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Old 16th February 2015, 08:48 PM   #1
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Does anyone have some positive/negative to share about these?
I could be interested in the "Classic 10", the one without whizzer cone or plug.
Could be great if as good as David says.
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Old 16th February 2015, 11:24 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bindaspeak View Post
Does anyone have some positive/negative to share about these?
A search here should turn up enough reading to amuse you for a while.
I think the experts on speakers and enclosures here, find the specs and consistency of the AN offerings to be frustrating to work with.
Planet 10 (Dave) gave me help a few years ago, suggesting a better port tuning for the AN 2.8 enclosure.
My AN10s sound pretty good to me, and are efficient and cheap....but I don' t know much!
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Old 17th February 2015, 01:54 AM   #3
chrisb is online now chrisb  Canada
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John - you still running those, or have you obsessed onwards to something else?
I certainly have in the intervening few years
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Old 17th February 2015, 02:28 AM   #4
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Sorry for the digression...
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Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
John - you still running those, or have you obsessed onwards to something else?
I certainly have in the intervening few years
Yup, they are still in the living room, attached to the Chinese EL34 'kit' amp.
I have a speaker project waiting for boxes to be built -DTQWT by Gravesen - perhaps later this 'winter'.
The biamped (myRef+chipamp) Fonkens with woofers are also occupying space there - it gets cramped!
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Old 17th February 2015, 10:15 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by VictoriaGuy View Post
Sorry for the digression...

Yup, they are still in the living room, attached to the Chinese EL34 'kit' amp.
I have a speaker project waiting for boxes to be built -DTQWT by Gravesen - perhaps later this 'winter'.
The biamped (myRef+chipamp) Fonkens with woofers are also occupying space there - it gets cramped!
AN and DTQWT by Troels. I listen both, AN much better.
Chinese EL34 kit, good for chassis and transformers
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Old 17th February 2015, 11:21 AM   #6
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Sound much better when you treat the cones.

Good basket, copper caps to reduce distortion.

The cones are poor and have a lot of resonances. Try simple mod podge treatment for distinct improvement in sound.
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Old 17th February 2015, 12:33 PM   #7
Bigun is offline Bigun  Canada
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I have not heard the whizzer-less drivers. I have an AN 15 with whizzer and phase plug. I have applied a small treatment around the back edge of the cone and whizzer as recommended by Bud Purvine (of EnABL fame). It's a very good sounding speaker. It's a big driver and not suited for near-field listening on-axis. You need to be a few metres away for on-axis or be slightly off-axis for the treble to sound 'sorted out'. I like it a lot and it is my main speaker in my living room for casual music listening.

I have never seen modge podge recommended for the AN cones.
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Old 17th February 2015, 07:06 PM   #8
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Would a water/thinned out puzzlecoat help ?
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Old 25th February 2015, 02:06 AM   #9
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I have a AN Super 8 Cast Frame into a Monitor MKII gabinets (43L) built strictly according to AN site instructions, that is, without any treatment, only the inner lining damping materials and the result is disappointing

I play with a DIY Tubelab SSE with about 8 WRMS per channel and there is no bass. The medium frequencies is so high and cracked and the top end is weak, dull.

I am open to suggestions to improve my speakers.
Thanks.
Antonio

(I apologize if my English is not clear)
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Old 25th February 2015, 09:28 AM   #10
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Depends what you mean by 'improve' since this covers a multitude of different possibilities.

For starters, if the AN Cast 8's published specs are correct, I'm not surprised it sounds lousy. I don't have CSA's venting arrangements for that box, but from eyeballing the photographs on the website, looks to be about 70mm diameter, with no duct. So call it 70mm x 19mm; I doubt that's exact, but it's near enough to be going on with since major changes would be required to box and venting to obtain any significant change to the general response shape / behaviour; smaller alterations will effectively be window-dressing.

Yellow in the anechoic sim. below assumes a voltage source -worst-case baseline for this combination. Your SET amp likely has an output impedance of between 2.5 - 4ohms. Blue indicates with 2.5ohms added, pink with 4ohms added. Better, but not all that distinguished.

The excessive midrange / HF output is due to this being a very low Q driver, with a naturally rising response above about 1KHz. Add baffle-step loss into this, and you'll have very weak bass with a 'screechy' midband / higher frequencies. 'can't comment on the top end per se; that likely will depend on what you're using as the basis for your comparison. It's been a while since I heard a pair of the Cast8s, and I didn't think they lacked too much in terms of output up to about 15KHz (although in a qualitative sense I didn't think they were great), but it does drop off above that.

Assuming you want to stick with your existing boxes, about the best you'll be able to do is stick a shelving filter on them -both to compensate for baffle-step and to an extent, the rising midband / HF. You don't want to go too far with the latter though since a flat on-axis response with a wideband driver of this type generally results in lousy output off-axis since they have limited dispersion -that's one reason they often have a rising HF response in the first place (to compensate for this & make them more generally useable over a wider axis). Try paralleling a 1.2mH inductor with a 3ohm resistor & place in series with the driver. You'll lose some sensitivity, but it should help rebalance things. To make significant improvements though in terms of LF output etc., you'll need a different enclosure -a large back-horn variation would be the obvious choice since it needs all the help it can get on the bottom end.
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