Fostex FE103En recomended enclosure

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I designed and made a Karlsonator for the FE103SOL but tested it with Radio Shack 40-1197 (FE103 labeled) and it sounds nice. I don't know if the eN is close in TS parameters but the cabinet is pretty accepting. The CHN-70 sounds really good in it. I have sound clips posted on other threads - probably FE103SOL thread. Basically achieves flat response down to 70Hz with full sensitivity rating and no BSC required. Rich full bodied bass. I can run a sim for the eN if you are interested.
 
XRK, advocating for the CHN-70 indicates he's not bashing the drivers. Apparently their frequency response works to their advantage in the Karlsonator.

I'm going to dig up the dimensions MJK determined worked best for the 40-1197. It's a simple, small ported box that was well regarded over at fullrangedriver.com several years back.

Personally, I'd put the 1197 / Fostex 103 into BIBs to bring up their bass response. I had the 1197 in BK101 back horns years ago and they were pretty good against a wall or in a corner without any bass support.
 

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XRK, advocating for the CHN-70 indicates he's not bashing the drivers. Apparently their frequency response works to their advantage in the Karlsonator.

It was serendipty that made the CHN70 work out - now it has a home on my desk as my PC speaker (right side) and the FF105WK TL (on the left side) as my other PC speaker. Togethter, they are quite a formidable pair. I would even recommend buying the CHN70 (given that it's not expensive) to put in a K'nator - it's quite good.

I put the A7.3 in my flat wall mount MLTL (15in x 15in "pizza box") and brought that to my office as my office speaker. People have commented already that it sounds really good. Actually, I have a question since I only have one speaker - how do you hardwire a stereo class AB amp to make mono? Can I take two 1k resistors to combine L+R from the source and put the middle tap to one of the channel inputs? Alternatively can this be done at speaker level by taking L+R outputs through two power resistors (like 5R 10 watts) and then summing them to a common tap which then drives the single speaker? I do something like that now for my SSS (single stereo speaker where L & R go through two own drivers and output (-ve) from those drivers combine to drive center
driver. Just substituting the resistors for the L & R drivers. It's a bit wasteful but don't need much for office.

My feeling is, all drivers deserve a home somewhere rather than collecting dust on a shelf.
 
Hi Traxander:
Like Planet10, I also built the recommended BLH but for the previous FE103E and trashed it. There is an earlier thread here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...ng-fostex-fe103-recommended-horn-cabinet.html about this.

I was happy with the Fostex BR enclosure but it never provided satisfactory bass. It's a nice, small speaker, and good if you don't have much space. I also tried it in a BIB and thought this was the best single driver enclosure for it - BUT never tried it in a Frugel-Horn which is reported to be the best enclosure for it.

I was happiest pairing it with an Eminence Alpha 15A in an OB according to MJKing's plans here http://www.quarter-wave.com/OBs/OB_Design.pdf. However, the OB is large and needs space in a room.
 

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Hi,

To turn stereo to mono :

Connect 4.7K in series with each input. Common the inputs.
Combine the outputs via say 2 0.33R for a single output
to common ground. For bridged amplifiers use 4 resistors.

rgds, sreten.

I just did this mod to my TDA7297 "Lunch Money Amp" and it works like gangbusters! I only had 2k input resistors on hand and 2ohm output power resistors but it works fine. Maybe I can get more volume when I swap out the 2k for 4.7k in future. I cut the trace on PCB from input phone jack to pot and replaced with 2k in series.
 
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