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Old 3rd February 2004, 07:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by SoundQuest



I wouldn't say my expectations were necessarily high for the 3", but I would say they were at least that of the myriad reviews I read on the W3871 before I purchased them. Still a pretty amazing 3" for the price despite its lack of detail in the uppermost frequencies (what my ears are used to). Since no one seems to think adding a tweeter will fix the problem I think I will leave it alone for now. However, I am convinced a notch filter (reccomended by many using the W3871) would bring some sonic improvement and smoothness to the driver at higher volumes. Anyone have a design? I am not literate (yet) when it comes to Electrical Engineering so if you could just spell out the parts instead just posting a schmatic that would be appreciated. Thanks.
I don't know that a tweeter wouldn't help, I'm just getting hung up on using the 871 as you're proposing. Did you see the other thread about the 3-way TB? There's a link to another site where someone built a 3-way using 2-8" woofs, the 4" as the mid and the little TB fabric dome tweeter.
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Old 3rd February 2004, 08:30 PM   #12
bgarcia is offline bgarcia  United States
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Default Have you been here...

http://home.new.rr.com/zaph/audio/audio-speaker11.html

See what he says about his notch filter, though you may need new cabinets.
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Old 5th February 2004, 12:43 AM   #13
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Does anyone know what parts to order from MCM to build John's notch filter for the W3871S found on his website at:
http://home.new.rr.com/zaph/audio/audio-speaker11.html

Also, I don't know how to read schematics so I get tripped up with John's instruction on how to build the filter exactly so anyone with insight here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 5th February 2004, 12:58 AM   #14
fireman is offline fireman  Canada
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Quote:
Originally posted by SoundQuest
Does anyone know what parts to order from MCM to build John's notch filter for the W3871S found on his website at:
http://home.new.rr.com/zaph/audio/audio-speaker11.html

Also, I don't know how to read schematics so I get tripped up with John's instruction on how to build the filter exactly so anyone with insight here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
As far as I am concerned, the hardest part to find for me was the toroid. After contacting Jonh - good luck in finding his email address - he told me it was readily available at Madisound. I'll order them as soon as I can finish working working on a non-DIY project of mine.

BTW, I have already built both the small and the tall version of the enclosures that can be found about half way down the page. I am presently playing them fullrange without the notch filter in order to break the drivers in. Their sound is quite pleasing already. I'm eager to see what the effect of the filter will be.
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Old 5th February 2004, 01:08 AM   #15
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Looking at the picture and description.

6.8 ohm non-inductive resistor (probably Mills)
3.3 mF metalized Polypropolene cap (maybe Hovland MusiCap)
.7 mH air core inductor

They're all wired in parallel, kinda side by side as it were and put in line with the wire leading from the input terminal to the positive terminal on the driver.
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Old 5th February 2004, 01:09 AM   #16
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Thanks Tim.
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Old 27th March 2006, 04:34 PM   #17
matos81 is offline matos81  Italy
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Quote:
Originally posted by Timn8ter
Looking at the picture and description.

6.8 ohm non-inductive resistor (probably Mills)
3.3 mF metalized Polypropolene cap (maybe Hovland MusiCap)
.7 mH air core inductor

They're all wired in parallel, kinda side by side as it were and put in line with the wire leading from the input terminal to the positive terminal on the driver.

Thank you, so the notch doesn't "touch" the negative terminal?

A question for TB W3871S:
Is it possible to add a 150 CAP (Electrolytic capacitor) doing a high-pass filter (150Hz)? Should I add a 6-7 ohm resistor in series?
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Old 27th March 2006, 04:49 PM   #18
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by matos81

Thank you, so the notch doesn't "touch" the negative terminal?

A question for TB W3871S:
Is it possible to add a 150 CAP (Electrolytic capacitor) doing a high-pass filter (150Hz)? Should I add a 6-7 ohm resistor in series?
Hi,

A) is true.

B) Yes it is possible. Though a series resistor is not a good idea.
A ~ 15R resistor to ground after the capacitor is a good idea.

/sreten.
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Old 27th March 2006, 05:08 PM   #19
matos81 is offline matos81  Italy
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Quote:
Originally posted by sreten


Hi,

A) is true.

B) Yes it is possible. Though a series resistor is not a good idea.
A ~ 15R resistor to ground after the capacitor is a good idea.

/sreten.

Sorry I'm noob :P. How to add a resistor to ground? I thought:
---------CAP----15R------ + terminal

---------------------------- - terminal

Is it wrong?
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