Hi
I thought that I would do a build log for my single box system designed to sit on top of the large fridge in our kitchen.
The project started, as I was fairly disappointed with the sound from my SONOS PLAY5. I had a pair of Jordan JXR6HD full range/wide range drivers, so I looked for some suitable bass drivers to match. I originally considered 4 x Aurasound NS3, but have settled on 2x Tang Band W5-1138SMF, largely due to the kind help of jReave - Many Thanks.
The system will be actively powered and will utilize the HIFIMEDIY DDX320 in 2.1 mode, and a connex power supply. This amp looks like it could be very special, it is direct digital input (I will feed it SPDIF from a SONOS CONNECT), and has a variable crossover from 80hz to 360hz, that will high pass for the Jordans, and low pass for the Tang Band woofers. The woofers will only be mono. There are various EQ settings that might be used to iron out any bugs. I have not taken into account any BSC. I am crossing my fingers that this will not be an issue, or it can be sorted with one of the preset EQs.
The cabinet will be 900mm x 216mm x 216mm and will be built with translaminated 18mm birch plywood.
The Jordans will be in a sealed enclosure of 1.9L
The 2x Tang Band W5-1138SMF will be in a vented enclosure of 17.5L GROSS. This volume will be reduced a bit by the ports (2x 50mm x 400mm), the drivers, and a small amount of bracing.
Here we go.
I thought that I would do a build log for my single box system designed to sit on top of the large fridge in our kitchen.
The project started, as I was fairly disappointed with the sound from my SONOS PLAY5. I had a pair of Jordan JXR6HD full range/wide range drivers, so I looked for some suitable bass drivers to match. I originally considered 4 x Aurasound NS3, but have settled on 2x Tang Band W5-1138SMF, largely due to the kind help of jReave - Many Thanks.
The system will be actively powered and will utilize the HIFIMEDIY DDX320 in 2.1 mode, and a connex power supply. This amp looks like it could be very special, it is direct digital input (I will feed it SPDIF from a SONOS CONNECT), and has a variable crossover from 80hz to 360hz, that will high pass for the Jordans, and low pass for the Tang Band woofers. The woofers will only be mono. There are various EQ settings that might be used to iron out any bugs. I have not taken into account any BSC. I am crossing my fingers that this will not be an issue, or it can be sorted with one of the preset EQs.
The cabinet will be 900mm x 216mm x 216mm and will be built with translaminated 18mm birch plywood.
The Jordans will be in a sealed enclosure of 1.9L
The 2x Tang Band W5-1138SMF will be in a vented enclosure of 17.5L GROSS. This volume will be reduced a bit by the ports (2x 50mm x 400mm), the drivers, and a small amount of bracing.
Here we go.
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Neat project. What are you using to provide the XO to the sub and high pass to the full range? This has always been an area lacking as a built in feature in class D amps. I have had to resort to miniDSP to handle this properly as all lower prices class D 2.1 amps have a dreadful low pass function for the sub and no high pass for the tops.
Hifimediy DDX320v2.3 - 2.1 Digital Amplifier
This is a 2.1 (stereo + mono bass channel) amplifier that takes a digital signal, coax or optical. The crossover frequency between stereo channels and bass can be set from 80 to 360hz or bypassed (requires remote which is not included). The amplifier can also be used as a stereo amplifier without crossover and without using the bass channel. The crossover is a preset filter in sta320, and it's 2nd order low pass and 1st order high pass. The crossover is default set at 80hz, also when the amp is in 2.0 mode.
This should be ideal for a FAST application.
This is a 2.1 (stereo + mono bass channel) amplifier that takes a digital signal, coax or optical. The crossover frequency between stereo channels and bass can be set from 80 to 360hz or bypassed (requires remote which is not included). The amplifier can also be used as a stereo amplifier without crossover and without using the bass channel. The crossover is a preset filter in sta320, and it's 2nd order low pass and 1st order high pass. The crossover is default set at 80hz, also when the amp is in 2.0 mode.
This should be ideal for a FAST application.
Is the high pass adjustable ? 80Hz is too low and will subject driver to too much cone excursion. If it can be set at 250Hz and as high as 400Hz that would be ideal. Currently it takes a miniDSP and two class D TPA3116 amps for me to do this for $150. I have infinitely selectable XO freq and slopes however.
OK. The school holidays are over and I have found some time to cut out the voids. 30kg of ply is now 12.3kg. Lots of jigsawing. The jigsaw is not a nice tool for elegant cutting, but all these cuts will be internal. I have done this with a CNC machine in the past, but it cost a lot of $£$£$£.
I made some pieces to form a central brace connecting the top to the bottom:
Some dry fitting:
I made some pieces to form a central brace connecting the top to the bottom:
Some dry fitting:
Instead of getting on with some work, I thought that I would start the laminating. This could take a while... I am doing one join at a time to reduce the chance of any slipping.
If interested, I am using a polyurethane glue. Apply to one side and clamp. It then foams and sets hard, with certain gap filling qualities. Very strong.
If interested, I am using a polyurethane glue. Apply to one side and clamp. It then foams and sets hard, with certain gap filling qualities. Very strong.
I have finished laminating all the central layers together. I have left the top and bottom off for the time being, so that I can clean up, drill holes for the wiring, and add felt lining.
Cleaned up.
Starting the mock up to check layout
I had thought that I was going to put the port openings on the back of the cabinet, but this was not possible due to the depth of the bass drivers. Placing them on the front will look neater, as I will be putting a grill on to hide the drivers.
All marked up now. I have drilled holes in all of the driver and port centres to guide the router, as the pencil lines will be lost when the sides are sanded smooth.
Cleaned up.
Starting the mock up to check layout
I had thought that I was going to put the port openings on the back of the cabinet, but this was not possible due to the depth of the bass drivers. Placing them on the front will look neater, as I will be putting a grill on to hide the drivers.
All marked up now. I have drilled holes in all of the driver and port centres to guide the router, as the pencil lines will be lost when the sides are sanded smooth.
Very nice. I love what you're doing with the enclosure. This gives me all kinds of ideas. Using the laminated side of the plywood as a decorative surface eliminates the need for veneer if prepped properly. I like it!
I also have a pair of JXR6HD that I have matched with a pair of JX150. I'll eventually be building a new enclosure for them -- definitely will be borrowing this idea.
I also have a pair of JXR6HD that I have matched with a pair of JX150. I'll eventually be building a new enclosure for them -- definitely will be borrowing this idea.
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