|4th April 2014, 11:18 PM||#11|
Join Date: Mar 2014
I am planning on using the kicker CS series speakers. A friend of a friend is a kicker dealer and I can get them for about 40% off. I was wanting to build three different boom boxes, a large one with the CS693, medium one with the CS65, and a smaller one with the CS4. (NOTE: i am talking about the CS, not the CSS. The CS have a built in tweeter)
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CS Series | KICKER
|5th April 2014, 01:46 PM||#12|
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Anchorage AK
i would really consider the ks, at least for the smaller one. they are made more for working off head unit power effectively
|7th April 2014, 05:03 PM||#13|
Join Date: Feb 2013
If you're still struggling for ideas, I've concocted the following enclosure for 6 x 9s. Externals are 1/4 inch birch ply, internals (ports and braces) are 1/8 inch birch ply. Line the insides with open cell foam about 1/2" thick. Tuning frequency is about 50Hz. Box volume is an educated guess at around 15 litres. The design allows you to play with port area, length and volume to a certain extent though you'll need to work out your own part sizes.
Use a 4th order filter somewhere in the upper 40s for best performance. You can probably find circuit schematics to build your own after the pre-amp stage.
You can add a baffle backer if you want to recess mount the speaker, though it might interfere with grille attachment.
I constructed a mini 5 litre 65Hz version for a Kenwood KFC 1350s whizzer cone 'coaxial' and it sounded quite good but a bit 'boomy' as I needed more sound deadener.
If you're not sure how it all fits together, ask me.
If you really need a cut sheet
Recommended assembly order is to start aligning the baffle with one of the wide sides.
Then attach a narrow side
Then the other wide side
Glue two of the ports in place
Add the final narrow side
Glue in the final two ports
Shunt in the reinforcement
Add the two back braces
Add foam to the back and rear chambers, leaving space around the ports and holes to help air circulate.
Glue on the back. If you have some long clamps, they are good for holding the back in place while it dries.
Add the front braces
Add foam to the front chamber.
If the 6 x 9s have no foam rubber gasket you can use a ring of 1/16" closed cell construction foam rubber to seal.
Add speaker connectors of your choice.
Use PL expanding glue if you can get it as it is the easiest glue to make air tight. (Good old Bill Fitzmaurice style).
Best results are when you be patient and wait for the glue to dry!
Use good ply not flaky crap that B&Q has the audacity to charge £20 a sheet for even 1/4 inch!
I haven't built this enclosure yet as I've run out of wood but it'll have to be tested on my budget Nikkai 6 x 9s at some point!
Oops I forgot, the back braces should be 4 inches from the sides (3 inches between brace centers) and so they sit between the 6 holes on the reinforcement. Holes in the back braces are centred 2" from the edges. You may not really need holes in the braces but extra circulation of air can't hurt.
Last edited by TimLewis; 7th April 2014 at 05:11 PM.
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