well, it's not unknown for a low powered solid state amp to damage drivers when driven hard into clipping, so that's no guarantee of protection - there is it the old light bulb trick often used for tweeter protection, but you'll have to do your own research on determining the values
of course if you're talking OB with a small FR driver, such a system would normally be assumed to include a supporting woofer, in which case a HP filter for the small driver will reduce the energy content over the small driver's operational bandwidth
of course if you're talking OB with a small FR driver, such a system would normally be assumed to include a supporting woofer, in which case a HP filter for the small driver will reduce the energy content over the small driver's operational bandwidth
The TPA3110 class D amp works with supply voltages as low as 5 volts. One could calculate what the max voltage that the driver can handle and use a variable voltage power supply set at the max safe voltage. Even if amp clips, safe level is never exceeded. Assuming safe level is at least 5 volts.
Nice amp - probably cost you $700 in parts to build? Try the TPA3110D2 for $10 and see if you can tell the difference in sound quality. I am not kidding that $10 amp sounds very good and it costs less than the electric bill from running your F5 for a week. 
. At least as an experiment you have not much to lose and you may end up saving your driver and the environment. Alternatively, try the TPa3116d2 YJ blue board for $20 and it even sounds better with more power - although doesn't sound like you need it since you don't want to blow your driver.
. At least as an experiment you have not much to lose and you may end up saving your driver and the environment. Alternatively, try the TPa3116d2 YJ blue board for $20 and it even sounds better with more power - although doesn't sound like you need it since you don't want to blow your driver.
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once you hear the full-ranger relieved of the heavy duty in the bottom few octaves, particularly in an OB where it's very easy to exceed designed X-Max, I think you'll understand why
if you have a spare grunt amp for the bottom (120-150W wouldn't hurt), and can institute input level controls on both amps, passive line level / active can be much cheaper to experiment with and implement, and many would argue surpasses passive speaker level XO in sonic transparency
if you have a spare grunt amp for the bottom (120-150W wouldn't hurt), and can institute input level controls on both amps, passive line level / active can be much cheaper to experiment with and implement, and many would argue surpasses passive speaker level XO in sonic transparency
Agree with Chrisb on bi-amps and active crossover. It lets you change and experiment with XO frequency and slopes. It takes a lot of playing with to get just right and I can imagine what a pain that would be with passive speaker level XO's. I got a miniDSP and two class D amps all for under $130 and it is a game changer - and I will never look back.
Mybe you right, but I love my F5 that I build for 100$. Now I have TDA and the sound is niceNice amp - probably cost you $700 in parts to build? Try the TPA3110D2 for $10 and see if you can tell the difference in sound quality. I am not kidding that $10 amp sounds very good and it costs less than the electric bill from running your F5 for a week.
Thanks I try this.
now I have 4 amplifier: 2 for the 15" speaker with active low pass filter, normally the FR have filter? If so I need more active filter? It change the sound quality?
I agree with you that the FR not need this 200Hz<
Passive filter?
Thanks
you right
. I don’t want to go to DSP, but I have active filter with 4 amps.Ok so I understand that I need XO for the FR:
1)active: the OPAMP change the quality sound!
2)passive?
Thanks
sorry 500uf cap
how??I blew the 4 Ω- 6 W speakers that I found a month ago in the garbage!
Now I put some 4 Ω -10 W that won't break !
Below there's a 10 " in U-Frame ( it happens everytime I don't want to make the box
And yes, the crossover does the job of "equalizer".
( just 33 uF on the FR)
on 4ohm FR you need 500uf cap for 150hz HPF !
with 33uf you cut >1KHz
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If you use a high quality active XO or DSP with high quality ADC and DAC's you really won't notice any SQ being "harmed". There are purists out there who won't put anything but a plain copper wire between the their source-amp-speakers but think about all the op amps,ADC's, DAC's, that were used in the mixing and mastering consoles. If you go to vinyl records, even those have an RIAA EQ curve applied via op amp.
Placement of the speaker in the room and native room acoustics accounts for large part of the the sound quality, followed by the speakers themselves, then the amp, then the electronics upstream of the amp. I think if you are worrying about op amps now, it is insignificant compared to the others.
Placement of the speaker in the room and native room acoustics accounts for large part of the the sound quality, followed by the speakers themselves, then the amp, then the electronics upstream of the amp. I think if you are worrying about op amps now, it is insignificant compared to the others.
Oh yes ! I rely on woofer's natural decay and for a 25 cm it's just that range for ending pistonic ...ehm behaviour
And as Inductor - Who else ?!? might have indicated a suited value for lowpassing ( for a 15 " )... I put a similar value.
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