SLS 8's I am going to try and mate them with since I have DSP and EQ capabilities.
I know!
That little TC9 sounds pretty good by itself, and with a touch of EQ, it will impress (well, there are some you just can't win...).
But... I just received the Visaton B80 today! Feels like Xmas!
Nice and shiny little units.
It was a test as I wasn't sure they would make it all the way here... my address is quite complicated and downright confusing when translated in English... which needs to be translated back in Chinese by the local countryside post office.... nevertheless, they did arrive and now I know I can order without the fear of being lost in transit!
I have one problem though.
The bezel is much larger than the TC9, so, if I want to try them in the Nola clones, I need to make the holes much bigger, but then, the TC9s won't fit later.
That little TC9 sounds pretty good by itself, and with a touch of EQ, it will impress (well, there are some you just can't win...).
But... I just received the Visaton B80 today! Feels like Xmas!
Nice and shiny little units.
It was a test as I wasn't sure they would make it all the way here... my address is quite complicated and downright confusing when translated in English... which needs to be translated back in Chinese by the local countryside post office.... nevertheless, they did arrive and now I know I can order without the fear of being lost in transit!
I have one problem though.
The bezel is much larger than the TC9, so, if I want to try them in the Nola clones, I need to make the holes much bigger, but then, the TC9s won't fit later.
Attachments
Could always glue blanks back in the holes and route them again to fit the TC9's.
When I built my continuums, I tried them raw first and veneered them after all the holes were cut/rounded over etc. I ended up epoxying in new cookies in the holes so I could rout/round over the subsequent veneer tight. Worked like a charm.
ETA: Is always nice getting new drivers. Which is something I need to quit doing. I have quite a collection going here.
Oh, c'mon... getting new drivers feels like Christmas!
Especially some that measure so well... There is no EQ whatsoever here, the only thing I did was to measure 10 degrees off. Straight on has a slight rise after 10kHz, but a 10 degrees tilt makes it almost flat. That is a well-behaved driver. No shout, no need for a notch anywhere.
After taking a look at WinISD, I think those B80 would like to be in a 6 litres vented box instead... they feel a little cramped in the original Nola clone version.
I also checked them in a MLTL, but T/S values were a bit off... online it says Qts of 0.63, but the drivers I got have a Qts of 0.81.
Especially some that measure so well... There is no EQ whatsoever here, the only thing I did was to measure 10 degrees off. Straight on has a slight rise after 10kHz, but a 10 degrees tilt makes it almost flat. That is a well-behaved driver. No shout, no need for a notch anywhere.
After taking a look at WinISD, I think those B80 would like to be in a 6 litres vented box instead... they feel a little cramped in the original Nola clone version.
I also checked them in a MLTL, but T/S values were a bit off... online it says Qts of 0.63, but the drivers I got have a Qts of 0.81.
Attachments
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Oh, c'mon... getting new drivers feels like Christmas!
Especially some that measure so well... There is no EQ whatsoever here, the only thing I did was to measure 10 degrees off. Straight on has a slight rise after 10kHz, but a 10 degrees tilt makes it almost flat. That is a well-behaved driver. No shout, no need for a notch anywhere.
After taking a look at WinISD, I think those B80 would like to be in a 6 litres vented box instead... they feel a little cramped in the original Nola clone version.
I also checked them in a MLTL, but T/S values were a bit off... online it says Qts of 0.63, but the drivers I got have a Qts of 0.81.
Today I built a little Peerless SLS 8" sealed sub to go with the NB. This little system is tough to beat. I have another SLS 8" driver so I may as well build a stereo pair to go with these speakers, also considering I have another channel of an Inuke dsp amp not being used.
I've been listening to music in this room for 24 years. I have a sense of what will work in here and back from the days where we did all this by ear. Add in the widely variable DSP from the amp, EQ at the source, and some other old tricks and it all works out. I'm getting all the bass that should be in the music. Still at -6db on the gain control. I have it dialed in pretty sweet right now. You'd swear it was just coming from the clones, or even other speakers I have in the room.
I have to kind of laugh about room modes. A friend of mine who's a real measurement hound, buys a new subwoofer and he's crawling on his hands and knees, trying to stuff this monster sub behind sofas, up-firing, down-firing etc. He's all bummed out because he's tried auto EQ to death, and all of his controls and this subwoofer will not blend with the room or his main speakers. So, I tell him to get me a bath towel. I drape it over the top of the sub so it covers the top of the cabinet and the driver completely. Sub disappears instantly. Plenty of clean bass, but no longer a sore in the room. He still has it like that and he can put the sub in more places where it fits with the added benefit of no dust on the driver.
