My 10p Pensils are built and sitting in my music room. They're not finished fully as I have to shellac the cabinets.
Whilst deciding on whether to darken the Appleply maple plywood, or keep it light, I wonder whether I should be ordering to carpet spikes.
They will sit on carpet over concrete.
Any thoughts?
Charlie
Whilst deciding on whether to darken the Appleply maple plywood, or keep it light, I wonder whether I should be ordering to carpet spikes.
They will sit on carpet over concrete.
Any thoughts?
Charlie
After damaging both carpet and hardwood floors with spiked speakers / stands, I personally avoid them like the plague.
As for finishing the Apple ply - I've have mixed results with staining the maple face veneers, and would generally suggest a clear top coat if not veneering - my personal favorite finish is sprayed catalyzed nitrocellulose lacquer or conversion varnish.
As for finishing the Apple ply - I've have mixed results with staining the maple face veneers, and would generally suggest a clear top coat if not veneering - my personal favorite finish is sprayed catalyzed nitrocellulose lacquer or conversion varnish.
Maple can get slightly blotchy with staining. So far, I love the light colour of the cabinets and they lighten the room.
I tested some spare Appleply with clear and Amber shellac and I like the finish of the clear shellac. I'll test a bit more that has been pretreated with pure Tung Oil as it should give a little more grain contrast. Then I'll clear shellac and polish with 000 steel wool and mineral oil.
Charlie
I tested some spare Appleply with clear and Amber shellac and I like the finish of the clear shellac. I'll test a bit more that has been pretreated with pure Tung Oil as it should give a little more grain contrast. Then I'll clear shellac and polish with 000 steel wool and mineral oil.
Charlie
Yeah, staining maple is generally speaking a no no. Tinted lacquer coats are the conventional way to darken maple. Garnet, orange or amber shellac is the old fashioned equivalent. If using shellac, you can also oil with linseed oil first. Darkens wood slightly and pops any figure. Seems like shellac wouldn't stick but it does. However, it is a very old fashioned look. Your tung oil should have about the same effect but with less yellowing/darkening.
If required, I like to make my own spikes by chucking 1/2" aluminum rod into a drill press and grinding and sanding the ends into a parabolic shape. This is enough for them to seat well into carpet, without damaging anything.
Sharp point spikes seem to be based on some sort of fundamental misunderstanding of acoustics.
If required, I like to make my own spikes by chucking 1/2" aluminum rod into a drill press and grinding and sanding the ends into a parabolic shape. This is enough for them to seat well into carpet, without damaging anything.
Sharp point spikes seem to be based on some sort of fundamental misunderstanding of acoustics.
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