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Old 23rd June 2014, 03:59 PM   #1
M42 is offline M42  Canada
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Hi All,

I have recently received my FrugelHorn 3 flatpack and Alpair 7.3s from Planet 10. I'm looking forward to starting my build and hearing them in action! The assembly is certainly straight forward, however I have a question or two. I'm hoping to veneer my kit and I'm wondering if I should be considering any treatment to the inside of the cabinets before I seal them up. Can/should the interior be painted/varnished to seal the surfaces? I've also read in previous posts etc that some have used silicone sealer on the inside cabinet joints. I plan to glue the cabinets only, and not use screws at all. Any advice would be appreciated.

Kind regards,

Jeff
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Old 23rd June 2014, 04:33 PM   #2
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Screws not necessary' neither is silicone sealer if the box has been built properly, although there's no harm in it. The interior does not need painting or varnishing, although again, there's no harm in doing so if you wish.
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Old 23rd June 2014, 04:49 PM   #3
M42 is offline M42  Canada
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Hi Scottmoose,

Thanks for the information, it's much appreciated.

Jeff
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Old 24th June 2014, 06:35 PM   #4
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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I've built a few pair of these, and could offer a word or two of advice:

-If you're wanting to finish the exposed area of rear mouth, it's probably easier to do that before assembly, unless you're planning on a textured finish such as stone effects, etc.

Mask off all the dadoes, and outline/mask the glue surface areas on blank side where the back and internal panels contact, then apply your finish materials.

-If you have adequate supply of clamps and cauls, the kit is designed to be assembled without the need for nails or screws, but to be honest, it can speed assembly if you don't mind the required filling, etc. Since I almost always veneer my builds, I'll often take that approach.

With adequate clamping, liberal use of decent yellow wood glue on both dado surfaces should be more than sufficient. Just be sure to install all the damping pads and fibre fill before attaching the second side, and if the driver you've selected is one that requires extra fill below the driver, use some type of nylon mesh, or male velcro strips to ensure it stays in place.
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Old 24th June 2014, 11:39 PM   #5
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One other hint:
If you have the woodworking ability and tools, make the top removable. It makes adjusting the stuffing easier than working through the speaker hole.
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Old 25th June 2014, 04:56 PM   #6
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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True that, Ed - but I think Jeff has one of the P10 flatpack kits, which I happen to know weren't engineered with a removable top - although I've thought about making that revision.
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Old 29th June 2014, 12:27 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
True that, Ed - but I think Jeff has one of the P10 flatpack kits, which I happen to know weren't engineered with a removable top - although I've thought about making that revision.
I think that would be a good revision. I don't like taking out and replacing the speaker to get inside. All it takes is just one slip or the screwdriver or allen wrench...
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