Very nice looking boxes. I can't imagine why those have higher WAF than the PVC pipes... 
RE making the grills: for the scheme you describe polycarbonate would be ideal, but frankly just about any plastic you can scrounge would work. Alternatively, you could make a hardwood or metal frame, wrap the cloth around it, and jam it in. The easiest thing is to make a grill from masonite (etc) with appropriate cutouts, and use those little plastic socket things to hold it on.
RE making the grills: for the scheme you describe polycarbonate would be ideal, but frankly just about any plastic you can scrounge would work. Alternatively, you could make a hardwood or metal frame, wrap the cloth around it, and jam it in. The easiest thing is to make a grill from masonite (etc) with appropriate cutouts, and use those little plastic socket things to hold it on.
They're 4-1/2" wide, 6-15/16 high, 4-7/16 deep.
The sides, top, and bottom are 3/8" material.
The front/back are 1/2" MDF.
There are front and back 1/4" hardboard "cleats" rabbeted into the sides, top and bottom of each unit.
So that should be a volume of .046 cubic feet. A little less due to the hardboard cleat, but not much.
They're sealed, and the boxes aren't ideal (they're way oversized at .046 cubic feet and WinISD called for .014). The enclosures are still large for a ported alignment (WinISD calls for .027 cubic feet). I'd get a 1db hump at 150 if I ported.
One of the speakers I enjoyed listening to most was the LS35A. I had a pair for all of a year or so and really enjoyed them immensely. The thing I think I liked most was the laid-back nature of the speakers. They were never "in your face." I was able to listen to them ALL DAY LONG and never felt fatigued. I've always tried to achieve the same thing in speakers I've built.
You guys are going to rip me apart for this, but... When it came time for this project, I started looking at google images for measured responses of the LS3/5A.
And playing with WinISD, I came to the conclusion that a 4-Ohm Faital 3FE22 in an oversized sealed enclosure (provided I use a sub, of course) may approach the laid-back-ness of the Rogers.
I told you I was nuts.
So basically in the 200-1000 Hz range, I was attempting to make this speaker a little less "forward."
So I built boxes approx. 3x larger than was required, figuring I could always add something inside the box to eat volume. After all, I'm trying to have fun and learn something, too.
I like what I hear.
They don't distort even at higher SPL (I'm not going crazy here but sometimes like to turn it up a bit).
Pretty thrilled with these things.
Well the first thing I'm going to try is perforated plastic. This is just plastic sheet with holes in it. Almost like perforated metal speaker grills you saw on old ADS speakers, or the Radio Shack Minimus.
So if I can find some suitable plastic, I'll just cut it to size (a little larger than required), and see if I can bow it into those gaps. And then watch to make sure it doesn't take a set and want to pop-out.
I've found perforated plastic at McMaster but would like to find something with more holes (I think they call it larger open area).
I'm in no real rush, the wife seems okay with the way these look.
I've done preliminary research and concluded that my two distros would require a higher level of Linux understanding and skills to get Alsaequal running smoothly with squeezelite. I think someone is working on a user-friendly way of incorporating it into PiCorePlayer.
Brightness is usually caused by bass falloff due to non infinitely wide baffle. Use a baffle step correction filter. It attenuates the highs to allow more balanced bass.
Use about 1mH inductor in parallel with 4.7R to 10R 10w resistor. Out that in series with amp and +ve lead on driver. Adjust the R to taste. Overall sensitivity will go down but brightness will be cured. Bass sensitivity will not be affected.
So overall sensitivity will be rated minus 5dB or so or 85dB overall at 100Hz.
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