Port question
Hey guys... can anyone help me understand why these are ported? I'm building these and decided to model the lower box in WinISD. Looking at the graphs (assuming I'm modeling these right--my first time) it appears that sealed is the way to go (I'm crossing over with a sub-- 8" Dayton audio). Am I missing something? I don't think it helps with baffle-step comp as a width of ~5.5" isn't close to the "hump" caused by the port as far as I can figure...
What does the port gain you in this speaker vs sealed besides a steeper slope and what appears to me as uneven response?
Hey guys... can anyone help me understand why these are ported? I'm building these and decided to model the lower box in WinISD. Looking at the graphs (assuming I'm modeling these right--my first time) it appears that sealed is the way to go (I'm crossing over with a sub-- 8" Dayton audio). Am I missing something? I don't think it helps with baffle-step comp as a width of ~5.5" isn't close to the "hump" caused by the port as far as I can figure...
What does the port gain you in this speaker vs sealed besides a steeper slope and what appears to me as uneven response?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Follow-up to my question...
Thanks for the reply... greatly appreciated!
The first ones I'm building will be a xmas present for my wife's office so def near-field with sub. Based on that would you do ported or sealed? Her desk is oriented in a corner so will not be near a boundary. If you recommend ported what size does your modeling indicate (diameter and length)? I have both 1" (2.54cm) and 1.5" (3.81cm) diameter ports from Parts Express to choose from currently.
If it matters I will be using Roon to a ORB Audio Mini-T (has Sub out) so DSP is an option.
I'd still like to know the why behind Nola's decision to port these as well as why my model shows a "hump" in the frequency response?
The attached image shows my sealed vs ported (green line) model.
Sorry for all the questions... trying to learn this as I've only ever built sealed subs before (Rythmik) and I want to step up my game.
Kind Regards,
Mark
Thanks for the reply... greatly appreciated!
The first ones I'm building will be a xmas present for my wife's office so def near-field with sub. Based on that would you do ported or sealed? Her desk is oriented in a corner so will not be near a boundary. If you recommend ported what size does your modeling indicate (diameter and length)? I have both 1" (2.54cm) and 1.5" (3.81cm) diameter ports from Parts Express to choose from currently.
If it matters I will be using Roon to a ORB Audio Mini-T (has Sub out) so DSP is an option.
I'd still like to know the why behind Nola's decision to port these as well as why my model shows a "hump" in the frequency response?
The attached image shows my sealed vs ported (green line) model.
Sorry for all the questions... trying to learn this as I've only ever built sealed subs before (Rythmik) and I want to step up my game.
Kind Regards,
Mark
Attachments
Today I built a little Peerless SLS 8" sealed sub to go with the NB. This little system is tough to beat. I have another SLS 8" driver so I may as well build a stereo pair to go with these speakers, also considering I have another channel of an Inuke dsp amp not being used.
Which Peerless driver is that? Box volume? They look like the perfect size for my office system.
Thanks!
Sealed, you are looking at 150Hz then the TC9 starts falling down. At 150Hz, I start to hear where the bass is coming from. So, if you have a single sub on the right or left side only, I would feel the unbalanced sound.
Going vented, that "hump" will be picked up. by the room and enhanced, giving you a reach closer to 100Hz, which is easier to cross to a single sub.
Also, are you sure the Nola clones are a good match to put in a corner of a room? The OB design will probably not fare well in a corner...
It's the Peerless by Tymphany 830667 8" Paper Cone SLS Subwoofer
The box volume is based on the Nola Brio Trio sub (12"WX12"HX17"D, minus the plate amp. I just didn't make it square. I wanted it to fit 'between' more places and I am firing it with a Behringer inuke 3000dsp amp.
A really good match for these speakers is the Dayton RSS315HF-4.
The Dayton RSS sub I followed the dimensions for the sealed version per Zaph audio's archive page.
I used a variation on this idea to knock up a soundbar. Waiting on some caps and inductors to cross it over at 900 HZ. But even running some off the shelf crossovers that I had kicking around, which cross at 2.5 KHZ it sounds pretty good. The little 3116 cuts out at moderate volume which may improve once I fix the crossovers but I also have a better amp and power supply on order.
