Chinese/Taiwan 5” Dual Cone Speakers

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Hi Guys! after finishing my build with the 4" dual cone speaker. I thought it would be nice to see what the difference would be with the 5" speaker. So I bought a pair! :)

I thought it would be a good idea to begin with a new thread to keep discussions separate.

so what I'm not looking for is a paint by numbers job, but since those worksheets for math cad are no longer available and I very much s*ck at math, maybe you guys have some suggestions?
 

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Hi,

I bought a pair too because I was quite please with the 4" version. Initial testing suggests there are 2 peaks occurring at 2 different frequencies. I will publish the results over the next few days.
It seems that the Alpair A10 has high frequencies peaks above 6-8khz and users do not use notches to suppress them. Is this true? Can anyone hear these high frequencies harshness? Can anyone/users comment? I saw the A10 FR curve at the Brine Acoustics' website.
 
Well open baffle looks cool and there seem to be good resultsbut wouldnt be all to practical for me, personally I guess I'll stick with a TL. Although I might try it anyway.

If you don't mind me asking, where do you buy your Taiwanese drivers?

Bought them on eBay but if ive also seen them on aliexpress. I have no idea where they actualy come from but they seem very nice quality. Although mine came with some minor damages from the shipment...

Ttan98, what sort of cabinet do you use?
 
Well open baffle looks cool and there seem to be good resultsbut wouldnt be all to practical for me, personally I guess I'll stick with a TL. Although I might try it anyway.



Bought them on eBay but if ive also seen them on aliexpress. I have no idea where they actualy come from but they seem very nice quality. Although mine came with some minor damages from the shipment...

Ttan98, what sort of cabinet do you use?

I may have to build one myself(difficult for me to buy one off the shelf, e.g. from Parts Exp. from where I live), I will be using it with a woofer/subwoofer in a compact size cabinet.
 

GM

Member
Joined 2003
I 'ran some numbers' in the wee hours, but the MLTL I'd build was so tall, large for the driver size [~2.7955 ft^3/79.158 L net], I figured it would be dismissed out of hand. Looks good in a Fonken style cab though, so figured Dave or you would submit those. BIB is an option also.

Note that the specs work well enough in BR, MLTL RS 40-1354 cab alignments, so if anyone is interested in maybe a sonic upgrade.............

Note too that there's a significant difference in cab alignments if T/S Vs Mms, BL specs are used, so recommend using T/S to hopefully ensure the cab doesn't wind up too small.

GM
 
Since nobody seems to have offered anything, here's an MLTL tuned for some gain through the midbass region.

L = 35in
CSA = 88.5625in^2
Zd = 7in
Vent 13in^2 at the bottom
Stuff 0.75lbs ft^3 & adjust as desired.

Ok being from the metric system a friend and me tried to 'translate' these numbers..

am I correct:

L=Lenght=88,9cm
CSA=?=571,36983cm2 (seen the cab from the top about 20x25cm?)
Zd=?=17,78cm
Vent=Vent=83,8708cm2 (about 9x9cm?)

if i'm right this seems to be bit large... at least large for what i'm used to have in the living room.
 
Yes, except of course the 20x25 and 9x9 are too small.

The stuffing density: 0.75lbs ft^3 = 340.1943 gr/0.02831685 m^3

FWIW, I've been using this little program since it came out with nary a mistake [when I input the right numbers of course!]: Convert for Windows - joshmadison.com

Right, and as I noted, why I didn’t bother to post my much bigger one. Bottom line, driver specs dictate the size required for a driver to reproduce ‘x’ amount of bass at ‘y’ tuning [Fb], so the more you shrink the cab, the less bass you have. Factor in that tiny drivers need all the acoustic gain one can afford in size just to get any real bass, it can be all out of proportion to the driver size; which of course makes sense as the larger the driver, the more air it can move for a given power.

GM
 
In dutch we have an expression which translates best as rocking the boat but if you would translate it directly it would be "swearing in the church"

Dont want to get off topic but...:

Could one keep the cab smaller while using some kind of filter to push up the lower freqs?

How do those hifi manufacturers make those very sensitive small speaker cabs which blow you away (with to much bass)?
 
FWIW, I've been using this little program since it came out with nary a mistake [when I input the right numbers of course!]: Convert for Windows - joshmadison.com

+1 -probably from your tip. Great little program.

Could one keep the cab smaller while using some kind of filter to push up the lower freqs?

You could use a very small sealed box & Eq it (preferably digitally). Power handling will be crippled, but it's not impossible providing you listen quietly on undemanding material (i.e. with little LF dynamic range).

How do those hifi manufacturers make those very sensitive small speaker cabs which blow you away (with to much bass)?

They can't and don't. They are obliged to operate within the laws of physics, same as the rest of us. Hoffman's iron law: pick any two of these. You can't have all three:

-Small size
-High efficiency
-Low frequency extension

Some might deliberately engineer in a peak at Fb to give the impression of more bass than is actually the case. Not a good idea.
 
IINM, Mr Hoffman's observation was based in the very early days of the "acoustic suspension" (much smaller simple sealed enclosures and often woofer dimensions than previously) revolution that was enabled by the advent (so to speak) of affordable higher powered SS amps with high damping factors and excellent sonics

well - if you remember the big SS amps of the late 60s early 70s, 2 / 3 ain't bad (Crown DC300, BGW 750 anyone? - no? :D)

so in other words, unless you're married to tube amps in the single digit or low teens power level, sensitivity is often less of an issue than enclosure volume and driver excursion limits - sure with enough horsepower you can EQ a 4" driver down to sub30Hz without clipping the amp, but not without substantial risk to the driver
 
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Could one keep the cab smaller while using some kind of filter to push up the lower freqs?

How do those hifi manufacturers make those very sensitive small speaker cabs which blow you away (with to much bass)?
It's called a Linkwitz transform (LT). When to use in a sealed speaker high Q? It's needed when the speaker is too small and Q>1. You need an extra power amp and a LT circuit, as was mentioned. :D
Links e.g., Linkwitz Transform Subwoofer Equaliser
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/256977-2-way-wiht-linkwitz-transform.html#post3943704
 
Freq. Response of Chinese 5in Full Ranger

Hi,
As promised earlier find attached the freq. response of my newly acquired Full Range 5" driver. The images are self explanatory.
The peak at 4Khz maybe a little worrying and comments anyone. Otherwise it seems quite good, the spl is about 89-90db, compared it against GR Research M130 which I know is easy to drive has about 89dB.
Looking forward to use them in a 2way speakers, with a helper woofer.
 

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