WAW / FAST, Class D Boombox build
So a few months ago I decided I needed a sound system for the back yard for a major work project.
So I started looking for woofers that could go into about 1 ft^3...that were reasonably priced and had reasonable efficiency.
Found a Goldwood GW-10pc4 that seemed to simulate well in about that space. (ended up with about 1.2ft^3)
In parallel with that I took a look at 3" "fullrange" from here:
Resources - Woofer Selection Guide
Liked what I saw in the Faital 3FE25 that worked in a sealed section.
I did some power and efficiency calculations and came up with putting two 4R 3fe25's in series in a 0.2ft^3 to come close to the output of the Goldwood.
Using a 24V supply gave me about 60W PBTL for the 4R Goldwood and 36W BTL per side into 8R for the Faitals.
Next was the CAD designing for the box...Then bought a sheet of 3/4" Maple plywood, got out the tools of destruction and started to make sawdust.
I wanted the Faitals rear mounted and the Goldwood front mounted.
Some construction photos in this post...no screws or nails-just glue at this point...more later about crossovers and class D amps.
So a few months ago I decided I needed a sound system for the back yard for a major work project.
So I started looking for woofers that could go into about 1 ft^3...that were reasonably priced and had reasonable efficiency.
Found a Goldwood GW-10pc4 that seemed to simulate well in about that space. (ended up with about 1.2ft^3)
In parallel with that I took a look at 3" "fullrange" from here:
Resources - Woofer Selection Guide
Liked what I saw in the Faital 3FE25 that worked in a sealed section.
I did some power and efficiency calculations and came up with putting two 4R 3fe25's in series in a 0.2ft^3 to come close to the output of the Goldwood.
Using a 24V supply gave me about 60W PBTL for the 4R Goldwood and 36W BTL per side into 8R for the Faitals.
Next was the CAD designing for the box...Then bought a sheet of 3/4" Maple plywood, got out the tools of destruction and started to make sawdust.
I wanted the Faitals rear mounted and the Goldwood front mounted.
Some construction photos in this post...no screws or nails-just glue at this point...more later about crossovers and class D amps.
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I had these active crossover boards made for possible three way active speakers. They were designed to provide differential (balanced) outputs for TPA311x amplifiers.
Only needed a two way and combining the sub channel was easy when using differential input amplifiers.
(Grounds and power are not shown on the block diagram)
Only needed a two way and combining the sub channel was easy when using differential input amplifiers.
(Grounds and power are not shown on the block diagram)
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What is the XO frequency and what are the filter types and slopes? Would you by chance be selling the boards at some point?
370Hz is a very good match for most FAST projects I do with a 10 to 12in wide baffle and a 3.5in full range.
The lack of a proper cross over upstream of the TPA31xxD2 has always been something that has h forced me to go down the miniDSP route. It would be nice to have a simple active circuit. Having balanced outputs is a bonus for low noise.
370Hz is a very good match for most FAST projects I do with a 10 to 12in wide baffle and a 3.5in full range.
The lack of a proper cross over upstream of the TPA31xxD2 has always been something that has h forced me to go down the miniDSP route. It would be nice to have a simple active circuit. Having balanced outputs is a bonus for low noise.
What is the XO frequency and what are the filter types and slopes?
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LTspice shows crossover is at about 285 Hz. I had originally been focused at a frequency of about 350Hz but found the Faitals ran lower in the volume I had for them.
Exact choice of frequency has more to do with economically priced film caps from Digi-Key that fit their area on the board than with anything else.
Here is how it all fit on the back.
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Very nice. What is the circuit on the bottom right? A speaker protection relay?
I see you went with big fat PBTL for sub and Gen 0 board for stereo? I still use that Gen 0 board for most of my testing and initial characterization of speakers. Sounds great.
I see you went with big fat PBTL for sub and Gen 0 board for stereo? I still use that Gen 0 board for most of my testing and initial characterization of speakers. Sounds great.
Bottom board is 24V to +/- 15 for crossover board and +10V 2A for Bluetooth/USB/SDcard/FM/AUX input module.
Stereo board is DUG-3. Has mode and frequency options...running at 500KHz.
Stereo board is DUG-3. Has mode and frequency options...running at 500KHz.
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I bet this thing can get pretty loud. 105dB?
You did not run into any ground loop issues? It looks like your secondary power converter did a good isolation job.
You did not run into any ground loop issues? It looks like your secondary power converter did a good isolation job.
I would like to setup something to measure the output to see if I need to adjust the levels of either of the amps. Have a mic and SW...just need a laptop so I can go in the back yard and point it up.
🙂
🙂
Use REW software - works very well. Even a cheap mic is better than guessing. Look forward to your measurements.
I wish the Chinese would make a good XO board like yours and sell it for $30 built with parts 😀
I wish the Chinese would make a good XO board like yours and sell it for $30 built with parts 😀
A $15 Chinese made TPA3116D2 amp (the Ybdz "wiener") costs less than the BOM if you were to build it yourself and sounds very nice - even stock. Good and cheap.
I use these for my reference sound system - just minor upgrade with oscon caps and added bootstrap snubber. They sounded very good before the mods that I live with them stock for 9 months.
Still $15
http://m.aliexpress.com/item/1586764360.html?tracelog=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail
I use these for my reference sound system - just minor upgrade with oscon caps and added bootstrap snubber. They sounded very good before the mods that I live with them stock for 9 months.
Still $15
http://m.aliexpress.com/item/1586764360.html?tracelog=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail
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You did not run into any ground loop issues? It looks like your secondary power converter did a good isolation job.
Yes the +/-15 is isolated from the +24 and the +10 is also isolated from the +24 and the +/-15.
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