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Old 15th August 2016, 07:23 PM   #1
KarlD is offline KarlD  United Kingdom
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Default Desperate help required for a super simple box design!

Hi everyone,

Someone has asked me if I could build some boxes (6 in total) to house one of these drivers in each -

https://m.rapidonline.com/visaton-30...-8-ohm-35-0577

It's for their masters degree final project/show - something to do with programming, not audio.

They have a small exhibition space of about 8'x8' which is a divided space in a large hall, and 6x 20w class D amps to drive the speakers.

They don't need to be loud or HiFi - just a small box in which they will "work" and people standing a few feet away will be able to hear what's coming out of them.

Can anyone please design a small compact box for me to CNC out and build so I can get them posted to him? He was going to have someone provide speakers for him, but they've let him down and he has only 10 days before his show!

Cheers!
Karl
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Old 15th August 2016, 08:20 PM   #2
Mayuri is offline Mayuri  Finland
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Here's a quick smashup. Not hifi at all, but should work in a large open space. Small cube, should be easy to find a place to that. Dimensions are internal dimensions. The divider and wall material can be about 1cm thick. The dimensions aren't exact at all, I'll leave you iron them out. If you make them prettier and you have CNC you can round all the baffle edges, makes it a cute little cube. Should be easy to build, only 7 pieces of wood that you glue together after CNC. It's just a general idea of what could work

Click the image to open in full size.
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Last edited by Mayuri; 15th August 2016 at 08:38 PM.
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Old 15th August 2016, 11:10 PM   #3
Mayuri is offline Mayuri  Finland
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Here is version 2, which is much better. It needs only 5 boards to cut and gives a lot better bass. The low end rises in frequency response and amplitude if you make the hole in the top larger, so you can adjust it between 2.5-5cm. If it's a big open space as you mentioned, a 5cm cut out of the back board might be better than 2.5cm. You don't even need a BSC circuit for this design! If I had to pick one of the designs, I'd choose this to build. Again, dimensions are internal dimensions. 1cm thick material is ok.

Click the image to open in full size.

Also, if the speakers are on the ground, you can put the driver on the back board so it's tilted upwards towards the listener and place the cut at the narrow end to the backside. Either version works very well. Send pics if you decide to build it, I want to see how CNC works
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Last edited by Mayuri; 15th August 2016 at 11:20 PM.
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Old 16th August 2016, 08:25 AM   #4
KarlD is offline KarlD  United Kingdom
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Wow! That's absolutely legendary! Thank you so much. I'll put the idea's to him and see if they'll fit in his installation. I'll certainly put some pics up for you. Thank you again!
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Old 16th August 2016, 08:31 AM   #5
Mayuri is offline Mayuri  Finland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlD View Post
Wow! That's absolutely legendary! Thank you so much. I'll put the idea's to him and see if they'll fit in his installation. I'll certainly put some pics up for you. Thank you again!
You're welcome. If you have some required space it needs to fit, I can make the design wrapped around on that. If you have the possibility, you should route the front edges of the baffle round. It doesn't matter much, but it gives a nice finishing touch and helps with the baffle diffractions a lot.
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Old 16th August 2016, 08:45 AM   #6
KarlD is offline KarlD  United Kingdom
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I assume these dimensions are the internal box volume?
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Old 16th August 2016, 08:46 AM   #7
Mayuri is offline Mayuri  Finland
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Yes, these are all internal dimensions. If you make it from very thin material, you should add a brace or two in the middle between front and back baffles. Nothing special, just sticks which glue them together. Also regarding the stuffing, you should stuff it about halfway the enclosure. Not too tight, just enough that it stays at place without glue. Pillow stuffing is good, no point putting anything fancier in these.

Last edited by Mayuri; 16th August 2016 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 16th August 2016, 08:59 AM   #8
KarlD is offline KarlD  United Kingdom
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Click the image to open in full size.

Could they work like this?

I think the box size may be a bit too large for the space he has :-( the first design might be more suitable.
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Old 16th August 2016, 09:09 AM   #9
Mayuri is offline Mayuri  Finland
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The end port needs to be at the narrow end, it can be on front baffle as well though. If you put it in the wide end, you will get absolutely no bass out of it and a very wonky response. Otherwise that looks good. This is a transmission line design, so you have to glue the boards very tightly. If there's air leaks for example in between the driver flange and the enclosure or the middle board and the sides in the cube, you will lose all the bass.

If you can give me the measurements that it needs to fit in, I can make it fit the space needed. Anyhow, here's another 20cm x 20cm cube. Stuff the end part of the pipe with pillow stuffing, etc. what you have at hand. A large-ish wad of pillow stuffing that you have to compress a little would work perfectly. If not that, old woolen socks are also ok The port height in this picture is 2cm. If you make a cube, you don't need bracing, it should be very solid structure.

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Last edited by Mayuri; 16th August 2016 at 09:33 AM.
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Old 17th August 2016, 07:46 PM   #10
KarlD is offline KarlD  United Kingdom
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I'm really sorry but the guy I was doing this for has said it's too expensive and is going to look for another solution. As a favour, I was charging him 100 TOTAL for CNC machining from 12mm birch ply, assembling and stuffing 6 of the triangular cabinets. Some people are unbelievable.
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