I am almost finished with my MLTL's (Bob Brines model) that use a single Fe167e from Fostex and am already looking down the road toward getting a center channel made to match.
I obviously cannot use the same size box on top of the TV so would love some input as to how to do the center channel. Am I right in assuming that I can compensate for a smaller box by adding a second 167 in the cneter channel box (for a 3db increase)? Probably in a 167 port 167 configuration.
Thanks for input.
I obviously cannot use the same size box on top of the TV so would love some input as to how to do the center channel. Am I right in assuming that I can compensate for a smaller box by adding a second 167 in the cneter channel box (for a 3db increase)? Probably in a 167 port 167 configuration.
Thanks for input.
I've always thought (maybe erroneously) that LF is less critical for a center channel speaker. If that's true, then a smaller BR box should work. As for phantom centers (American spelling) I can see the appeal unless you can get the sound from the center speaker to come out of the middle of your display. 
The listening position is not perfect right now (slightly off-axis), but I may rearrange the living room to adjust for that. I am hoping for very good stageing with these speakers but what is great about a ccenter channel is that you can reinforce the vocals so that you hear the dialogue much better.
I know mine will not do it but I do not know if other high end receivers will increase center channel volume independently from left/right when using a virtual speaker setup.
I saw the Channel One speaker on the fostex guys website. Not Fostex.com but http://www.fostexspeakers.com/fostex.html and am thinking something along those lines. Except 25 wide by 10 by 13 seems huge to put above a normal tube TV - maybe a projection no problem but not my 27inch. I will need to downsize it I think.
I know mine will not do it but I do not know if other high end receivers will increase center channel volume independently from left/right when using a virtual speaker setup.
I saw the Channel One speaker on the fostex guys website. Not Fostex.com but http://www.fostexspeakers.com/fostex.html and am thinking something along those lines. Except 25 wide by 10 by 13 seems huge to put above a normal tube TV - maybe a projection no problem but not my 27inch. I will need to downsize it I think.
By reinforce I meant that I could increase the volume of the center channel where most of the vocals on digital is sent to. I will be trying it out when I finish the speakers this weekend so I will see how it goes. In some movies it is some times hard for me to hear what they are saying over some of the special effects.
I may rearrange the room so that I am in a triangle instead of on square and see how that works.
I may rearrange the room so that I am in a triangle instead of on square and see how that works.
Use two 167s in a bipole layout with the rear one rolled off so it acts only to compensate for baffle step loss. This is the standard CYA suggestion.
If you're in an experimental mood, while I'm with Dave on setting the room up so that you get a strong phantom center, I've noticed that they've started mixing movies with a strong mono center and the 'mains' relegated to little more than front surrounds, so I propose a limited BW high intelligibility CC alignment based on human hearing and perception research to add just a little center 'fill' as required:
The response above 2kHz rolls off 3dB for each octave, i.e. -3dB at 4kHz; -6dB at 8kHz; -9dB at 16kHz. The response from 125Hz to 2kHz is flat with a window of ±2dB. Frequencies below 125Hz are rolled off at 6dB/octave, though in this case a max flat BR is fine since it will be XOing to a sub.
Obviously, this will either require some experimentation to do the EQ acoustically or add a dedicated digital EQ for just the CC.
GM
If you're in an experimental mood, while I'm with Dave on setting the room up so that you get a strong phantom center, I've noticed that they've started mixing movies with a strong mono center and the 'mains' relegated to little more than front surrounds, so I propose a limited BW high intelligibility CC alignment based on human hearing and perception research to add just a little center 'fill' as required:
The response above 2kHz rolls off 3dB for each octave, i.e. -3dB at 4kHz; -6dB at 8kHz; -9dB at 16kHz. The response from 125Hz to 2kHz is flat with a window of ±2dB. Frequencies below 125Hz are rolled off at 6dB/octave, though in this case a max flat BR is fine since it will be XOing to a sub.
Obviously, this will either require some experimentation to do the EQ acoustically or add a dedicated digital EQ for just the CC.
GM
did you have to double the box volume too?GM said:
according to http://www.fostexspeakers.com/fostex.html the 206 is the fostex fullrange to get.
i prefer the smaller fostex for 2 reasons. smaller box size and less beaming at upper freqenccies.
i assume the whizzer cone is designed to compensate for the beaming. the whizzer cone is sort of like a passive radiator (albeit at higher freq). how well behaved is the response of thiswhizzer? my guess is that this whizzer is what creates the raggedness in the upper freq.
help me!
Hello everyone,
Sooner Im going to build d'same project as Tiggerpif built "FT1600", Im just waiting for my stuffed to be here (thank's to a friend). I want to ask every one expertise, also who made d'same project specially Tiggerpif, did you (all) buy Bob Braines plan design or just used Bob existing plans from his website and do some tweaking, also did you people used Bob "BSC ckt" or just disregard it (filter). And also I want some review of how "FT1600" sound. I'm afraid, if I could not built one of yours. Or do I really need to buy the plan for $25(I'm on a tight budget). Any input, comment and suggestion will be appreciated. Btw I'm 100% newbie in this field, so please gentleman i want your explanation to be very friendly.
Hello everyone,
Sooner Im going to build d'same project as Tiggerpif built "FT1600", Im just waiting for my stuffed to be here (thank's to a friend). I want to ask every one expertise, also who made d'same project specially Tiggerpif, did you (all) buy Bob Braines plan design or just used Bob existing plans from his website and do some tweaking, also did you people used Bob "BSC ckt" or just disregard it (filter). And also I want some review of how "FT1600" sound. I'm afraid, if I could not built one of yours. Or do I really need to buy the plan for $25(I'm on a tight budget). Any input, comment and suggestion will be appreciated. Btw I'm 100% newbie in this field, so please gentleman i want your explanation to be very friendly.
I haven't even bothered with it.
Just with the two Fostex mains the vocals are amazingly clear and if I want more centered image from some movies I just turn on the Vmax circuit on my Harmon/Kardon and it strengthens it up. It simulates a center channel from the two mains.
I do not think I will even bother with it. I just finished the veneer on the subwoofer of mine and would like a more tighter accurate base than a bandpass can do but for movies it is perfect. I think spiking the sub to the floor (HDWD) with the small metal pads to protect the wood will make the base more accurate. The only problem is the spikes that I get from Parts express use a M6 stud - very hard to get brass wood inserts for them. Right now the sub uses rubber feet.
So I think that for the current housing situation the center channel is scrapped. I just don't feel the need for it now.
Just with the two Fostex mains the vocals are amazingly clear and if I want more centered image from some movies I just turn on the Vmax circuit on my Harmon/Kardon and it strengthens it up. It simulates a center channel from the two mains.
I do not think I will even bother with it. I just finished the veneer on the subwoofer of mine and would like a more tighter accurate base than a bandpass can do but for movies it is perfect. I think spiking the sub to the floor (HDWD) with the small metal pads to protect the wood will make the base more accurate. The only problem is the spikes that I get from Parts express use a M6 stud - very hard to get brass wood inserts for them. Right now the sub uses rubber feet.
So I think that for the current housing situation the center channel is scrapped. I just don't feel the need for it now.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.