Hey guys,
on myminifactory.com, we recently uploaded a printable very cheap speaker:
Download Hex Speaker (Mono) by LeonSingle - MyMiniFactory.com
So right now i must confess that the accoustic of this is not the best, but I was thinking that maybe I could find some enthusiasts on this forum who would want to have a look at it or customize it, maybe try other speakers etc...
Anyway the STL file is available for free so if it can be useful for you in anyway, feel free to download it!
on myminifactory.com, we recently uploaded a printable very cheap speaker:
Download Hex Speaker (Mono) by LeonSingle - MyMiniFactory.com
So right now i must confess that the accoustic of this is not the best, but I was thinking that maybe I could find some enthusiasts on this forum who would want to have a look at it or customize it, maybe try other speakers etc...
Anyway the STL file is available for free so if it can be useful for you in anyway, feel free to download it!
Better driver and larger enclosure?
Every driver has what could be considered an ideal enclosure for it. If you want anything resembling bass, you have to allow for the driver to 'breathe'. Some drivers are best in sealed, some vented, some exotic. Just like certain tires are meant for certain cars/trucks and driving conditions.
Every driver has what could be considered an ideal enclosure for it. If you want anything resembling bass, you have to allow for the driver to 'breathe'. Some drivers are best in sealed, some vented, some exotic. Just like certain tires are meant for certain cars/trucks and driving conditions.
With only around 1W of clean output and a teeny driver, there's not much you can do. It's debatable whether spending any money at all makes sense without upgrading the amp first - it's a better project for scavenged drivers, maybe.
I happen to have a simulation of Faital 3FE20 saved that works fine when adjusted to a 9.5cm square baffle (but need to double-ish or more the length and add a port hole tuned for 100Hz). Uses a passive filter, image attached. I certainly wouldn't spend that much on a speaker with so little output, but there it is.
In general, avoid making the front shape any closer to a concentric circle around the driver than you have to. A square with a chamfered edge would be better than what you've got there, and maximize the internal volume too.
P.S. You could just put in one of the LM386 guitar amp designs and a guitar jack with the speaker you've got now and call it a day - should work great. I wouldn't be surprised if that already exists in 3D printer land, though.
I happen to have a simulation of Faital 3FE20 saved that works fine when adjusted to a 9.5cm square baffle (but need to double-ish or more the length and add a port hole tuned for 100Hz). Uses a passive filter, image attached. I certainly wouldn't spend that much on a speaker with so little output, but there it is.
In general, avoid making the front shape any closer to a concentric circle around the driver than you have to. A square with a chamfered edge would be better than what you've got there, and maximize the internal volume too.
P.S. You could just put in one of the LM386 guitar amp designs and a guitar jack with the speaker you've got now and call it a day - should work great. I wouldn't be surprised if that already exists in 3D printer land, though.
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If one is going to 3d print you want to do something that is basically impossible to make using conventional methods. Like a very complex BLH or TH. Jennygirl asked this question sometime ago as she has her own 3d printer capable of a 24in cube workpiece.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/246722-mini-3d-printed-tapped-horn.html
The thread stalled out but the capability is there.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/246722-mini-3d-printed-tapped-horn.html
The thread stalled out but the capability is there.
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